Cj dies for no reason

[Buck hour]

bet you have a pin hole in the float like I did carters are good for this
who ever had the jeep before me attempted to fix it but it came back causing it to run good till float filled with gas and died sit 5 mins run good again than dies and sounds almost like the same symptoms your having

another culprit could be a small piece of debris in your fuel input port
rust dirt ect

I would agree with that. But she will run for hours ,sometimes, before dying.

 

[superj]

so you have replaced all hte wires also? all the plugs where wires connect, everything? that is why i am saying grab the wires and shake. it sounds like a connection or a wire or something.

if you have already replaced all that then, i have no idea, with out physically being there.

your coil, checks out, even when its hot? the resistance is proper?

 

[JPNinPA]

I just replaced all the battery leads and ground wire.

So you did the battery. What about the alternator ground or the engine ground? Any one of these could cause the issue.

 

[Buck hour]

So you did the battery. What about the alternator ground or the engine ground? Any one of these could cause the issue.

Ground from Battery to engine block is new. The positive from bat to solenoid is new. The double wires and ground from alt to solenoid have new ends on both sides.

 

[Buck hour]

Here are some pix of what I have. Sorry my garage is kinda dark

 

[JPNinPA]

Thanks! I'm stumped for now. All I oculd say is to watch your gauges and see if anything spikes or dies just before shutting down. I'm still guessing electrical. Possibly a short somewhere.

 

[sweetpeet]

What condition is your distributor in? Could be faulty

 

[JPNinPA]

Buck Hour
While reviewing your images I realized you got a lot comming off that positive terminal. Is all that all ad on circuits? If so did you size the battery and alternator correctly? If you have a multi meter check the battery voltage when it will not start or when the engine dies.

 

[Buck hour]

Buck Hour
While reviewing your images I realized you got a lot comming off that positive terminal. Is all that all ad on circuits? If so did you size the battery and alternator correctly? If you have a multi meter check the battery voltage when it will not start or when the engine dies.

The positive terminal on the solenoid?

 

[JPNinPA]

On the battery terminal. From theis pic.

 

[superj]

you just helped me with something on my jeep, by posting your wiring pics. one thing on mine is not right, compared to yours so i am going to set it up like yours.


my 87 was giving me trouble the whole weekend. i drove to san antonio to pick up a new bumper from a buddy who bought it for me for christmas. anyways, jeep kept just dying out of hte blue and would start up perfect but then would die again in a little while. sometimes it wouldn't do it for hours on end and then sometimes it would do it a few times in a row. turned out the float was sticking in the up position and blocking flow into the carb. bowl would empty and engine would shut. me cranking it over would loosen the float and it would drop letting the bowl refill.

 

[Buck hour]

On the battery terminal. From theis pic.

Oh thats the negative all I have on it are the ground for the heater fan and grounds for the ignition. But I found the culprit! Turns out the solenoid advanced auto parts has listed for a 77 cj is the wrong part!! It has to be from a/c deco.

 

[Buck hour]

Thanks man I'll look into that after work tomorrow! See if I can get her back on the road.

 

[carnuck]

Horseshoe connector on the coil is a REAL PITA on those! It'll heat up and disconnect as you're driving then reconnect when it cools.... or not.

 

[CJDan]

I had this same exact problem, it works fine and drives fine correct? But sometimes it will just die almost like its starving for gas. Mine drove for about 1 hour while stalling/dieing about 6 times, but its nothing with the engine, its the carburetor, sorry here for my lack of information about carburetors, but the flap that opens and closes when its on idle or driving is closing... its like it has a lack in suction for the flap to open and close, so while its closing the engine gets hot and it starts to die out causing it too flood, then as soon as its done stalling about 30 sec later it starts back up. I have not fixed this perminant yet because I am fixing my jeep and no need for me to worry about that now but what i did was keep it open after i start it by tying the flap up so its open a little, i took it out and it did not stall once, i suggest maybe rebuilding the carburetor, but i am not sure if you have a new one or what, but this kinda sunds like my situation.

 

[superj]

Tthe choke plate- from the discription above

 

[Buck hour]

I actually rewired the whole truck and now she runs like a champ! Apparently the last "mechanic" thought it a good idea to run the wires for the ignition control box right next to the engine block...

 

[sweetpeet]

I actually rewired the whole truck and now she runs like a champ! Apparently the last "mechanic" thought it a good idea to run the wires for the ignition control box right next to the engine block...

Yay for DIY mechanics haha

 

[Buck hour]

Hahaa I don't know if it was DIY or just lack presence of the common sense fairy. Engine operating surface temps are bad for wires! Duh lol

 

[tjlboise]

You should definitely try adjusting the carb. You're gonna kick yourself if you keep buying new parts, and it turns out to be it was that all along.