AC Compressor/Idle question - **updated**
- Thread starter TwistedCU
- Start date
jay79cj7
New member
You can buy a can of R-134a with a UV tracer already in it for about a buck more. That's what I used last time I recharged mine because I know I have a slow leak somewhere. I have been too lazy to go look for the leaks so far though, so I can't say whether its any good. (When I need AC, I just drive the CJ)
I have the exact same problem with my '99 Cherokee and it has been driving me nuts. To make matters worse, I live in a climate where the air is extremely dry and temperatures are usually cool. So I really don't need the AC for the defrost or for it's more common purpose. I'm wondering, can I just completely unplug the AC?
MudderChuck
New member
snappy said:
Not as familiar with the newer models as the old. but on mine, pulling the A/C relay gives me water heated air in defrost, without the compressor coming on. Not good to let the A/C sit for months, better to run it every once and a while.
Normally in the heat position the defrost door, only opens half way, defrost is kind of anemic. Defrost door opens all the way in defrost, with or without A/C, but usually cuts off all the air to the panel and floor.
MudderChuck
New member
TwistedCopper said:XJNick said:
Well Nick you were right, I was wrong. Blowin hot air at me again
So if the garage says they didn't detect a leak, isn't there a dye I can have put in ?
Leaks are often so small they can take months to be noticed, a fast leak is usually in the high pressure side. Generally takes 10-15 years for a system to loose enough freon through osmosis, for it to be noticeable.
Usually leak at a joint or fitting. 134A is hard to test, they are turning out new testers for 134A, most every month, few seem to work well.
The stain method with the UV light works well, if it´s someplace that you can see. Leaks in the evaporator (heater A/C box) sometimes take a lot of 134A with stain, to show up on the carpet.
Unless your willing to pay somebody to look for a leak, by the hour, I´d put some pressure in the system and soap all the joints I could get to. Visually inspect the whole works with a flashlight, closely, for oil stains (freon is mixed with oil). If that didn´t produce any results.
Then push a little R-22 in the system, and use a good old fashioned freon leak detector, to at least narrrow it down to an area (like inside the heater A/C box.
If you have a leak, chances are your gonna have to vacuum the system and refill anyway, a little R-22, isn´t gonna hurt much and a lot easier to detect.
MudderChuck
New member
The R-22 is just to find the leak, then your gonna have to hook it up to a vacuum pump and get most all of it out of there. A little isn´t gonna hurt anything (whatevers left over, after the vacuum). You can use a regular old freon tester, which will tell you quick if there is freon in the heater box or for testing the condensor, after removing the grill. Just makes life easier, they are trying to get EPA approval for this method.
Don´t fire up the compressor with the R-22 in there, just do your leak test, with everything turned off. R-22 can build too much pressure, with the compressor running.
Don´t fire up the compressor with the R-22 in there, just do your leak test, with everything turned off. R-22 can build too much pressure, with the compressor running.
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