Excessive rear axel wrap

[new jeep guy]

I just bought my first jeep. It is an 89 wrangler sahara with the 4.2 liter. It has 456 gears with detroit lockers front and rear. I drove it home and it seemed ok but developed a vibration in a short period of time. It only vibrates when you are excellerating hard. Looking at the rear driveline the bolts in the rear ujoint look like they are hitting on the inside of the ujoint like I have a ton of axel wrap. It has a spring over lift. I am not sure if the springs may be wearing out or if maybe I need to build a ladder bar. Any info would be appreciated.

 

[jfrabat]

If it has SOA, then you need a traction bar to correct it... Axle warp is the main reason I decided against a SOA when I was making my lift decision. Even with the 2.5L you will get axle warp.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I'd bet your axlewrap is a combination of the low gearing, SOA, and soft springs. A simple traction bar will fix it, Skyjacker makes a slick setup that would be easy to install.

 

[new jeep guy]

Thanks for the input. by traction bar do you mean a ladder bar or what kind of traction bar would you recommend.

 

[GaryMB]

Here is a good example of a traction bar: Anti wrap bar
If you would rather buy one then samsoffroad.com makes a good traction bar

 

[jfrabat]

Thanks for the input. by traction bar do you mean a ladder bar or what kind of traction bar would you recommend.

Anti-warp bar, ladder bar, traction bar, they are all pretty much the same thing...

 

[Joopin]

You could also get Rubicon Express Reverse Eye Springs. They help a lot... I have an SOA and bought the springs... haven't had trouble since.

 

[new jeep guy]

Thanks again. I may try to build one myself. Save some money.

 

[cibholder03]

I agree with all the above, had an 86' CJ with SOA and YJ stock leafs, had tons of axle wrap, bought a DYI traction bar kit and it helped, but to do it right I would get some leafs made to be SOA like the RE 1.5" SOA springs.

 

[buckshot500]

I'm a fan of doing things the "Redneck Way".

Anything you can buy at "Tractor Supply", & use on your heep is certainly "Redneck"!:lol:


I have a good link, but have to make five posts to put it here. it involves using two tractor linkage parts available at the above mentioned store.
These are about $22.00 each.

I'll come back & put the link up in a few. I'll edit this post.

http://www.forums.coastalcarolinaoffroad.com/showthread.php?t=2732

.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I'm a fan of doing things the "Redneck Way".

Anything you can buy at "Tractor Supply", & use on your heep is certainly "Redneck"!:lol:


I have a good link, but have to make five posts to put it here. it involves using two tractor linkage parts available at the above mentioned store.
These are about $22.00 each.

I'll come back & put the link up in a few. I'll edit this post.

That's what we use around here, just cut the ends off a tractor link and lengthen it.

 

[buckshot500]

That's what we use around here, just cut the ends off a tractor link and lengthen it.

This is a good writeup, for those who can't picture it.

Cheap traction bar!!!!! - Coastal Carolina Offroad

I'll be doing this to my YJ real soon!

 

[new jeep guy]

I have built and istalled a ladder bar with heim joint bars from a 3 point hitch on a tractor that I bought from the Kabota shop near me. It improved the vibration I had but did not eliminate it. Apon further inspection i noticed the rear diff was already at an upward angle causing the back ujoint to be close to binding before I even put torque on it. Also the rear yoke was worn out from all the abuse of the axle wrap I guess.
I ordered a new yoke and when I went to put it in it was taller than the yoke I took out causing the driveline to be a little long.
I thought about putting wedges under the springs to lower the angle on the rear ujoint and then noticed the spacers in the trany transfer case cross member. By taking the spacers out from inbetween the cross member and the frame rails it moved my transfer case farther away from my rear end which lengthened the driveline slip joint and also took the angle from the rear ujoint and put it on the constant volocity joint on the back of the transfer case.
By moving the cross member up I changed my angle to the front point on the ladder bar I built. I welded a home made shackle to the cross member as my front anchor point. Because I used the threaded heim joints you suggested I was able to unthread the lower heim joint on the rear and lift the front of the ladder bar up to fit the new position of my transfer case cross member.
Long story long. The ladder bar helped but I beilive it was a bad lift istallation job that originally caused the issues.
Thanks again for all the input. This is a great web site. I would have had a lot harder time getting ideas without you guys.

 

[buckshot500]

Glad you got it figured out, & now you can leave a bit harder from a dead stop!

That 5th link will help with rock crawling as well.