Motorcraft Autospark ingition control module

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firesean3532

New member
Hello all I'm pretty new to this forum. Just got an 1984 CJ7 with a 258 in it. TO give a little background on it. It has a rebuilt motor. New 4 speed. I have replaced the Top, Bikini Top, Duster, New U Joints, New Weber Carb, New output Transfer Case yoke, New Battery, New Negative cable, New coil, New non points distributor, New Spark Plugs, and now a new Motorcraft AutoSpark Ignition Module.
Now my question. Is there a more reliable ignition Module than the Motorcraft Autospark? Do I need to worry about doing the Nutter Bypass?

The problem that I am having is that the Jeep starts, and runs well until warm. Then It cuts off if its at an idle and will not restart for a while. When the jeep isnt starting there is no spark going from the coil, hence the coil replacement. Is there a way to get rid of the electronics without much money or too awful much effort? I though that was what the Nutter bypass did.
Thanks in advanced for the assistance
 
Thanks for that link Steady.Foot. If'n I can get outta this welfare situation I'm in I would like to update the ignition on 'Black Betty'
 
Hei distributors are in just about every junk yard in America, and are very cheap. if you are on a budget as I was, look there. I got mine for free. One wire hook up, no more control modules or external coils, hook it up and go.
 

Alright and update. Still having intermittent starting problems. Drove her the other day. I started and stopped the engine several times. No problems. The next morning wouldn't start no spark. I have replaced new. Spark pugs, Plug wires, distributor internals (Hei) auto spark, new coil (not installed yet). Used. Steering column, coil (installed), and I have done the nutter bypass. Need help. Getting ready to send it to the shop!!!!! Please
 
check your ground wires on the engine, also. make sure they are all good and maybe add an extra one to it just for hte heck of it.
 

to me this kinda sounds like the coil is getting hot. "heat sink" is what I think they call it, the coil gets hot and loses its ability to deliver full 12 volts at all times, (as I understand it anyway). I read that you have installed a used coil, but have a new one not installed yet? I would install the new one and see what happens. I had a coil issue like this a few summers ago, but mine would cut off as I was driving, and after sitting a few minutes would start back up and I was on my way until it did it again. A new coil solved the issue.
 
I agree with the HEI upgrade however, check the wiring to the coil. One of the wires that goes to the firewall from the coil could be a resistor wire. It tends to break continuity when it heats up and give you a good signal when cold.

Sent from my iPad using Jeepz
 
I think the resistor wire was used on older points ignitions to drop voltage as to not fry the points, usually only a issue when going from points to electronic ignition. His being a 85, I doubt he has the resistor wire. Good point though, and I may be incorrect.
 

What is the object on the passenger side wheel well. It has several connectors. I have now replaced the distributor cap. A brand new coil. New plug and distributor wires. I'm going to replace the engine bay wiring harness due to WOW. So new items are auto spark, plugs, distributor internals, distributor cap, plug wires, coil, used steering column, and nutter bypass
 
Dude, im about out of ideas as far as it being ignition problem. What year is the new column, Maybe go ahead and check for a resistor wire from the coil to ignition, it should have a cloth around it instead of just rubber. what does everyone think of this possibly being too much fuel pressure and flooding? or vapor lock
 
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My 81 CJ7 had the electronic ignition from the factory and it did have the resistor wire in the harness that I've replaced after having similar problems and fixed the issue. I have replaced it with an HEI awhile back and never looked back.

Sent from my iPad using Jeepz
 

I have the harness most of the way in. I have a new Hei distributor from summit. But I have to find a hot wit to go to the distributor lol.
 
Hot wire:: your old system had a coil, that coil should have two terminals one + hot, - ground. use the hot wire off the old coil to the power on the hei, should be all you need. There is another plug on the HEI for a tach if you have one, should be green wire I think. If you get no power with that try grounding the - wire from your old coil.
 
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