Skulljeep683
New member
so on comp cams they do make turbo cams for the 4cylinder, found this out. and now im lookin for roller lifter combos for it too, if they make the conversion.
2.5L performance?
- Thread starter northshore29
- Start date
quicksand97
New member
To anyone who might know or have a opinion, if I decide to go ahead and get a electric fan in the furture for my 4 banger would you go with a used taurus fan and get the parts you need along with making mods to make the proper fitment on rad or would you get a new or used flex-a-lite which does cost more and is a direct fit ? What would you do. I dont have any current cooling issues or nothing, just looking for just a tad more umph along with MPG. My main concern is reliability.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Taurus fan, super easy to mount to the YJ radiator and very well made, very reliable. I used two factory holes on the fan shroud on one side, and added two L brackets to the other side to attach to the factory holes in the YJ radiator.
Bounty, have you seen this Volvo fan:
I have no experience with it - just happened upon this video on youtube.
I have no experience with it - just happened upon this video on youtube.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Yes, but not first-hand. I wouldn't hesitate to use it as OEM fans are made very well.
quicksand97
New member
But I would also need relays and temp probes and all that. Where is the best place to get those parts seperate.
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
Jegs has your needs and there the cheapest.
quicksand97
New member
Jegs cool, I will look into it and add to my long wish list.
Skulljeep683
New member
this is with the jeep liberty cooling fan 07 model
quicksand97
New member
Hey nice write up / Video, hows it working for you. Also what type of e-fan are you running?
Skulljeep683
New member
oh no, thats not mine, its a guy i found on youtube he did this video in responding to my questions so he knocked out the repair and the upgrade question in one shot. the fan is from a jeep liberty. so its the same radiator for them even though its the v6 but it has the shroud and mounts for the rad bottle and the pwr steer bottle, but it wires into the temp sensor if you use solder or connectors and it'll work just fine.
Skulljeep683
New member
i cant seem to find this company on the web
Skulljeep683
New member
Oh btw fellow modders, ive managed to blow out my fuel pump, so im upgrading it to this one after i rebuild the assembly. Aeromotive 11142 - Aeromotive 340 Stealth Electric Fuel Pumps - Overview - SummitRacing.com Figure when i get to finishing my motor build then it will be ready for when i boost it.
quicksand97
New member
O ok got it, thanks. Sorry for any late responses my settings on this forum fail to notify me via email
quicksand97
New member
Thats a clean engine, hey what kind of E-fan is that and do you know how many CFM its rated at?
quicksand97
New member
Thats wierd I am always making fine tune adjustments to my homebrewed factory cold ram air box. I believe like I said before it works better than a AEM cold air intake. Mine does have a flat panel K &N. Ofcourse the front of factory box is completely cut out and also a angle cut on right side of box. Like I mentioned before I have a adjustable aluminum plate to adjust the side opening and the amount of air intake. I also have a hole on the bottom of air filter box with a funnel like tube just above the shock mount. Keeps water and dirt out with no problems. Air is also sucked or ramed in from front removed headlight bezel. Thats cold air feed. Anyway with many adjustments I can make, one thing I have learned is that the 2.5L is very sensitive to the way it inhales air. Well at least mine is. One slight adjustment of only 1/8 inch movement in the sliding plate I can gain HP and loss MPG. Adjust it another way I gain MPG and lose power and torque. I have probably made one hundred adjustments. No kidding. Along with other mods under the hood I believe I found that sweet spot between power and MPG. She is smooth and really fast on take off. Or I can take off really slow and controlled. There was a time I had it where she took off so fast it was hard to control. Yet lost torque and top end speeds, along with really bad gas mileage. Anyway my point on my 2.5L it sucks air in with just the right amount and force. I guess the lil power plant does not have enough power to such though a giant filter. So bigger is not always better in my case. Its like trying to suck through a giant straw. You would need a big set of lungs. But just the right size straw you can get just the right amount of juice. Ofcourse the power I do have is in conjuction with my other mods. Homebrewed adjustable cold air feed intake, bigger air tube with heat wrap, Bigger TB with tapered design for good air charge, custom high velocity TBS, Bored out intake manifold, accel 42,000 volt coil, accel wires, NGKs gapped at .041. Tried bigger and this setting works best for my mods. Also run magnaflow free flow exhaust. Cut and trimmed factory fan for less wieght and drag. That was spooky. It actually is cooling better along with spooling up real quick. My little rig is a daily driver and sees mild explorations. Running on its BB and 31 BFG muds. Any bigger and there goes all my umph. Happy Wheeling.
hey everyone im new to this forum(first post what what) and basically just read this entire thread fishing for information (which there is no shortage of here, good info too) on doing the 4.0TB swap and adding a TBS. ive noticed that quicksand has a pretty extensive tb experimentation past so i guess ill direct this question at you (but anyone else feel free to chime in): if i add the TB/TBS, will i need to bore out my intake mani or is this all just a bolt-on operation?
Similar threads
