2002 Grand Cherokee rear axle housing removal

[cjp2010nkc]

Hello all,
I was woundering if I could get some help on procedure for this project. :???:
I have to remove the rear axle housing assembly to take to a shop and have the differential rebuilt.
Upon initial investigation, it looks fairly easy, but I was wondering about the ABS and the coil springs.

On the coil springs, can I just un-bolt everything then jack the body up to remove the coils, then remove the assy? If so, how far up do I need to go to get them out ?
Or, do I need to jack up the body, then rear end to remove tension from the sway bar, etc. before un bolting them, then lower the housing?

Obviously I need to detatch the brake lines. Never worked with ABS before. Anything I should know before I start?

Forgot to add- This is the DANA/SPICER 44 with the Hydro-Lok. Jeep has Quardra Trac.

Thanks everyone !

 

[SteelHeadz]

You pretty much have it figured out. The best way is to set the body on jack stands (securely), until the tires are no longer touching the ground. Front tires chucked. Remove the wheels, disconnect the electrical connectors for the rear sensors if equipped, disconnect the e-brake cables and the hydraulic brake lines however, i prefer removing the axle shafts then unbolting the brake shield from the axles on both sides then slipping off the entire brake assembly away from the axle without disconnecting the e-brake and the hydraulic lines so you dont have to bleed the brakes. Disconnect the rear drive shaft. Remove the nuts securing the upper and lower lateral arms(control arms) without pulling the bolts out and likewise for the shock absorber. Disconnect the rear swaybar links from the axle. Slide a floorjack under the center of the axle housing. With the axle at a relaxed position, carefully jack up the axle until the tension on the rear shock bolts are releived to be pulled out by hand on both sides. Once the shock bolts are pulled out, lower the axle until the coil springs are loose enough to be pulled out carefully. Once the springs are out, you can carefully pull each one of the bolts on the control arms out by hand by manipulating the axle to releive it from tension. Be careful on this since it's like a balancing act with the floor jack. Good luck.

 

[cjp2010nkc]

Hi SteelHeadz,
Thanks for the reply. I got to thinking about the lower control arms last night, not disconnecting them till the springs were out.
I have disc brakes so no real need to worry about bleeding brakes. Just going to unbolt the calliper brackets from the housing and move them out of the way. I will probably try to just release the cable from the parking brake assy. The guy doing the axle wants the axle's left in the housing.
This axle has the ball joint at the top center of the axle.
I am wondering which would be best, unbolting the three bolts from the housing, or the two from the frame, then remove the control arm/ball joint assy after I get the axle out ?

 

[SteelHeadz]

Hi SteelHeadz,
Thanks for the reply. I got to thinking about the lower control arms last night, not disconnecting them till the springs were out.
I have disc brakes so no real need to worry about bleeding brakes. Just going to unbolt the calliper brackets from the housing and move them out of the way. I will probably try to just release the cable from the parking brake assy. The guy doing the axle wants the axle's left in the housing.
This axle has the ball joint at the top center of the axle.
I am wondering which would be best, unbolting the three bolts from the housing, or the two from the frame, then remove the control arm/ball joint assy after I get the axle out ?

It's best to unbolt it from the axle for the upper control arm.

 

[cjp2010nkc]

Thanks SteelHeadz,
Its Coming along fine, but ran into a little snag that again cannot find an answer for. How do you release the E-Brake cable from the E-brake? I see where it goes into the equalizer, or what ever it is, but not sure how to get it out.
Thanks for all the help. When I get done, I will try to post this whole procedure in the tech forum.

 

[SteelHeadz]

[h=3]REMOVAL - REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLES[/h]

1. Remove center console.
2. Lift up rear seat and carpet covering the parking brake cables.
3. Place a screw driver through the front cable eyelet (front cable eyelet) and pry back on the front cable.
4. Have an assistant pry down the lock out spring through the hole in the side of the park brake lever with a small screw driver. Then slowly release the front cable. NOTE: Their should be slack in the cable if the lock out spring is engaged.
   
5. Disengage rear cables ends from the equalizer.
6. Compress the cable retainers with a 13 mm wrench and remove the cable from equalizer bracket.
7. Raise and support the vehicle.
8. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
9. Remove the brake calipers, caliper anchors and rotors.
10. Remove the ABS sensor wiring harness from the rear brake cables.
11. Remove the cable retainer bolts from the rear spring pads.
12. Pull the cables out of the upper suspension arm brackets.
13. Push the cable in and lift up the end of cable with a small screw driver to disengage the cable from the parking brake actuator .
14. Remove the cable from the vehicle.

Lock out spring location in case you decide to unload the main cable to ease the removal of the rear cables.

Front cable eyelet( Equalizer) Note that the tool is in position on the picture.

 

[cjp2010nkc]

Steelheads-
Thanks for the Great info and diagrams ! Going to print this out for future reference
Actually, I used the wrong part terminology. I actually need to remove the cable from the actuator in the E-brake assy.
One thing I noticed today was the actuator is just sitting in there between the shoe's just like the old drum style brakes. It just looks different. Although it will be a bit more work, if I am not mistaken, I can disassemble the E-brake assy. as if I were changing the shoes ( Probably not a bad idea anyway) and the actuator SHOULD be able to be removed once the shoes are off.

Correct me if I am wrong :?:

 

[cjp2010nkc]

Ok, Got the E-brake cable removed. It will detach from the actuator. I will go into detail later.
I was wondering if you think it would be easier to remove the two upper control arm bolts that mount into the frame, remove the axle, then remove the three ball joint bolts from the housing after it is out. I have read that these have a 100flb torq and thought that it would be a whole lot easier getting it off after it is out of the vehicle, as you could then get a wrench and a BFH to break them loose.

Is this how you normally do it ? Also, do those bolts have a nut on the other end or do they just bolt into the frame?


Thanks !!!8)