electric fuel pump for AMC 304

[hoobness]

I need an electric fuel pump for a 304 2bbl w headers and open exhaust. The one on there is shot I believe as it pumps nothing but makes noise like a fish tank pump. Basically just the gph needs for the motor and I'll get the rest.

I may go big and stick a psi regulator in line so I can adjust it later as I give the motor more “spirit”.

but advice would be great.

thanks again!

 

[SteelHeadz]

I used to use the Edelbrock electric fuel pump on mine but it doesn't seems to last for the price. Now I've been using a universal electric fuel pump from Napa auto parts with a constant 7psi without a regulator. I'm running that on an AMC 360 with the performer intake and 4bbl carb..

 

[69jeepcj]

I am running a universal pump as well. Mr. gasket pump from my local auto store, been using it for over a year now with no problems. My old pump was a universal as well, it didn't last long and ended up doing the same as the one you have, it buzzed but didn't pump anything, but I think it was a 4-6 cyl pump instead of a v8 pump and just didn't last. Your engine needs 5-7 psi. The pump I have is feeding a mid 60,s 327 and 4 barrel carb, no regulator and works fine.

 

[superj]

I put a holley pump on mine a week after I bought, two or three years ago. Still running the same pump with no regulator on my four barrel carb. mounted everything totally against the rules, I put the pump on the fender and it lasted this whole time

 

[hoobness]

Awesome thanks!

 

[carnuck]

It should be mounted as close to the tank as possible too.

 

[hoobness]

I mounted it on the frame rail under the xfer case skid plate, made sure gravity helped fuel get to the pump before confirming the mounting position so it would mostly just push fuel and not bothe pull and push.

 

[69jeepcj]

that should be fine. You just want it as close to the tank as you can get it and it still be out of harms way when off road. If you could find a place closer, that would probably be better but where you have it should work fine.

 

[carnuck]

It uses the line between the pump and carb as a "reservoir" so when you punch it there is enough fuel flow to keep up. I added a fuel filter from a TBI system to give it some more pressure reserve. (the 401 I'm selling comes with one)

 

[jps4jeep]

It uses the line between the pump and carb as a "reservoir" so when you punch it there is enough fuel flow to keep up. I added a fuel filter from a TBI system to give it some more pressure reserve. (the 401 I'm selling comes with one)

I think you are in the right church, just the wrong pew.

You want the pump as close to the tank for 2 reason:

1. Pressurizing the fuel line will change the boiling point of the fluid as to reduce the chance of vapor lock which is caused by the fuel overheating and changing partially or fully from liquid fuel to a gaseous state. This was a huge problem with single feed fuel lines with a fuel pump on the motor or in the engine bay on early carbureted engine
2. The fuel pump physically runs cooler and transfers less heat to the fuel again eliminating vapor lock.


I understand that you have this fixed, but for future reference, I have had great luck with an out of tank fuel pump for I think a 1986 ford bronco. Advance sells it for ~ $50 with warranty, never had an issue with it on EFI motors, carbed motors I would definitely run some type of regulator.

 

[hoobness]

I think you are in the right church, just the wrong pew.

You want the pump as close to the tank for 2 reason:

1. Pressurizing the fuel line will change the boiling point of the fluid as to reduce the chance of vapor lock which is caused by the fuel overheating and changing partially or fully from liquid fuel to a gaseous state. This was a huge problem with single feed fuel lines with a fuel pump on the motor or in the engine bay on early carbureted engine
2. The fuel pump physically runs cooler and transfers less heat to the fuel again eliminating vapor lock.


I understand that you have this fixed, but for future reference, I have had great luck with an out of tank fuel pump for I think a 1986 ford bronco. Advance sells it for ~ $50 with warranty, never had an issue with it on EFI motors, carbed motors I would definitely run some type of regulator.

You bring up something I forgot about.. the vent line. In my quest to eliminate all the clutter and broken stuff under the hood I removed the charcoal can too. The po installed a holley 2 bbl with no emissions provisions. I also noticed the charcoal can was broken in 2. Said screw it and ripped out all the lines to the tank except for the fuel line. The vent line that went to a unfunctioning rollover valve and then to the charcoal can is now just hanging discreetly under the rear bumper far enough out as to not trap vapors under the body or frame.

I wondered if that was ok, made sense to me but now with your recent reply I'm second guessing myself.

 

[carnuck]

Sounds like it will puke fuel on the road or hill behind you as you climb or even slosh the gas around and build up pressure in the tank.

 

[jps4jeep]

The tank needs to vent. i recomend a in-line roll over vent if you plan on wheeling where it might roll. if not, just vent to atmosphere, preferably under the jeep away from exhaust.

 

[zombicon]

Hey have a question my 98 wrangler acts like its goin to die when I first turn it over and some times it's acts like its gettin no gas when goin down the road I don't know if it's fuel injectors and fuel pump cause it just does it when I first turn it over

 

[carnuck]

Could be a number of things. Loose ground wire on the body causes a lot of problems (it's not the one going from the battery to the motor) Swap your fuel pump relay with the one next to it (if they have the same part number) Then I'd look at the ignition electrical switch. Also make sure the CPS (top of the bellhousing driver's side) isn't melting itself to the exhaust manifold.