Loosening flush mount bolts?

[Chris10]

Hi all,

i am am trying to install a couple of quick release mirrors, so I have them when I take my doors off my 05 wrangler, but can not seem to be able to even loosen the flush mount bolts to get them off. Not sure if the jeep has been painted, but if so, and ideas on how to get these bolts off? (Nothing ever seems easy)!

Thanks!

 

[TerryMason]

You're talking about the torx (star) bolts that are on the doors and the windshield of your Jeep right? They can be a real bear to get off. Don't even try to remove them unless you have a quality set of torx bits, and make sure you have the right size (not one that's too small). I think that all these bolts are installed at the factory, then painted over.

If it doesn't come out with a normal socket set, I've had success with an impact driver like this:
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
You just slap the bit you want to use into it, then tap it with a hammer until the bolt breaks free.

Getting those torx bolt off the first time is a pain.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Worst cast, weld a smaller nut onto the face of the torx bolt. You'll have a good surface for the wrench and the heat from the welding will really help break them loose.

 

[JPNinPA]

Soak the bolt with PB blaster for a day or two. Put the torx bit into the bolt and heat the bit not the bolt. This way you do not bubble or burn the paint. Tap the bit a few times with a hammer while warm. Heat it and try to break it loose.

I used this method and as mentioned good tight fitting torx bits. I picked up hardened impact torx bits from harbor freight. The tip is sharp not rounded.

 

[Chris10]

So far I've gotten one off, stripped one, and can't even budge the other two.......crazy!

 

[JPNinPA]

Soak & Heat.


There is blue loctite on the one your removed, yes?

This or sharper corners.

Not this

For the stripped drill and use an easy out. Or weld on a nut as mentioned above.

 

[Chris10]

Yes, on the blue loctite on the one I could get out, and yes, the bit I'm using is sharp. The ones on the passenger side won't even budge.

Thanks for for the drilling advise as well! Will have to give that a try on the one I stripped!

 

[JPNinPA]

There is an U tube video on drilling and using an easyout on a yj. Redneck mechanic or something like that.

There is one on welding from a colorful language guy. Bull****korner very colorful language.. Not for family or work.

 

[cougarlasch]

if you can get to the back of them. u can try a soldering iron to maybe heat them up a lil. i believe there is blue loc tite that needs a melting.

 

[superj]

You know what has always made it so those come out very easily, for me? I get the largest breaker bar i have, put a 1/2 to 3/8 reducing adapter on it, then put the torx bit on and use that to take the bolt out. Having the extra lever arm length lets you apply a very high amount of torque in a very smooth linear direction without jerking the handle or accidentally pulling a little bit in the wrong direction, so you never strip those out. Once i figured out that using a very long breaker bar with smooth power transfer made those come out with ease and no striping, i don;t even use anything else. And i have never striped one, since.

 

[Chris10]

Thanks for all the suggestions! Will have to go down the list and give them a try.....!

 

[JPNinPA]

if you can get to the back of them. u can try a soldering iron to maybe heat them up a lil. i believe there is blue loc tite that needs a melting.

I agree this should work but you need a high output soldering iron not just your basic barging kind. Heat is important though.

 

[C David]

Hi all,

i am am trying to install a couple of quick release mirrors, so I have them when I take my doors off my 05 wrangler, but can not seem to be able to even loosen the flush mount bolts to get them off. Not sure if the jeep has been painted, but if so, and ideas on how to get these bolts off? (Nothing ever seems easy)!

Thanks!

Get a set of mirrors thate attach to the door hinge

 

[Clifford]

Spot on.

 

[Dragon5126]

Blue Loctite should break loose without heat. If you need heat, you are causing differential expansion to aid the bolt in breaking loose. The blue Loctite is only acting to prevent vibration from causing the bolt to walk out... What you really need is an air impact ratchet or air impact driver (preferably the latter over the former as it keeps the bit seated) Don't even bother using straight rotational force on any decent sizes of torx bolts. These are used because a standard screw wont hold up to the force that is needed to hold the part in place that they anchor. When you need to remove one go for the impact driver right off. And hopefully you have the pneumatic variety. As for the shape of the bit itself. There are two types, one with the tip perfectly flat, the other conical. you awnt to use the one that fits the bolt properly with minimal wiggle. True torx bits are conical with a light taper. The knock off Star Bit doesn't seat all the way and can ruin the socket the bit sits in. This isn't to say they are no good. In fact. they are ideal for use in rusted and damaged torx bolts as the squared off edges cut into the damaged metal when pounded into place before being turned. But when used in a virgin torx bolt can damage the socket, leading to walk out and stripping.

 

[Dragon5126]

The problem with all that rotational force is the ease that you can twist a seized bolt off with, when it is a narrow diameter screw... Taking you back to the drill and tap...

 

[JPNinPA]

Oops

 

[JPNinPA]

Agree on the bit fit and need for impact drive to remove the bolts. In my experience and reading through several write-ups of successful removals heat is required.

From loctite website http://m.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/0/15/t_lkr_blue/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242

"...For disassembly, shear with standard hand tools and remove with methylene chloride. In rare instances where hand tools do not work because of excessive engagement length, apply localized heat to nut or bolt to approximately 482°F (250°C). Disassemble while hot. "

Carb and TB cleaner has methylene chloride in it but I don't know what it will do to paint.

 

[Mtpockets]

All of these are good suggestions for getting the bolts out that still have heads. I just went through the same issue with removal of all the hinges (windshield, mirrors and doors). I broke three and stripped a couple of heads. I went to Fastenal and bought a set of counter clockwise drill bits to remove the stripped and broken bolts. Started small and stepped up one size each drill until either bolt backed out with the bit or only the threads were left and was able to tap them out. Fastenal also has replacement bolts.

 

[Dragon5126]

This is why it is imperative to start with the proper sized bit/socket, and not one that is worn or marginal, and use a pneumatic impact driver. The pounding action breaks the adhesion of paint, and rust, as well as locking compounds such as Loctite. Moving up to this from lesser means of fastener removal simply results in the need to drill and tap in way too many instances. For the cost of a compressor and pneumatic tool kit, you will save money, time, and frustration in the long term, if you do any auto motive work yourself. Just tire rotation and inflation alone makes a mid priced compressor a worthwhile investment, as it will save you time and money on having to replace tires prematurely.

On drilling out fasteners: If you haven't invested in counter clockwise bits yet DO IT! My late father introduced me to them decades ago. I haven't bee without them since. If you ever have to drill a broken bolt or stud to use an easy out, You probably would have just had to drill the piece with a CCW bit to back it out. If you still had to use the extractor, no big deal. (a hint on using easyouts/ extractors: drill the bolt/stud ALL THE WAY THROUGH if at all possible. Once the shaft is made hollow it will flex torsionally as you twist it and pull away from the threads that it is seized on, making it easier to remove)