Well, I haven't hooked everything up right with my 85 cj7 body swap, and it will now turn over but not start. anyone have a flowchart for me to try and track down the problem?
CJ won't start after tub swap.
- Thread starter TerryMason
- Start date
Inspector-Gadget
New member
:shock:
Thanks for the help guys, I have to get this thing running soon, as I promised the wife it would be out of the garage by the 17th (2 weeks...).
So, per Gadget's suggestion, I hooked up a timing light, and tried to start the engine. I got one flash at the first turn, then the engine cranked about 15 times, with no flashes, then when I turned the key off, I got one last flash - 15 to 20 turns, with only 2 flashes. I tried a couple more times to start it, but there were no more flashes at all.
So, to recap, I have an 85 cj7 frame, engine, and front clip. I replaced the body with an 88 YJ, and put in the 85 dash and computer. I don't think that I did anything to the engine (no pulling wires), but something could have slipped off.
I've also noticed that the wipers and fan do not work, so I'm going to run a temporary ground from the battery to the dash next.
I'm not really sure where to go from here.
So, per Gadget's suggestion, I hooked up a timing light, and tried to start the engine. I got one flash at the first turn, then the engine cranked about 15 times, with no flashes, then when I turned the key off, I got one last flash - 15 to 20 turns, with only 2 flashes. I tried a couple more times to start it, but there were no more flashes at all.
So, to recap, I have an 85 cj7 frame, engine, and front clip. I replaced the body with an 88 YJ, and put in the 85 dash and computer. I don't think that I did anything to the engine (no pulling wires), but something could have slipped off.
I've also noticed that the wipers and fan do not work, so I'm going to run a temporary ground from the battery to the dash next.
I'm not really sure where to go from here.
OK, ran another ground, but no change. I get 12.6 V from and bare metal on the dash. Still no wipers or fan.
Terry
make sure that the wire that attaches to the 2nd post on the starter solenoid is connected. this wire provides 12 full volts to the coil while cranking over the motor. it sounds like it is not on there and the flashes you are getting from the timing light are from when the key passes through the run position and the coil gets it's six volts. also check the ballast resistor. it reduces the running voltage to 6 volts. if it is burnt out or hooked up backwards this could be causing the problem.
make sure that the wire that attaches to the 2nd post on the starter solenoid is connected. this wire provides 12 full volts to the coil while cranking over the motor. it sounds like it is not on there and the flashes you are getting from the timing light are from when the key passes through the run position and the coil gets it's six volts. also check the ballast resistor. it reduces the running voltage to 6 volts. if it is burnt out or hooked up backwards this could be causing the problem.
fourtrail said:
:? ballast resistor? What does that look like?
Thanks,
Terry
Inspector-Gadget
New member
:shock:
Thanks so much for the help guys! I think I'm almost there
Heater - not plugged in on the firewall side - fixed
Wipers - not plugged in - worry about it later.
Ignition - I had done the TFI upgrade earlier, and had spliced the wires too many time I think. I simply cut back to good wire and used new good connectors. The jeep now turns over, and plashes te timing light at proper intervalls. The battery is far too weak to get it to start up yet, but I've got the charger on it, so that should be a matter of time.
Any tips on starting a motor that hasn't run in 2 - 3 years? I've got some starting fluid, and will use that. The oil was pretty fresh when I parked it.
Hopefully I can get this thing running this weekend
Thanks again,
Terry
Heater - not plugged in on the firewall side - fixed
Wipers - not plugged in - worry about it later.
Ignition - I had done the TFI upgrade earlier, and had spliced the wires too many time I think. I simply cut back to good wire and used new good connectors. The jeep now turns over, and plashes te timing light at proper intervalls. The battery is far too weak to get it to start up yet, but I've got the charger on it, so that should be a matter of time.
Any tips on starting a motor that hasn't run in 2 - 3 years? I've got some starting fluid, and will use that. The oil was pretty fresh when I parked it.
Hopefully I can get this thing running this weekend
Thanks again,
Terry
4.2 rea main seal?
Sorry, what I meant was that I hook the voltmeter to the positive terminal, then touch the negative voltmeter prod to teh dash, and it registers 12V, meaning that I had a good ground to the dash.
Terry
avyoung said:
Sorry, what I meant was that I hook the voltmeter to the positive terminal, then touch the negative voltmeter prod to teh dash, and it registers 12V, meaning that I had a good ground to the dash.
Terry
I would definetaly change the oil and filter before you start it. when a motor has sat like that without being run it gets condensation in the oil and should be changed. I would avoid the starting fluid, that is a good way to blow a head gasket. put in a new set of spark plugs, cap and rotor to make sure you will have good spark and dump a small amount of gas into the carb if you have 2 stroke oil use a small amount of this first, it will give extra lube to the top end of the motor. make sure the carb is clean and the float is not stuck so when it does start to run it will continue. While you were cranking the motor over to check for spark did you ever get oil pressure? you may want to get a pre-luber (a shaft that engages the oil pump with the distributor removed that can be driven with a drill) so the motor will be well lubed for when it does fire over.
good luck and happy Jeeping.
good luck and happy Jeeping.
Inspector-Gadget
New member
:shock:
LBR
New member
Fourtrail hit it bang on - change oil & filter - I like pulling the plugs and generously squirting in Marvels Mystery Oil in all cyls, cranking several times with battery on charger to lube top end, reinstall plugs and fire in the hole - if it fires but won't keep running, ask self "the gas in the tank is HOW old? LBR
OK, new plugs, synthetic oil change, and 5 gallons of premium gas, and a new battery.
I crank the heck out of it, and it starts to catch a couple of times, but no go. It seems to crank easy when I don't press the gas, but when I put it to the floor, it seems to labor when it cranks. I also hear some clanking / ticking / maybe poping from the engine (I'm thinking a non-lubracated valve?).
Any more ideas? my timing light flashes, and from the catching I think I'm on the right path. I may just have to keep trying for a couple of days I guess.
I crank the heck out of it, and it starts to catch a couple of times, but no go. It seems to crank easy when I don't press the gas, but when I put it to the floor, it seems to labor when it cranks. I also hear some clanking / ticking / maybe poping from the engine (I'm thinking a non-lubracated valve?).
Any more ideas? my timing light flashes, and from the catching I think I'm on the right path. I may just have to keep trying for a couple of days I guess.
Inspector-Gadget
New member
:shock:
"50 cent G-unit jeep"
OK, more progress.
I had to by a new 1000 cca battery to get it going, but now I'm to a point that it will start for a few seconds, and die out quickly. However, I think there is still an electrical issue.
There is a slow battery drain, I can deal with that later.
If the ignition is off, and I unplug either of the wires going to the coil (not the spark plug), there is a visible spark, as if the coil is hot all the time. Also, when the ignition is in the run position, it seems normal, and the voltmeter shows 12volts, but when I switch from run to off, the engine makes a sound, kind of like it is relaxing (as if it was about to turn over, then goes to natural rest).
Also, I still have the timing light hooked up, and it will start and run for 30 seconds once or twice, then the timing light gives no flashes (on the 3rd try), and the engine just cranks (no spark). I can wait, or just jiggle the wires, and it will get the spark back. Probably a loose wire, but I can't track it down. Possibly a bad coil? If it was bad, then it wouldn't work at all right?
Sometimes, the timing light will flash when I switch from off to run position.
Hope this makes sense.
Terry
OK, more progress.
I had to by a new 1000 cca battery to get it going, but now I'm to a point that it will start for a few seconds, and die out quickly. However, I think there is still an electrical issue.
There is a slow battery drain, I can deal with that later.
If the ignition is off, and I unplug either of the wires going to the coil (not the spark plug), there is a visible spark, as if the coil is hot all the time. Also, when the ignition is in the run position, it seems normal, and the voltmeter shows 12volts, but when I switch from run to off, the engine makes a sound, kind of like it is relaxing (as if it was about to turn over, then goes to natural rest).
Also, I still have the timing light hooked up, and it will start and run for 30 seconds once or twice, then the timing light gives no flashes (on the 3rd try), and the engine just cranks (no spark). I can wait, or just jiggle the wires, and it will get the spark back. Probably a loose wire, but I can't track it down. Possibly a bad coil? If it was bad, then it wouldn't work at all right?
Sometimes, the timing light will flash when I switch from off to run position.
Hope this makes sense.
Terry
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