I found this... and Im confused...

[Joopin]

1065227

I have been looking for a sye for a while now and I found this for sale on the net...

Is this all I need? I've seen kits with a whole mess of stuff but never just one thing like this... I was thinking it is a "knuckle" type thing to put in the drive shaft and extend it/reduce angle... the guy hasn't emailed me back yet so I was hoping someone here could help. Thanks

edited by: Joopin\', Apr 22, 2003 - 09:40 AM[addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1065237

That is a slip yoke similar to what your driveshaft is bolted to now. It's not a SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator).

SYE come in two types.
- Replace the transfer case main shaft with a shorter unit that a fixed rear yoke bolts to (usually a thicker, stronger mainshaft).
- Cut the stock mainshaft shorter and drill and tap the end of the shaft, bolt on an output yoke (hack and tap).

The 'hack and tap' is considerably cheaper and easier to install. Most will recommend the replacement main shaft, but it's more expensive, harder to install, and not proven as a necessity. The stock shafts are not prone to failure, and I have heard of no problems with the 'hack and tap' style SYE.

The replacement mainshaft kit with CV shaft run about $450 to $600. The 'hack and tap' ranges from $100 to $200 depending on your jeep model, and does not include CV driveshaft.[addsig]

 

[Joopin]

1065278

So this one here is the hack and tap sye right? Now if I get this do i still need a cv shaft? This guy is selling it for around 60 bucks, is it worth it? I have never seen one for sale anywhere else so I wasn't sure. Thanks for the help though. I learn something new every day![addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1065289

So this one here is the hack and tap sye right?

No. See the long splined area, this is what slips over the splined output shaft of the transfer case, it moves in and out as the suspension cycles up and down. A 'hack and tap' yoke is a lot shorter, and will have a small hole to bolt to the mainshaft. Imagine about 3" of the splines cut off that one, that'll be the hack and tap.

Give me the link to where this person is selling this, I want to check it out closer and maybe keep somebody from getting ripped off by false advertising. Thanks.[addsig]

 

[Joopin]

1065297

Here is that link you wanted...
He did finally write me back and this is what he said... "This is the whole kit. This one does not require you to take apart the T-case and replace the main shaft with a shorter one. This uses you T-case as it is today. Drill and tap into the mainshaft is all ther is to it."
SO I am still confused... but actually today I called a local truck place that did lifts, and they would NOT do an soa... too much liability at stake. But he did say that if I was going to do it myself I should use the full kit and have a cv shaft if I wanted it to work with no problems at all. I cant wait till this is all over with and my Jeep is sky high!

Just thought of more questions for you since you are being MR. Answer Man today... (greatly appriciated by the way) In a 91 YJ, 4.0, 5spd., what transfer case is in there? NP207 or NP231? and one more question... i noticed you are using a cv shaft from an xj... are the TJs and XJs cv shafts ready to go right into a YJ or do they need to be modified? Thanks for your help...


edited by: Joopin\', Apr 22, 2003 - 05:55 PM[addsig]

 

[MORGSTER]

1065340

After looking at the picture several times it does look like a wack and tap unit.
It was confusing because my SYE has a different design completly.
You can search Google and find more info.

Good Luck [addsig]

 

[Joopin]

1065342

Morgster, I looked at your sye setup on your page... it looks great. I was just wondering, was installing the sye a huge pain in the __? I was looking at some instructions for the type you have and it looks pretty complicated and who knows how long it will take... well, you do! I only can afford 2 days to do my soa and I want to use as much time as i can on that. Actually I could do the SYE later, right? It looks like you had a lift first then added the sye... I may be wrong though... thanks for the info Morgster![addsig]

 

[MORGSTER]

1065344

Sorry Joopin, I redid the reply.
Go to my web pics on page 2 and you will see the SYE installed.
The gold color parts are the SYE in addition to a main shaft inside (this is not the Whack and Tap unit).
I also installed a longer CV style drive shaft that added a substantial cost to the project.
This upgrade was necessary for the 5-inch lift to stop unwanted vibrations.
[addsig]

 

[MORGSTER]

1065346

To answer the install question:
I removed the Transfer Case and did the install on a bench. It was easier and even took less time to just take it out than try to do it upside-down under the Jeep. The whole install took about four hours in my garage. I did have all of the parts including the drive shaft ready. With decent tools and good reading skills the installation was not hard at all.
[addsig]

 

[JE420EP]

1065353

If your going to do the sye go with the currie sye. Morgster i have the same set up. Did you lower your skid plate?? or is it in the stock location. Dude your jeep looks good!



Real jeeps are built not bought![addsig]

 

[MORGSTER]

1065369

JE420EP:
Thanks for the compliment.
The SYE allows you to keep your skid plate in the stock location.
That extra clearance comes in handy offroad.[addsig]

 

[Snitty]

1065379

ok... the auction is not incorrect... it WOULD eliminate the slipyoke... but it would NOT help at all on the driveshaft angle, which is the reason for eliminating the slip yoke. this would only hold the yoke solid to the output shaft.

Bounty... how much shorter is the TJ rear housing for the Tcase... and how much can you afford to cut off the output/yoke? and.. i haven't looked yet, can the stock yoke be modified to a strap/Ubolt style, rather than a press-in deal? I know there is enough clearance in there to put a bolt... but it would be a pain in the nuts to have to press in a Ujoint with the yoke already installed[addsig]

 

[Joopin]

1065385

So I guess I will go with a full sye kit, not that hack and tap thing... and as for the cv driveshaft, now that I know I can get one out of a TJ or XJ I know I can get one cheaper used... [addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1065397

joopin, you have the NP231 transfer case. You can still use the 'hack and tap' SYE to save a lot of bucks, just get the one from Rubicon Express that gives you a 4" longer driveshaft.

If you get an XJ front CV shaft, you have to make sure it's the older style with the heavier wall tubing, 0.120" wall tubing, then you have to have it shortened. Remember, doing it like I am takes patience and making a lot of things come together over a period of time, for some it's just easier to spend the extra money for a complete kit.

RE's 'hack and tap' for the TJ is $100 cheaper than the YJ, cuz the TJ kit reuses the stock tailshaft housing. I had a TJ tailshaft housing given to me, so I can go with the TJ 'hack and tap' on my YJ with no problems.

That ebay sale is a rip, "I believe it cost $140 from Arizona Drivelines", what BS. $140 for a yoke :lol:

Snitty, all the stock yokes are a 'strap and bolt' style. Are you talking about pressing the u-joints into the actual driveshaft yoke and not the output yoke?[addsig]

 

[Joopin]

1065405

Bounty,
The XJ cv shaft is longer, but you said the TJs also have one... will they have to be shortened as well? I don't have the time to have things modified... if it means a little extra money to have everything ready to put in, its worth it to me.

Oh and since that hack and tap doesn't actually decrease the driveshaft angle... then I think ill just get the normal sye kit... When it comes to stuff like this, I'll shell out the bucks for better quality job.

edited by: Joopin\', Apr 23, 2003 - 09:26 AM[addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1065425

Bounty,
The XJ cv shaft is longer, but you said the TJs also have one... will they have to be shortened as well?

Oh and since that hack and tap doesn't actually decrease the driveshaft angle... then I think ill just get the normal sye kit... When it comes to stuff like this, I'll shell out the bucks for better quality job

I'm talking front shafts here, so wether it's a TJ or XJ, you have to have it shortened at a shop. I wouldn't use a TJ shaft, too thin of wall tubing, have to use early XJ for a stronger shaft.

The RE SYE 'hack and tap' DOES allow for a longer CV driveshaft, so it shortens the output the same as the full-blown kits that replace the entire mainshaft, allowing better driveline angles. That's where the 'hack' comes from, you have to cut several inches from the stock mainshaft. The 'tap' is drilling and tapping the end of the mainshaft to allow a short yoke to bolt on, much shorter than the one in the pics above.

Nothing wrong with coughing up the extra $$ for the most complete kit if you can't afford the downtime. I'm just trying to let you know all the options.[addsig]

 

[Snitty]

1065473

ok... couple things here... first.. my output yoke is not strap and bolt style, neither were the few others i looked at... they were press in style, i'm talking where the driveshaft meets the output yoke, the stock slip yoke... the only bolt in i found for the rear shaft was at the axle... the front driveshaft has both bolt in style...

does the TJ tailshaft bolt right up to the YJ Tcase... are there any issues with oil sealing[addsig]

 

[Joopin]

1065495

Okay, I had no idea that you were talking about a front driveshaft... I thought that was one thing I didn't have to touch!! But why wouldn't I, the t case is farther from the front axle too... So my thirst for knowledge or a desire to be a pain in the blank leads me to ask: What exactly do I need for the driveshafts?... assuming I do the SOA with a complete SYE kit.
And believe me B_H, I appriciate you letting me know all the options![addsig]

 

[ajfrank43]

1065531

Call TOM WOOD'S CUSTOM DRIVE SHAFTS. They have pretty good deals, and very good products. I did the advance adapters SYE kit and TOM WOOD'S cv drive shaft for $500. Took me 2 hour to install it.[addsig]

 

[Snitty]

1065559

the front driveshaft doesn't need anything done... the Tcase is far enough away from it that the radius of travel is not extended enough for it to be a concern[addsig]