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It's usually 1 degree per inch of lift.

Dont forget you will need the crank bushing for the input shaft.

If you have the time and money go for a Jeep 4.0 or a 4.3 vortec. Either way it's all time consuming..

Yea mine did the same thing. It happened when everything was closed and I was leaving for out of town. What I did was I machined up a little aluminum ring that went around the stem. It tightened it up and all was good. I was able to keep the factory knob so they all match. Probably overkill, but...

Shims are fine. Make sure they are seated properly.

Here's the part number from advanced adapters. Pg 30 in there new catalog... p/n 716131-A Good for 1987-2002 I'm assuming you have a TJ.

The 999 has been behind many v-8's over the years and will hold up to the 4.3. Advanced Adapters has the plate your looking for. Later tonight I'll get the part number for you.

Did you check the fuel pump relay under the hood in the fuse box.

Isn't there suppose to be a tone ring inside the t-case for the inductive pick-up.

Tilt the pinion and go from there. A 2" t-case drop is a lot. One step at a time..

How much of a t-case drop do you have. You will need to tilt the pinion up. Usually 1 degree per inch of lift is the rule of thumb but not 100% always right. Other options is a sye and or possibly a 1" engine lift. Installing a SYE will get you a longer drivshaft, and that will decrease your...

That'll do it.. Time to remove the trans and x-fer case. Fun fun fun...

Are you switching over from an auto.

Seems like the bendix is stuck. Tap the top of the starter, also look for loose wires, you may have missed one when installing the new starter.

Installed new head

Installed new cam

You said you replaced the cam position sensor. Did you have it set at a shop with a scan tool. If its not set correctly it will not be in time with the injector pulse. That will throw everything off.

Cool, glad to hear you fixed it. Now go out there and enjoy it until something else goes up...

Have someone test the exhaust to make sure the cats are working properly. I have had issues with a cold engine running great until it gets to operating temp then crap out like you have stated. The issue was a clogged cat. At least then you can rule out a clogged system.

PoliceMonkey is correct in powering up your wiring harness to test circuits. After that is set-up you can use a volt meter or test light to test the wire's going to the tail light. (Ex.) using a test light turn your right or left turn signal on and touch the test light to one of your wires in...