Manual Choke
- Thread starter xxjas12xx
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Tug-n-pull
New member
While on the subject How do I adjust the electric choke on the motor craft 2150. any ideas. tug
gunner
New member
There is a little plastic cover on the passenger side of the carb. Loosen the screws that hold down the metal retainer and you twist the cover back or forward depending on if you want it to be more open or more closed. There should be little marks on the cap to indicate more or less.
I got sick of screwing with the auto choke on my 2150 6 years ago and ripped it off and put in a manual cable choke. The cable cost 6 bucks at checker auto and the rest was just putting it in and making sure all the vaccums were plugged.
I ran the cable through the fire wall plug, mounted it to the screw hole mounts for the old choke on the side of the carb, ran the cable through the old choke access hole on the airhorn of the carb, and then attached it to the choke plate. It took a little trial and error, but now I controll the choke, and it's much eaiser.
If you have any old, gas powered weed eaters that don't work, you can take the little swivel attachment that holds the throttle cable to the carb for a little swivelly attatchment to the choke plate instead of bending the wire over. But, bending the wire work well for me for years.
I got sick of screwing with the auto choke on my 2150 6 years ago and ripped it off and put in a manual cable choke. The cable cost 6 bucks at checker auto and the rest was just putting it in and making sure all the vaccums were plugged.
I ran the cable through the fire wall plug, mounted it to the screw hole mounts for the old choke on the side of the carb, ran the cable through the old choke access hole on the airhorn of the carb, and then attached it to the choke plate. It took a little trial and error, but now I controll the choke, and it's much eaiser.
If you have any old, gas powered weed eaters that don't work, you can take the little swivel attachment that holds the throttle cable to the carb for a little swivelly attatchment to the choke plate instead of bending the wire over. But, bending the wire work well for me for years.
Inspector-Gadget
New member
Halftop?
I installed a manual throttle and a manual choke on my previous 350-SBC engined CJ-7.
Installation of both was overall a piece of cake. The tricky part of the installations involved fabricating the brackets and clamps required to secure the outer casing of the choke and throttle cables at the carb ends, but that was nothing a well-stocked junk box and a little ingenuity couldn't overcome.
NAPA has universal choke and throttle cables which have "T-handles" instead of round knobs. I prefer that style because they also have a "turn to lock" feature. That feature allowed one to pull out the throttle until the engine reached the desired RPM, then turn the T-handle one-half turn clockwise to lock the throttle at that position.
Turning the T-handle counter-clockwise and releasing would allow the engine to resume normal idle RPM by the pull of the gas pedal return springs.
As I recall, the cost of each of those throttle/choke cables was in the neighborhood of $14.00.
In the case of the throttle cable, I used a length of heavy-duty round-bead chain (available in nuts and bolts section of any hardware store) to make the connection between the solid wire end of the throttle cable and the accelerator linkage on the carb. Using that flexible connection, the gas pedal could over-ride the minimum engine RPM set by the manual throttle without having to release the locked manual throttle control.
Hard to explain, but if you look at how the mechanical connection is made via bead-chain between the actuator servo and throttle linkage of a cruise-control equipped car, you will get the idea.
Gadget
I installed a manual throttle and a manual choke on my previous 350-SBC engined CJ-7.
Installation of both was overall a piece of cake. The tricky part of the installations involved fabricating the brackets and clamps required to secure the outer casing of the choke and throttle cables at the carb ends, but that was nothing a well-stocked junk box and a little ingenuity couldn't overcome.
NAPA has universal choke and throttle cables which have "T-handles" instead of round knobs. I prefer that style because they also have a "turn to lock" feature. That feature allowed one to pull out the throttle until the engine reached the desired RPM, then turn the T-handle one-half turn clockwise to lock the throttle at that position.
Turning the T-handle counter-clockwise and releasing would allow the engine to resume normal idle RPM by the pull of the gas pedal return springs.
As I recall, the cost of each of those throttle/choke cables was in the neighborhood of $14.00.
In the case of the throttle cable, I used a length of heavy-duty round-bead chain (available in nuts and bolts section of any hardware store) to make the connection between the solid wire end of the throttle cable and the accelerator linkage on the carb. Using that flexible connection, the gas pedal could over-ride the minimum engine RPM set by the manual throttle without having to release the locked manual throttle control.
Hard to explain, but if you look at how the mechanical connection is made via bead-chain between the actuator servo and throttle linkage of a cruise-control equipped car, you will get the idea.
Gadget
west747
New member
from my experence i would recommend going with a manual chock. when i swapped out my carb (for one my mechanic said would work i think it is just an OEM replacement) it had an automatic chock and it hasnt worked properly since the day i got..other than that the carb works great.
