cj5 or a cj7
- Thread starter nwa
- Start date
Saddle Tramp
New member
At this point in time, all CJs probably have high miles. The most important thing is the condition of the rig in general. I mean, even if a CJ has low miles but was run on the back roads at a high rate of speed until the thing is twisted and beat to death I’ll take the high mileage CJ that was mostly driven around town any day.
The main thing to look for besides what appears to be bent and twisted frame is rust. Rust can claim the frame, body, and drive train components; all of which can be repaired or replaced but it cost money to do so. I didn’t see where you are from but any of the areas that use salt on the roads in the winter are going to produce a lot of rust on the vehicles. CJ bodies are not galvanized making things even worse. Look for the best “plum†for the money, paying attention to condition and what “goodies†the jeep comes with.
As far as CJ5 or CJ 7 it is a personal preference. The 5 is shorter with the 7 being 10†longer than the same generation 5 giving the edge to the 7 as far as comfort of ride. The extra length of the 7 can be helpful if you decide to climb rock ledges or walls as the longer wheel base helps keep you from tipping over backwards during a steep accent. If you tend to be of a more portly and/or tall physic, go with the 7 as there will be a little more room to push the front seat back from the steering wheel. A 7 will also be easier than a 5 to find a hard top for if that is important to you as the tops were available as an OEM option on the 7 where the 5 was not.
I drive a 1978 CJ5 but my first jeep was a 5 so that’s what I am use to. In fact the jeep I had more fun with than any of the others I have owned was a CJ2A which is even shorter yet; I would have to be carful if I wanted to climb to steep a hill but I could turn that thing around on any old logging/fire road in the woods with no problems. (Oh yeah I guess I forgot, the greenies have made it so we can’t enjoy a drive down an old logging/fire road anymore so I guess “short†is not all it use to be cracked up to be anymore; go with the 7 then.)
Good Plum Hunting!
The main thing to look for besides what appears to be bent and twisted frame is rust. Rust can claim the frame, body, and drive train components; all of which can be repaired or replaced but it cost money to do so. I didn’t see where you are from but any of the areas that use salt on the roads in the winter are going to produce a lot of rust on the vehicles. CJ bodies are not galvanized making things even worse. Look for the best “plum†for the money, paying attention to condition and what “goodies†the jeep comes with.
As far as CJ5 or CJ 7 it is a personal preference. The 5 is shorter with the 7 being 10†longer than the same generation 5 giving the edge to the 7 as far as comfort of ride. The extra length of the 7 can be helpful if you decide to climb rock ledges or walls as the longer wheel base helps keep you from tipping over backwards during a steep accent. If you tend to be of a more portly and/or tall physic, go with the 7 as there will be a little more room to push the front seat back from the steering wheel. A 7 will also be easier than a 5 to find a hard top for if that is important to you as the tops were available as an OEM option on the 7 where the 5 was not.
I drive a 1978 CJ5 but my first jeep was a 5 so that’s what I am use to. In fact the jeep I had more fun with than any of the others I have owned was a CJ2A which is even shorter yet; I would have to be carful if I wanted to climb to steep a hill but I could turn that thing around on any old logging/fire road in the woods with no problems. (Oh yeah I guess I forgot, the greenies have made it so we can’t enjoy a drive down an old logging/fire road anymore so I guess “short†is not all it use to be cracked up to be anymore; go with the 7 then.)
Good Plum Hunting!
Last edited:
ok to answer some of your ?s im gunna live ether in pennsylvania or north carolina with my jeep. can i galvanize the frame and other parts so they dont rust? Im not gunna rock climb in my jeep prolly mudding and maybe some forest activities and as a daily driver i know im gunna have to fix things here and there so i know thats understandable. my friend told me to go with a cj 5 or a cj 7 cause they wont break as much as the yjs and up is this true? i just dont want to get one and it break down constintly if yall know what i mean but any info or pointers or facts would be great thx yall!
I think you are getting some bad info from your friend.
As far as reliability, see post #3.
Seriously, CJ's are at least 20 years old, they all have had several owners, many different types of maintenance schedules (or lack thereof), many different types of use, many years for things to get worn out. There are just way too many variables to make general statements like your friend has. Especially considering that the 1970 on up CJ's were made by AMC, which arguably was not known as a high quality era. I am not knocking the CJ, in fact I love them. The reliability of any older vehicle is dependent on it's maintenance and use history. As a general rule of thumb the older the vehicle the more maintenance it will require for many different reasons.
As the Jeep has developed over the years things have improved such as frame strength, fit and finish of the tops and doors, ride quality, etc. I have seen no such correlation between CJ,YJ,TJ and increased maintenance other than what can be attributed to the maintenance history and how the vehicle was used.
Sounds like you want to drive a Jeep and not have to work on it much, thats understandable. Then don't buy something old with an unknown history. I have a 48 CJ2a and that is high maintenance compared to my 77CJ5 I had which was high maintenance compared to my current 98 TJ. See a pattern there.
As far as reliability, see post #3.
Seriously, CJ's are at least 20 years old, they all have had several owners, many different types of maintenance schedules (or lack thereof), many different types of use, many years for things to get worn out. There are just way too many variables to make general statements like your friend has. Especially considering that the 1970 on up CJ's were made by AMC, which arguably was not known as a high quality era. I am not knocking the CJ, in fact I love them. The reliability of any older vehicle is dependent on it's maintenance and use history. As a general rule of thumb the older the vehicle the more maintenance it will require for many different reasons.
As the Jeep has developed over the years things have improved such as frame strength, fit and finish of the tops and doors, ride quality, etc. I have seen no such correlation between CJ,YJ,TJ and increased maintenance other than what can be attributed to the maintenance history and how the vehicle was used.
Sounds like you want to drive a Jeep and not have to work on it much, thats understandable. Then don't buy something old with an unknown history. I have a 48 CJ2a and that is high maintenance compared to my 77CJ5 I had which was high maintenance compared to my current 98 TJ. See a pattern there.
Last edited:
Saddle Tramp
New member
Well, not sure there is enough space here but this is the Readers Digest version in my opinion. My opinions are based personal experience having owned a 1947 CJ2A, a 1972, 1978, & 1981 CJ5s, a 1989 YJ, a 1993 YJ, 3 – 1994 YJs, and 2 TJs:
Any CJ built before 1972 is in a separate class. The motors and drive trains offered were typically weaker than the 1972 & up. Frames can be an issue as they were typically a C channel and need to be boxed if you plan on doing any hard wheeling or drive train upgrades and the gearing tends to also be lower (numerically higher). Only the Renegade package in 1969 to 1971 had boxed frames. (I could be wrong on the starting date here) Would I use one for a daily driver? Yes and I have but freeway commuting would be limited even with an aftermarket overdrive
1972 to 1975 CJs also have a C channel frame and tend to crack jut behind the motor mounts as well as other areas and will need to be reinforced but they come out of the box with either a AMC I6 or the AMC 304 and a Dana 44 rear-end. The x-case is a Dana 20 which is a quieter and probably stronger case but has a not so good low range and no overdrive capability.
1976 to 1986 CJs all have fully boxed frames; the rear ends tend to be the weak link with the AMC 20 two piece axels as standard equipment except for 1986 when Dana 44 were used after the AMC 20s were all used up. From 1980 on the x-case was changed to a Dana 300, good case with better low range gearing.
All CJs drive like a truck. The frames are narrower than the Wranglers making them more susceptible to rolling.
A YJ Wrangler will have a wider than a CJ boxed frame and flatter springs making them a much more stable vehicle with an improved ride. The YJ wrangle will drive more like a car than the CJ but you still get a trail worthy rig. Although the AMC 20 rear-end is gone the Dana 35 isn’t much of an improvement. The I4 motors all came with fuel injection and the I6 was fuel injected starting in 1991; holding out for one that has factory fuel injection gets my vote. I personally dislike square headlights but you can put a CJ nose on them with a little work.
TJs come with coil springs and will have the best ride and road manners of the lot. Dana 44 axels are available in some applications too but typically a TJ is going to cost you more money. (I for one never come across the great deals the boys in JP magazine claim to find.)
Again, the choice is yours and no matter which model you choose try to not get jeep fever and buy to quickly; look for the plum.
Any CJ built before 1972 is in a separate class. The motors and drive trains offered were typically weaker than the 1972 & up. Frames can be an issue as they were typically a C channel and need to be boxed if you plan on doing any hard wheeling or drive train upgrades and the gearing tends to also be lower (numerically higher). Only the Renegade package in 1969 to 1971 had boxed frames. (I could be wrong on the starting date here) Would I use one for a daily driver? Yes and I have but freeway commuting would be limited even with an aftermarket overdrive
1972 to 1975 CJs also have a C channel frame and tend to crack jut behind the motor mounts as well as other areas and will need to be reinforced but they come out of the box with either a AMC I6 or the AMC 304 and a Dana 44 rear-end. The x-case is a Dana 20 which is a quieter and probably stronger case but has a not so good low range and no overdrive capability.
1976 to 1986 CJs all have fully boxed frames; the rear ends tend to be the weak link with the AMC 20 two piece axels as standard equipment except for 1986 when Dana 44 were used after the AMC 20s were all used up. From 1980 on the x-case was changed to a Dana 300, good case with better low range gearing.
All CJs drive like a truck. The frames are narrower than the Wranglers making them more susceptible to rolling.
A YJ Wrangler will have a wider than a CJ boxed frame and flatter springs making them a much more stable vehicle with an improved ride. The YJ wrangle will drive more like a car than the CJ but you still get a trail worthy rig. Although the AMC 20 rear-end is gone the Dana 35 isn’t much of an improvement. The I4 motors all came with fuel injection and the I6 was fuel injected starting in 1991; holding out for one that has factory fuel injection gets my vote. I personally dislike square headlights but you can put a CJ nose on them with a little work.
TJs come with coil springs and will have the best ride and road manners of the lot. Dana 44 axels are available in some applications too but typically a TJ is going to cost you more money. (I for one never come across the great deals the boys in JP magazine claim to find.)
Again, the choice is yours and no matter which model you choose try to not get jeep fever and buy to quickly; look for the plum.
Last edited:
wow guys yall are awesome soo much good information deff the best jeep forum i am apart of is this one! We use to have a 83 cj 7 and i loved it but dont remember it having much problems but i was also young. Both the jeeps im lookin at look like there garage kept one for 5500 and one for 6k.and i think my friend was refering to electrical stuff but who knows hes a chrysler hater so i think thats why he said go for the old stuff but who knows hes the only mechanic friend i have so ya. both of these jeeps look like there for beach stuff not much mountain or rock crawling stuff so any thoughts on that:?
Saddle Tramp
New member
The number of owners is not important between the two. The fact that neither is jacked up to the sky tells me there is a chance they weren’t road hard and put away wet, however I hope neither of them have been driving on the beach much, salt issues once again.
If not in equal condition go for the best one for the money, but if in equal condition which one has the most goodies? Go with your gut not the bling. I had two YJs for sale once, one was in bad shape but had a lift and fancy wheels, and the other was stock but was in great shape. A dad was buying for his kid and had called on the one in good shape but once the kid saw the lift and wheels it was all over, they left with the piece of crap.
If not in equal condition go for the best one for the money, but if in equal condition which one has the most goodies? Go with your gut not the bling. I had two YJs for sale once, one was in bad shape but had a lift and fancy wheels, and the other was stock but was in great shape. A dad was buying for his kid and had called on the one in good shape but once the kid saw the lift and wheels it was all over, they left with the piece of crap.
ussoldier14e
New member
i found a 1970's era jeep renegade for $4,800 from a used car lot. I dont know much about Jeeps so i could really use some advice. I wanted to post pics but they wouldnt let me take em. The interior and exterior is in good shape and the motor is stock but in good condition. there is a small tear in the seat and it could use a paintjob due to fading. It has very minimal rust. Is this a good deal or are there better ones out there
cdlongjr
New member
Josh,
Ya need to really check out the frame & driveline. Drive it on & off road. Check, check & recheck the body for rust/bondo. That's a pretty steep price. Will it pass state inspection? I bought what I thought was a cherry 1983 CJ-5, only to replace the entire brake system including lines after one bulkhead fitting blew out @ the state inspection station during the brake check.
Ya need to really check out the frame & driveline. Drive it on & off road. Check, check & recheck the body for rust/bondo. That's a pretty steep price. Will it pass state inspection? I bought what I thought was a cherry 1983 CJ-5, only to replace the entire brake system including lines after one bulkhead fitting blew out @ the state inspection station during the brake check.
Saddle Tramp
New member
I would think a reputable dealer would have no problem with allowing you to take some pictures. If the jeep is 1972 to 1975 $4,800 is too much. If 1977 to 1979 is still may be too much. I left out 1976 because it is a bast*rd year, some old part, some new parts and is worth more than the previous generation but not as much as the 77s & up. It is going to be hard to help you here without additional information and/or pictures. If this rig looks like it was driven hard and put away wet take a pass at that price but if the little old lady from Pasadena has owned it you may have one worth starting to negotiate. I say start at $2,500 & try to settle for $3,500.
Similar threads
