PLEASE HELP! It started with a coolant leak on my way home. I put water in it and could see a broken tube. I drove it 2 miles home and it was fine until the last end (I live on a hill) and it started to stutter. When I got home I shut it off normally. The next day I looked for the broken tube (taking the battery out in the process) but couldn't find where it connected on one end but the other attached just above the front differential. Re-connected everything to restart and see if I could find the leak again and it was dead. Only a buzzing noise. I jumped it and it started but then died 10 seconds later. Couldn't re-start after that, BUT lights and dash were still lit up and on even though there was no key in the ignition and every thing was off...even disconnected the jumper cables. I ended up having to disconnect a battery cable so every thing would shut off. Any ideas?
2003 Jeep Liberty 3.7
- Thread starter Dave K
- Start date
JPNinPA
Well-known member
Could be a few things here.
First make sure your battery Is good (load tested) connected properly and no corrosion on terminals connectors or connection points on the opposite ends.
Check all your fuses! Inside and under the hood.
Last one. Lights on key off. Possible cause is one broken bar pin. And two multifunction switch.
If you put the key in and turn to the on position and feel no clicks, the bar pin broke in the ignition.
The multifunction switch on many models go bad. These are not all causes but quickest to check.
The leak. Did you get a engine light or overheat? Or did it rupture all at once...? If you overheat above 215 deg the vehicle goes into safe mode and the engine shutters limiting power and rpm. This means something is really wrong.
How bad is/was the leak? Did you see where it was wet or dripping from?
A tube from the front diff is a vent tube. Just lets air in and out. The tube keeps the water out by ending above where you might submerse or splash up. Usually there is a plastic valve in this tube.
There might also be a tube off the expansion tank to the radiator and one that goes down below the bumper. This is so overheat fluid isn't splashed around U dear the hood.
Start here: disconnecting battery or weak battery can cause this.
EDIT: Do you have an alarm system?
A no crank or no start condition may develop due to electronic lockup of the wireless control module (WCM), also referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM). When this module fails the remote keyless entry system will also not operate. The WCM is commonly replaced to correct this concern.
Try unplugging it for 60 sec. It might start after that.
Regards,
JPNinPA
Sent using TapTalk
First make sure your battery Is good (load tested) connected properly and no corrosion on terminals connectors or connection points on the opposite ends.
Check all your fuses! Inside and under the hood.
Last one. Lights on key off. Possible cause is one broken bar pin. And two multifunction switch.
If you put the key in and turn to the on position and feel no clicks, the bar pin broke in the ignition.
The multifunction switch on many models go bad. These are not all causes but quickest to check.
The leak. Did you get a engine light or overheat? Or did it rupture all at once...? If you overheat above 215 deg the vehicle goes into safe mode and the engine shutters limiting power and rpm. This means something is really wrong.
How bad is/was the leak? Did you see where it was wet or dripping from?
A tube from the front diff is a vent tube. Just lets air in and out. The tube keeps the water out by ending above where you might submerse or splash up. Usually there is a plastic valve in this tube.
There might also be a tube off the expansion tank to the radiator and one that goes down below the bumper. This is so overheat fluid isn't splashed around U dear the hood.
Start here: disconnecting battery or weak battery can cause this.
EDIT: Do you have an alarm system?
A no crank or no start condition may develop due to electronic lockup of the wireless control module (WCM), also referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM). When this module fails the remote keyless entry system will also not operate. The WCM is commonly replaced to correct this concern.
Try unplugging it for 60 sec. It might start after that.
Regards,
JPNinPA
Sent using TapTalk
Last edited:
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