EZ-locker or Lock-Right

[hi_c]

I'm getting a locker next month. I want the lunchbox style as I'm putting it in my D35 (non c-clip) and don't want to put too much $ in that thing. So I don't want answers to the other question (should I lock my D35). I already know the D35 is weak. What I want to know is which is better, the EZ-locker or the Lock-Right? I've read reviews and they seem to be the same thing. The one exception I can find is that Tractech (EZlocker makers) will only guarantee their locker if your vehicle runs 32" or smaller tires. Lock-Right does not specify. I have 33's.

Now I know that some of you are anti-Dana35-locking-with-33"-tires, but before you speak, consider that I only have 4-cylinders... 4 very tired cylinders (166K miles, never rebuilt) and my street to off-road ratio is about 80/20. I only plan on locking the rear and my vehicle is my daily driver. So gimme your thoughts ON THESE 2 LOCKERS ONLY, not on whether you think I should lock or not. Also, Lincoln Locker is out of the question. I want to be able to undo if I don't like it.

Thanks.

Corey

 

[currupt4130]

heres an idea, call up superior and see if you can get a super 35 kit with a lockright, they used to do it until lock right went out of buisness and they have just recently gotten back on their feet, if your going to lock the d35 you really should think about beefing it up a little bit

 

[Sound_Man]

if your going to lock the d35 you really should think about beefing it up a little bit

You really should think about this.

33"s on a D35 with a locker is asking for breakage if you are using stock axles.

edit
I didn't consider the spline count with my thoughts on the spares.

~Curt

 

[currupt4130]

its definatley best to upgrade now, think about it, you buy a locker for the 27 spline d 35 and break the axle, then you think well maybe ill upgrade now since i broke that, you cant use the 27 spline d35 lockright locker for the stock axles so you have to buy a new locker and new axles and your stuck with an extra locker that you spent 200-300 dollars on

 

[hi_c]

I already know the D35 is weak. So gimme your thoughts ON THESE 2 LOCKERS ONLY, not on whether you think I should lock or not.

Did I not make myself perfectly clear? I did call Superior, though, and they said "No" they won't do the Super 35 kit with any other type of locker than the Detroit or the ARB.

So can I hear from somebody with an opinion on the EZ-locker vs. the Lock-Right?

If you're not going to comment on one of these 2 lockers (reliability, quality, pros/cons) then please... don't comment. Thanks. Not trying to be a jerk, but I know the downfalls of the Dana 35. And in the world of ebay, you're never "stuck" with anything. Someone is always willing to buy it. I saw a broken locker get sold one time on ebay... for parts, mind you, but it sold.

Corey

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

They seem the same to me.

Sounds like you know what you're doing and either lunchbox locker should work for what you want it to do.

***trying...hard...not...to...add...other....opinions...***

 

[White]

Well I have seen the lock rite's Snappin axles all the time. So if its strong enough to snap axles with 33-35s I say get the lock rite.

I would like to break the axles and not the locker. Sounds like Ez is trying to tell you there locker is weak ? .

I just did a 1500 mi road trip on a welded 10 bolt :mrgreen:
But for your reason, lock rite!

 

[currupt4130]

seized motor

lock right, my buddy runs it front and rear, and he loves it, he did manage to snap a few pins in it because he was using it to pull wheelies all the time but they sent him new pins for free and he fixed it in 30 minutes, there are limits to everything but for a lunchbox locker the lock right is definatley top notch

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

IMO lunchbox lockers are harder on axleshafts than a Lincoln Locker. I've seen many a lunchbox locker break an axleshaft where as I've been wheelin my Lincoln Locker hard with nary a problem. Seems to me that the sudden locking of the lunchbox locker during wheel spin is too much shear force for the axleshaft where it necks down to the splines.

For my money it would be a limited slip or Lincoln Locker, and with as little as you say you wheel I'd stay open or get a LS.

Couldn't resist, very little self control over here

 

[Sound_Man]

Couldn't resist, very little self control over here

I am in the same boat, lincon lock it. Save the $$ and run what ya brung!

I couldn't resist either. :lol:

 

[west747]

Weld that puppy up and get a cable to dissconnect it.....or if your set on spending money go with the loc-rite...havnt heard of too many problems with this locker in my neck of the woods!

 

[TwistedCU]

I think they are comparable lockers. I also doubt you'll break your axle on 33's w/ 4:10's and a 2.5L. Heck, if you do, then upgrade. I say give it a shot if that is what you want. Get the cheaper one :wink:

 

[mud4feet]

Save the $$ and run what ya brung!

I am of that school. If you're 80/20, why spend the bucks? I usually don't change things 'til I come up against somethin' that I can't get over no matter what I do. Of course, I would love lockers, too, but so far, been gettin' along fine.
my $.02

mud

 

[currupt4130]

just for future reference LS and open are the same thing, they run spider gears that are open in the dif, some tend to be smarter at which wheel needs power, IE: posi trac, or at least thats what ive been told in many heated debates

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

LS and open are not the same thing, and many limited slips (LS) perform very well, much better than an open diff.

 

[Joopin]

I have a LS in my rear D44, it works great offroad and hasn't failed me yet. I may just get one for the front as well, either that or a loc right!

 

[hi_c]

TwistedCopper knows exactly what I'm talking about. 33's, 4.10 gears, and a 2.5L are not the same recipe for disaster that a 4.0L, 33's, and 4.10s. Thank you, TC, for re-iterating my thoughts. Also, the only reason I drive 80/20 is because I just got lifted 6 months ago. I'm getting my front exhaust pipe re-routed in front of the oil sump ($50 cash, mom-n-pop shop) and then I'm getting a new custom (homemade) crossmember to slide better over obstacles. Once that's done, my wheeling will be more 50/50. I figure a rear-locker only setup is the way to go. I don't have a heavy foot, and rely on good spotting to overcome obstacles. The locker will allow me to slow down rather than speed up and run-n-bump the obstacles. In my opinion, this will SAVE my Dana35.

And YES, when (not if) the D35 breaks, I will upgrade it. But I believe I will get at least 3-5 years out of that rearend. Also, remember, the pre-90 D35c on YJs does not have those crummy c-clips. I believe this to be in my benefit.

Corey

ps. Lock-right it is.

 

[Sully]

I have heard nothing but bad things about the EZ locker. Get a lock-right.

 

[hi_c]

Thanx, Sully.

Also, while surfing today, I found this: http://www.ok4wd.com/product.asp?id=547
If my D35 ever explodes, that's what I'm getting. For $800 I can have a Ford 8.8 with perches, shock mounts, disc brakes and all, ready to go. Only other mods would be a different length driveshaft (probably a SYE, too) and running hydraulic lines to each wheel. I'm excited.

Corey

 

[TwistedCU]

Don't get me wrong, it can break and would break if you tried hard enough, but if you wheel it being mindful of what you have (not a maniac) you should be ok. I just don't see any point in upgrading the rear until there is a need. I plan to lincoln lock both ends of my YJ and run good size tires on the stock axle. I'll upgrade when I break it. Mine won't be a daily driver and I won't have to worry about down-time