Death Wobble
- Thread starter 04wranglerJack
- Start date
That'll do it.
While you've got the wrench out, check how tight the trackbar is as well
While you've got the wrench out, check how tight the trackbar is as well
2TJ_Rockriding
New member
Was death wobble constant or only at certain speed? My 02 tj has recently decided to have one but only from 35-40mph
04wranglerJack
New member
2TJ_Rockriding said:
It was at varying speeds, typically when I hit a bump or around 30-40, 60-65, or deceleration without use of the brake. You may have something lose underneath
2TJ_Rockriding
New member
That is sounding almost the exact same. She is parked and the '00 is back in action until I can find time to get her in the air and diagnose properly. Good to have starting point
JPNinPA
Well-known member
Do a dry steering test to see what is loose. Most common is the track bar. But check tie rod ends and steering gear.
Here's the article I wrote if it helps anyone:
http://www.jeepz.com/forum/suspension/29510-wrangler-death-wobble-what-causes-how-fix.html
http://www.jeepz.com/forum/suspension/29510-wrangler-death-wobble-what-causes-how-fix.html
Dragon5126
New member
This doesnt make me too happy... same problem with my 06 TJ 30K miles, wobble hits at 60, and everything seems tight and solid. It hasnt been abused and as you can tell by the mileage it hasnt been run all that much either. I just put a 2" spacer kit in and it went nuts... checked everything while I had it apart for wear and loose nuts and bolts. Rotated tires, replaced the front sway bar links as one was damaged, and the replacements had zercs in them so both were replaced with the serviceable part as opposed to nonserviceable OEM item... Not happy at the moment!
Did you have aligned after lifting it?
Dragon5126
New member
I did the down and dirty scribe and measure to ensure there was no change in the toe in, but since it was a simple 2inch spacer lift nothing else as of yet, there is no pull on a level surface and the steering wheel is straight... chalked tire is showing even wear across the tire. I have a feeling this is going to be a matter of throwing parts at it to find the problem... as everything seems fine, it appears that its a matter of accumulated wear between parts...
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
changing the steering geometry by two inches can change your caster just enough to pick up a little wobble. Run it over and have the front aligned before you start throwing money. Firestone offers a life time alignment package...and knowing how much I wheel I see them about every three or four months...they hate me.
After installing my spacer lift the toe was way off. Take a look at my alignment sheet:
http://www.jeepz.com/forum/suspensi...alling-rubicon-express-2-coil-spacer-kit.html
http://www.jeepz.com/forum/suspensi...alling-rubicon-express-2-coil-spacer-kit.html
Catoctin Jeep
Official Vendor
I was going to chime in and tell you that the toe in is going to be off. So your alignment should have cured the problem.
Dragon5126
New member
Man after looking at what you had to go through to do the rear end lift I was amazed Mine was so simple it was shocking... jack up the rear end throw jack stands under the frame just infront of the control arms so the wheels are off the ground without the jack, then support the axel remove the wheels and shocks, lower (gentley) the axel and push down on the side you are working on and by hand pull the spring out, go to the other side and do the same... pull the bump stops, unbolt the cups, push the cups into the spacer and rebolt them into place, push bump stop into place and use jack under axle at that pint to seat the bumpstop, then use the jack to lift the opposite side of the axle and push the spring in place lower the axle move jack to the opposite side and do the same... install the shocks and the wheels. The hardest part I faced was converting the upper shock mounts to frame mounts, carefully aligning the shock mount stud up with the original location and drilling the frame and bolting it in place. This gives a much stronger mount than the thin plate the original mounts were bolted to which are prone to breaking off and literally ramming up through the floor under the rear seat if the axle bends. The front end was even easier, again the only thing I had to disconnect was the lower bolt on the swaybar links and the shocks which were being replaced anyway. With air tools the front end took less than 45 minutes with a break for a cold beverage and the rear end about an hour and a half due to the measuring and drilling for the new mount. I've been spinning wrenches for over 40 years and have a very comprehensive tool box between what I inherited from my late father and what I have purchased myself. I WONT tackle a job unless I have exactly the tools needed. Ironically I have also found that sometimes the specified tools just suck and there are better ways, like a good mechanics prybar and a chisel instead of a press or c clamp for compressing disc break calipers... gently tap the chisel inbetween the rotor and the worn pad until you have enough room to insert the pry bar, then use the bar to compress the piston into the caliper before unbolting the caliper from the mount. done with finess you wont even mark the rotor and you also have removed all tension from the caliper making it easier to remove it when you unbolt the pins, this cuts the time the job takes in half... Dont even get me going on the ten minute motor mount swap!
Dragon5126
New member
Stabilizer was replaced about a month ago, that screen door closer Chrysler calls a stabilizer could be compressed with just a couple ounces of pressure when I removed it.... years back I had an 86 suzuki samuri, it's factory stabilizer was twice the size of the oem on the TJ...
