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meeh, the 1406 was a bit too much of a carb for a 4.2, but I also ran it on a chevy 350 and it was easy peasy to set up and run. as for the jetting as mentioned, the orifice in your secondary sounds a little rich. dial it back and see what you get. OR if you daring, I would bump your your...

^^this^^ your trying to put a carbed engine into a wiring harness with EFI, there are a lot of pins you will need to eliminate. Just to break it down in basic terminology, your 4.2 needs 3 things to run; ignition, fuel and spark. the EFI motor's harness had provisions for those plus TPS, CPS...

the booster and master from teh YJ will work on the CJ, as for the front axle, all you need is stock cj with disc brakes,swap everythign over.

on a YJ, as long as the rim diameter is over 15" to clear the caliper, you can run anything. the back spacing is what keeps the tires from rubbing. I prefer 4.5" of back spacing, with 35" tires I got slight rubbing on the springs at full lock, but never really bothered me and kept the tires...

Most likely, plus he mentioned Novak, nothing cheap about using off the shelf components. Plus Novak (and advance) are really niche parts providers and will charge a premium. I've done plenty of engine swaps including a bunch of 5.3 with a 700r4 and the cheapest we got it was about $1500 for...

Save your money, get a 86 for dE350 master. It is a damn near direct swap and it will lock up the 3/4 ton calipers and 40" tires on my jeep no issue. all you need to do is drill out the mounting holes on the master to 5/8" (will double check that diameter) and grind down the lower edges of the...

been saying this for years, finally someone gets it. I ran the same set up on a 86 CJ some 15 years back. I had a 390 CFM holley then eventually a jetted down 1406 edelbrock. eventually did a junk yard TBI on it, but the holley/offenhousen was the best running carb I ever had

I think I understand what your saying. You have a D44 front with CJ D30 outers? The CJ D30 and the D44 outer castings (knuckles) are interchangable on the axle. I am guessing you did this to get the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. I would swap on the 5 stud D44 outer castings from a ford and run the 5...

$4,000 gets me 55 hp and 70 ft pounds of torque. Not even close to being worth the money. Hellion sells a turbo kit for half that and will net about the same power increases. Heck for the cost of the supercharger, I can swap in a warmed over LS motor and drivetrain and be in the area of 400 hp...

cool, the conversion actually looks easier than I thought. The local dealership here sells already converted jeeps at a $12,000 additional cost. what does the kit with out labor cost?

lots of litheum grease on the bushings, steel sleaves and bolts. it will keep the squeaking down and will make removal years from now easier. I personally do not like shims, I prefer to move the perches. every vehicle that I've had shims on, especially aluminum shims, they split and fall out...

I would run EFI over carb any day of the week, especially if you plan on wheeling it. The EFI kits now are only a couple wires more than if your running a carb.

What year TJ? In most states, inorder for the vehicle to 1. maintain ODBII compliancy and 2. further pass any emissions, the motor needs to be from the same year or newer model, so for example, if your jeep is a 2003, 2002 was the last year for the 350 and was found in the F-body cars as an LS1...

I will suggest avoiding the tj rubicon D44 front all together. it's a over priced axle with little to no gains over a D30. the rubi D44 is basically a D30 with a 30 spline D44 ring gear and carrier. Same u-joints, same axle shafts. and most D30 shafts do not shear at the splines, they break at...

on 100% stock tj suspension, 31" tire is about it, I know people who put 32" all terrains on, but they generally measure closer to 31" so it is pretty much a wash. You can fit a 315-75r17 (35" tire) on a JK with 3" of lift and stock control arms and thats about it. the most cost effective way...

^^^ this^^^ But since you asked for my opinion, I think it sounds stupid. Invest your money into something that will improve your jeep's ability on or offroad instead of half-ass spray painting things that in the end will easily chip and flake and end up looking even more stupid than before.

easist way to be sure is to pop the diff cover off and look at the side of the ring gear. There is a series of number stamped on the side. Divide the first number (ring gear teeth) by the second number (pinion gear teeth) and you get your ratio. for example 37/9 = 4:11

the point of the truss is to prevent tube deflection, uultimately snapping a shaft. all those truss will achieve that. I know what your describing and no, you will not find one for a D44 aftermarket. you could easily make on. I know they used to make one for the D35 and you could try to find...

No, unbolt and pull. There might be some seam sealer holding the bars in the tub, but it is not "sealed." The seam sealer is just from the joint in the tub that is under the mounting pad for the roll bar My advice, replace all the stupid torx head bolts with grade 5 at a minimum hex head bolts.

I understand, but does it do it at 48 mph in 3rd and in 4th or just in 4th? I am still leaning towards a fuel delivery issue. the only other thing I can think of is if there is an exhaust restriction, generally the catalytic converter. it is hard to diognosis over a computer.