how to remove bearing race rear axle 04 grand

strobo

New member
I can not get the bearing race out of the axle tube in my 04 grand cherokee. I have tried a slide hammer and it is worn and keeps slippinf off the lip of the bearing race no matter how tight i get the slide hammer jaws. should I heat the axle tube?
 

If you are good with a welder you can run a small bead all the way around the inside of the race and when it cools is usually almost falls out. I used that trick a lot when I used to rebuild portal axles on tractors. A lot of bearings in there. Just make sure you cover everything that you don't want splatter to get on.
 
This is one of the worst engineering designins i have ver seen.
The outer race of the axel bearingn has about a 1/16 inch lip for the grippers of the slide hammer to grab. The race is deep set. You have to be perfect on pulling the hammer so as not to cock the race as you pull it out. This design is "shit".
 
I agree with what was said earlier, if you heat it up, it will almost certainly fall out of there. I've used that trick a few times myself. If you don't have access to a welder you can use a torch too if you need to.
 

I've pulled quite a few of these, never had a problem. Just make sure you use a good axle bearing puller that is not wore down. It will come out fairly easy. Be careful using a welder and heat on the tube and make sure you clean axle tube out when done as the splatter will ruin things real quick.
 
I've tried all sorts of stuff over the years, I tend to shy away from a torch. Mostly now I grind it down until it is almost through, Notch it, use a long pointy punch and a BFH to crack it. If the punch nicks the race seat, no big deal, nothing a little sanding won't cure. A set of those round grinding wheels that fit in a drill aren't really expensive. I have a one hand, air drivin grinder that turns at really high RPM's, it usually makes short work of bearing races. Though you do have to be careful, sometimes the grinding wheel shatters, face, chest and neck protection are a must. Keep a sharp eye on your work and don't grind in too deep. A few imperfections in the race seat aren't really critical, if you slip, you do have to make sure nicks are flush before you try to put your new bearing in.
The races are hard but brittle they tend to crack before they bend, if you heat them and let them cool slowly they get a lot softer and can be bent. Grinding heats it up some also, but not nearly as much as a torch does.
I've been wanting to try a can of Loc Tite freeze spray, I really can't tell you how it works, but the principle sounds interesting.
 
I've never had a problem with them. Just have to pull evenly on each side. Those races usually aren't press fit if it's the non c clip axle. On the axle you cut them all off the press the new ones on.
 
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