Does anyone know the torq spec for a pinion nut on a dana 35

pushead

New member
I am looking for the torq spec for a pinion bolt on a 88 yj dana 35 non c clip axle. THe dealer did not have it available. THey did say the current dana 35s where 160Ft pounds though.
 

I took a look in my Haynes book and rear axle pinion shaft lock bolt says 14 ft-lbs of torq. Only thing near that in my book is the Front axleshaft hub nut..175. but I suck and could be looking in the wrong place..
 
I have never used a torque wrench, I just tighten it by hand.......works just as good and I have done a decent amount of work on my YJ
 

Too late for the procedure. The nut was already off. I had to remove the whole shaft and replace a few items. Know i cant find the torque specs. No darn books show it and I cant find it on the net. They all say check your manual. Besides I can tell someone was in this axle prior to me so it may not have had the correct torque on it to begin with. Still looking though if some one comes across it.

I think its time to buy the jeep factory service manual from (thejeep.com) but mine is like $139. Kind of steep.
 
I've got the YJ FSM. Recommends installing a new collapsible preload spacer (what we call a crush sleeve) and then torquing to 200 ft.lbs. minimum, 350 ft.lbs. maximum, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
 
Thank you so much. I do have the new spacer and I can dial my impact to 200 pnds. Just got it from the dealer yesterday for 5 bucks. You rock.
 

Bounty__Hunter said:
I've got the YJ FSM. Recommends installing a new collapsible preload spacer (what we call a crush sleeve) and then torquing to 200 ft.lbs. minimum, 350 ft.lbs. maximum, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.

almost there - what's important when torquing down on the crush sleeve is the pinion bearing pre-load (measured in inch-pounds) - the following is an xlent reference install manual for doing diff setup - i suggest reading thru it even if only to learn how it's done - it has the specs on the last page - i've setup a few axles in my day :D

http://www.ring-pinion.com/tech/yukoninst.pdf

hth -sudz
 
Nymisus said:
I have never used a torque wrench, I just tighten it by hand.......works just as good and I have done a decent amount of work on my YJ

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Thanks again. I kept reading about the preload but realy did not understand it. Going to read this now. Wouldnt you know I happen to have a inch pound torque wrench. bought it by mistake when I was looking for a foot pound torque wrench.
 

as long as you check everything often enough, there isn't a problem.....I guess you could over tighten them, but it takes common sense when it gets to hard to turn, you are done...
I've done my BL, MML, front and rear bumpers, water pump, altenator, starter, throttle body, and axles....haven't even had a bolt come loose or had to tighten it back down when rechecking, which I do at least once every 2 weeks or so
 
pushead said:
Thanks again. I kept reading about the preload but realy did not understand it. Going to read this now. Wouldnt you know I happen to have a inch pound torque wrench. bought it by mistake when I was looking for a foot pound torque wrench.

when you tighten down on the axle pinion nut it begins to crush the sleeve & shortly after that is starts to push the pinion bearing against the race - what you are actually measuring in inch pounds is how much force the pinion nut is pressing against the bearing/race assembly - you're basically measuring the drag on the bearing so to speak called "preload" - too much force & you'll kill the bearing - the crush sleeve acts like a "spring" when you start to crush it - that's why you don't want to over torque it - hope this all makes sense - if not ask some questions & i'll try to talk you thru it

-sudz
 
header collector gaskets

THank you all for your help. The operation went smooth this saturday. Sunday I was jumping sand doons. Had some nice air on a few of them and didnt brake any thing. Also rides like a caddie now. That bearing must have been going bad for a long time.
 
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