May be coming in to funds to rebuild my T 18

[Turbogus]

That's great information flatie, I'm hooking this to my Dana 20.
I brought the case of my 1980 to work, going to use some engine degreaser on it and see if I can get that dang shaft out at AAMCO. They were kind enough to get me started on this by pulling the front and rear bearings for me for free. That is turning out to be less of a challenge than this dang shaft it is IN there. I'm doing this just in case the deal on that 1968 T18 goes south.

 

[Turbogus]

[FONT=Tahoma, Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]I am a bit dubious about swapping in an older design of the venerable T18 into my 1978 CJ5, not to say that newer is always better, but this has me concerned.[/FONT]

 

[Turbogus]

I cleaned up the case inside and out with engine degreaser before taking it over to our local AAMCO to get that dang shaft out. They said they'll hot tank it for me too. Be ready in a couple of days, in case that CL T18 in Portland is no good.

 

[Turbogus]

The local AAMCO shop did me right again, they were able to get that dang shaft out by pushing it in ?!? Apparently on this T18 the Reverse Idler Shaft is not tapered. They pulled it for free!
Headed to Portland tomorrow to take a look at a '68 T18 that looks prettry clean. May be the answer as some of the gears in mine are compromised.

 

[Turbogus]

Picked up the '68 T18 and after an inspection I bought it for the asking price of $150. My 1980 T18 I was looking at abount $250 just for the gears + a T18 shifter cane THEN converting it to my Dana 20.

 

[flatie46]

Sounds like you did good.

 

[Turbogus]

So far so good flatie. I'm going to check at Gary's shop to see if he has a clamshell bearing puller that I can borrow. I don't really want to buy one, even if it's a deal at HF for this one time use, and I think I've pestered Phil at Aamco enough by now.

 

[flatie46]

You may not need one, I didn't. Mine came out with a little pecking here and there with a brass punch and small hammer. Pull the front bearing support, tail shaft and snap rings first and see. Direct your taps either on the solid id part of the bearing or the outter part that rests in the case. If it don't move with light taps then you prob should get the puller. I had one on hand but the bearing moved well without it.

Disclaimer to whoever may read this post. I am not saying hit the bearing hard in the middle where the balls are therfore damaging it Gentle taps where the press fit areas are.

 

[Turbogus]

Thanks flatie, by now I've got a couple of brass drifts and that 5 lb. cross pien has served me well over the years. I'll give it a shot once I get some help getting it out of the truck and onto a freight cart where I can begin working on it. Unrelated to this transmission I hurt my lower back at work so I'm taking it easy for a couple of days.

 

[flatie46]

Yea take it easy, hope you get better soon.

You won't need a big hammer, if they don't come out with light taps from a small one go get the puller. Back in '68 they may have had tighter tolerances. Lol

 

[Turbogus]

With the help of my janitor honcho at work we got this '68 T18 up on the freight cart and it langushed there all week. If I can remove the rest of the stuff from this cart I 'm hoping to degrease the case on this too, like I did the '80 case before I begin work.

 

[Turbogus]

Got the outer case degreased with Gunk Engine Degreaser and it worked pretty good. Moved the transmission back to the tall freight cart for disassembly, got the shifter off and saved the pin in a ziplock bag, the shift control housing is off and it's bolts are baggied. The snap ring came off with ease (by surprise) and just for fun I thought I'd try using those brass drifts and my 5 lb. cross pien hammer to remove the bearings. This was impossible on the '80 trans. clearances were just too darn tight. Now with theis rebuilt '68 so far the front bearing is halfway out ~ took a break from the tedious tap tap tapping until later this morning but it sure is good to see some progress.