Back to a AMC 20 from a Dana 60..........

[Robrt-Stephens]

I have had a 60 here at the place for a year or so and now was experimenting with it and measuring it against my trussed and welded tube 20 with the new Yukon axles and ARBs and lo, the 20's ring and pinion are bigger than the 60.

I am amazed. This is news to me, totally. Doing further research, AMG has the Dana 20s in the Hummer 1-Military. I am further amazed. I am going to revert the 60 back to the 20 and call it good.

Everything works in opposite it seems. The only thing needed with the 20 is to weld the tubes to the diff case, truss it with a 3/8" steel web across the top, not the bottom of the axle housing, and solid axles and bearings.

Odd this, and comments welcome please.

 

[Junkpile]

D60= 9.75"
D44= 8.50"
AMC M20- 8.875"

The ring gear in the AMC 20 is between a D44 and a D60 in size. It's also between them in strength, after you address a couple of the 20s problems. Sounds like you have that under control already.

I'd suggest making your truss from 1/4" steel, and bending a lip on it. It will be easier to make, lighter, and more rigid than a flat 3/8" plate. Instead of fully welding the tubes, run a support gusset from your truss to the pinion snout on the diff. The gusset will keep the center section from spinning on the tubes, then just tack the tubes in a couple of places on the bottom. It won't weaken the cast housing as much as a full weld. Good luck with it.

 

[Sully]

I have a similar setup. I have the superior 1 piece shafts, an ARB, 4.88, and a truss. My truss is a conferr and it hangs under the diff. :? I want to make one that goes over the diff instead of under. My conferr get bashed so much. This summer I had is almost off just by dragging it over rocks. I am not very happy with it. Got any pics of your setup? In particular the truss.

 

[Robrt-Stephens]

I have a similar setup. I have the superior 1 piece shafts, an ARB, 4.88, and a truss. My truss is a conferr and it hangs under the diff. :? I want to make one that goes over the diff instead of under. My conferr get bashed so much. This summer I had is almost off just by dragging it over rocks. I am not very happy with it. Got any pics of your setup? In particular the truss.

Thanks for the input from both of you and I copied the measurements on the rearends for my reference. Thank you.

I had already trussed and welded up the tubes on this 20 back in 1999 when I got my second set of ARBs for VEX and went with the 4.10s. The photo I have is not s clear as the CAD drawing, so here is the drawing that I made to then build the truss.

It is 3/8ths inch thick and pretty tough. This is the back view looking forward while the plate is welded to the rim of the diff housing behind the cover, and along the top of the tube as a seam. The holes are stregthening holes.

Is this helpful?

 

[Sully]

RE: plugs and wires

Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

 

[Junkpile]

What classifies those cutouts as strengthening holes?

 

[88Wrangles]

What classifies those cutouts as strengthening holes?

True...If they're just plain, cutout holes--they aren't strengthening it at all. Besides that it's a very good design.

 

[Junkpile]

I've got the Carb-blues...

I would be more inclined to think they're decreasing strength. In the drawing the holes are on the edge of the plate, with no webbing under them. The strength of the whole truss is dependant on the 1"x.375" piece of material left above those cutouts.


A drawing can be deceptive, especially a 2D drawing. Do you have any pics Robert?