Getting this old track bar out of the XJ

[bradleyheathhays]

I developed a bit of death wobble in the old 96er recently and traced it to the driver side connection of my track bar, so I'm in the middle of getting it out. I've been soaking the passenger side connection in the picture below with PB for a while now, and it's still distressingly hard to turn. I can get the red bolt head to turn some using 4-5" worth of cheater bar on my 3/8" ratchet, but only until the yellow nut tab reaches it's limit of travel within the rectangular hole it protrudes through. I keep doing PB soaks, torches followed by cold water dousing cycles, but it's not getting any easier to turn at all. The nut is rotating with the bolt because the tab moves when I turn the bolt, so the nut is not what's holding it up. My best idea is that the bolt has rusted to the metal sleeve in the track bar bushing and that sleeve is rotating with the bolt, held by the friction against the rubber. I haven't even tried to rotate the bolt past where the nut tab comes in contact with it's limits as I'm almost putting enough torque on it to twist the head off already.

Any advice on working this thing?

Also, say the bolt head were to snap off. What would you do to get the bolt out? My only idea would be to try to push the bolt through from the head side with an awl or something smaller than the bolt diameter, then try to get an oscillating cutter up into that window on the right and piece by piece cut the end of the bolt off until it all comes through. Thoughts?

 

[TerryMason]

That is a captive nut. Without that flag / metal bar connected to it, it's much more difficult to get started. Here's what it looks like

You're right that the bolt is probably rusted to the bushing sleeve. If it were me, I would throw my impact on the bolt and just send it. You could keep up the penetrating oil for a few days - that would likely help.

If the bolt head snaps off, you may be able to get a cutoff wheel, sawzall, or multitool between the trackbar and the axle tube to cut that side of the bolt off as well. Looks like that bushing is toast, so no need to try and preserve it.

I ended up drilling my trackbar hole larger, and putting in a larger bolt with a standard nut on the end. I've found that a flare nut wrench is small enough to fit in that opening and hold the nut while I tighten (a standard wrench wouldn't fit in that spot on my TJ).

 

[JPNinPA]

I find it hard to believe the nut rusted to the sleeve. The bolt is a lot smaller than the sleeve. I typically tell people to get the largest bolt to minimize potential movement. Heat the bolt and smack it with a hammer or pneumatic hammer.
If the flag broke loose you should be able to get a box end wrench in there.


Never look down on anyone unless you are helping them up - Jesse Jackson

 

[bradleyheathhays]

Thanks for the opinions. Terry I've come up with an idea that's gonna help getting it out if the head snaps. First I'm gonna remove the tabbed nut by rotating it instead of the bolt head. That way I'll use the friction between the bolt and sleve/rubber to my advantage instead of putting all the strain on the head. It'll take a minute but well worth the effort if things go south getting the bolt out.

JPN I wasn't thinking the nut was rusted to the sleeve, not that I can see anyway. I'm guessing the bolt is rusted to the sleeve, which is why it's so hard to turn. The tabbed nut is turning with the bolt but I haven't really tried to break it loose yet.

Nuther question. If I break the bolt head off and can't get it out and have to drive the two miles to my mechanics, will my front suspension be stable enough to make that slow drive? I'm guessing it'd be ok as the bolt would still be in the connection. I'm talking 10-20 mph slow.

 

[TerryMason]

I wouldn't drive without a safe trackbar. That bolt is what keeps the axle centered under the Jeep. Never tried it, but I think that if you didn't have that bolt, when you went to turn the wheel the jeep body would move separate from the axle. If the bolt was only held on one side (i.e. no head) it may sheer off pretty quickly.

Get a replacement bolt before you start - you can next day it from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Retainer-Compatible-Wrangler-RO-1018-12-9/dp/B0D9LBWJRT/

I don't know if that bolt is hardened, but you may be able to cut through it with a multitool like this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-brushless-cordless-variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-tool-only-58379.html

That seems like it would be pretty easy to fit in that spot. I love an excuse to buy another tool.

 

[Jeepergeo]

Try an impact driver and let whack a bit on a lower power setting, spray it with a rust buster, then whack it a few more times. Let it sit over night, then turn the impact driver to high and give it a try.