What trans will fit 1995 YJ?

camcdaniel1

New member
I need to replace the 5 speed in my 95 wrangler. i called the junk yard and they told me that only 94-95 would fit. Are there any differances between AX15's from 90 - 95? I have a good 90 AX15 will it work?
thanks for any help!!
 

Eh, they changed the clutch configuration in 94 and went to an external slave. I think you may be able to do it by just swapping your bellhousing to the new trans along with your clutch set up, but I'm not 100%. Can anyone confirm this?
 
That and possibly the input shaft diameter where it goes into the pilot bushing might be a different size. I don't know if they changed that in 94 or in 97. If you have both out, compare the size of the input shaft tip. The two sizes are .59 inches on the older model and .75 inches on the newer model. Otherwise, take the bell housing and clutch parts from the 94 and install them on the 90 transmission.
 
Keep the '95 bellhousing, and you'll have to change either the transfer case or swap out the transfer case input shaft. In '95 the 231 behind the AX15 went from a short input to a long input. Click here http://novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm and scroll down to the input shaft chart.

I've probably got a short 23spl input shaft I'd trade you for your long 23spl, plus a little $$ to cover shipping. It's not too difficult to swap input shafts on the 231 but it requires complete disassembly.
 

I have the transfer case from the 90 model. would it be better to swap both? Just for ref. how do you tell the differance bewteen an ax5 and ax15?
 
They look very similar, but the AX5 came behind the 4cyl and the AX15 behind the 6cyl.

Better to swap the '90 transfer case, then reuse your '95 bellhousing and clutch setup and you should be good to go.

Compare the input shafts of both trannies when you get the '95 transmission out, just to be sure, but it should be the same.
 
I bought the 90 model trans from a guy that said it was from a 6cyl but I would like to make sure before I pull mine apart

is there anyway to ID the ax15?
 
dandoc if you lived close enough I'd buy ya a cup of coffee!!! It's 15 for shure.

I have another question. I have a vibration around 55mph. Runs smooth up to 55 then it starts shaking bad; not in the steering wheel. Ive had the tires balanced. even swaped the spare around to make sure. Just checked the u joints front and rear shafts.

It's not lifted. Running buckshot maxxis tires. Could it be in the trans?
 
Doubt it is inside the trans. Try removing the front driveshaft and see if it continues. Second, I would change out the ujoints in the rear driveshaft while leaving the front shaft out.
 

yep pulled the front shaft cured the shaking; u joints feel tight

do these shafts bend very often?
 
Your front driveshaft should not be spinning at highway speeds when in 2wd, unless the vacuum disconnect on the pass. side axleshaft is not disconnecting like it should. Even with a bent shaft, it shouldn't spin fast enough for noticeable and consistent vibrations.

The front driveshaft shouldn't be bent unless it hit something, but it could have lost a balance weight or otherwise be out of balance. Could also be out of phase if anybody ever had the slipsplines apart.
 

The YJ's don't have hubs, they have that. It's a pretty cool idea, it just tends to fail after a while. It uses vacuum pressure from the engine to engage a vacuum actuator. The vacuum actuator slides a collar on the passenger side axle shaft which is actually a two piece axle shaft. When not in 4wd, the actuator is supposed to be retracted and the front drive shaft will have no or little force applied to it and therefore won't spin much, if it all. Sometimes they fail in one position or the other. So if yours is out it could be stuck in the locked position if your front shaft is spinning constantly.
 
They make kits to remove the vacuum element from it so that you can actuate it manually. That may be the best bet in your case since your shaft is giving you vibes. They also make kits to replace the 2 piece axle with a one piece axle shaft and totally do away with the vacuum disconnect. You can actually do piece together both kits rather easily, heres the link to the manual disco, its a home made version.

http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/jeep/tech/cabledis.htm

You can also find the seal (if you really want I'll search for the part number), get the axle shaft, and just make a block off plate to do the one piece shaft conversion.
 

The front driveshaft will spin even if the disconnect is working correctly, due to the parasitic drag of the gear oil in the diff and transfer case. Theoretically you should be able to stop it from spinning while driving in 2wd.

The vacuum disco system on the front axle isn't bad once you understand how it works and know how to diagnose problems with it.

I'd recommend removing the vacuum disconnect motor from the front axle, it's held on by 4 bolts. It'll leak a little gear oil so be sure to catch it (it won't drain the entire differential). Once removed, reconnect the vacuum harness and, with the engine running and wheels chocked, have an assistant shift from 2wd to 4wd and back several times. You should be able to see the disconnect fork move. You should also be able to move the fork by hand if it's not seized.

If the fork doesn't move both directions, pull the vacuum harness and feel for equally strong vacuum in each port, alternating between 2wd and 4wd. If one or both ports lack vacuum, either the vacuum switch at the transfer case is bad, or you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. It's not a difficult system to trace.
 
The front driveshaft will spin even if the disconnect is working correctly, due to the parasitic drag of the gear oil in the diff and transfer case. Theoretically you should be able to stop it from spinning while driving in 2wd.

Thats the term I was looking for so I just settled for the theoretical reply.
 
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