AX15 transmission question

[Ragtopman]

Can anyone tell me the difference between the YJ and the MJ AX15? I am looking for a transmission for my 91 YJ and was offered one locally from an MJ the seller states the "Clocking" is different but i should be able to swap any way. What is the clocking? Can i swap it in directly? If not how difficult is it to change the "Clocking"

 

[currupt4130]

They're probably referring to the clocking of the tcase on the back of the transmission. It shouldnt be any different, but it may be. It should be fine, the clocking difference wouldn't be more than a degree or two. It's not like the MJ's had a passenger drop and the YJ's had a driver drop, they all used the same side drop cases, with the same bolt pattern

 

[lah2420]

If the MJ uses the same clocking as the Cherokee, it will be 10 degrees off from the YJ transmission. There is no difference in the transfer case, but the holes in the transmission are drilled in different spots. What that translates to is that the front drive shaft will be lower and will probably hit the skid plate. I found a writeup on redrilling an automatic which should work the same at:
www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw4/reclock.htm

 

[Snitty]

I put a cherokee AX15 in my YJ. I did have slight issues with the front shaft hitting the skidplate. After my SOA I had worse issues. I got around that by heating and bending (beating with a hammer) my skidplate (while off the vehicle) until it allowed for the shaft to clear

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

You can redrill the transmission flange to clock the transfer case up, may even be able to get more clearance than the original YJ 231.

Yes both the MJ and XJ hang the front output of the TC lower than the YJ and TJ.

 

[Ragtopman]

So my 4" lift will just increase the problem then. Ok thanks for the info I'll wait for a YJ trans to come along

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Why not redrill the mounting pattern in the output flange of the transmission? This way you can clock the 231 higher than stock, allowing for a flatter crossmember.

 

[Ragtopman]

Sounds over my head I'm more a part changer than a fabricator

 

[currupt4130]

No, it's not a big deal to redrill the holes. The easiest way to do it would be to get the gasket that goes between the transmission and tcase, align it, then rotate it clockwise a few degrees. Mark and center punch your holes, and drill them.

 

[Snitty]

There is no gasket that goes between them.

If I had known of the problem before I did my replacement, I would have redrilled the holes. I also would have done it during my SYE but I had already modified the skid plate.

Hold a piece of cardboard up to the stock transmission flange.. trace the outer edge. Mark for the holes. Transfer that pattern to the "new" transmission and drill the holes. Done...

Also... I found that the job was a lot easier for me when I replaced all of the studs and nuts with simple bolts. I only left one as a stud for alignment reasons, which I found later to be not necessary

 

[currupt4130]

The gasket is available. The dana 300 has a gasket, and is the same bolt pattern. Sorry I didn't specify.

 

[Snitty]

The transmission has an output seal that the transfercase input mates into. There should be no fluid between the two components. Though I guess if some fluid would happen to leak into there, I imagine a gasket would be a good idea to have between them. But there is no gasket or sealer that comes stock between the ax15 and transfercase.

But if it is available... then you're right, it could be used as a template to drill

 

[lah2420]

If all of the ax15s are the same, there is a small drain hole in the flange of the transmission. A gasket wouldn't do a lot of good. I found the hole after I had used RTV and sealed the flange. A lot of good the RTV is doing.

 

[Snitty]

Yeah, that weep hole is an indicator to let you know if your transmission output seal is bad