What did you do to your Jeep today?

Ghost Rider said:
There is a major fallacy regarding the so called 6161 T6 Aluminum billet as being "aircraft grade". It is in aircraft building for non structural parts such as seat frames, instrument panels and so on. Airframes are usually built out of 7075 Aluminum because it's strength. 6061 is not necessarily a very strong material. Of course if it is built strong enough it can carry heavy loads. I am sure it will be more than strong enough for your Jeep. There are lots of things that will break in a Jeep if exposed to a 16,000 pounds of torque..... But the idea that that part with a 5/8 pin can be exposed time after time to loads of 16,000lbs of pull will have me worried a bit. Gennybro is a former machinist I believe and so am I and we know a thing or two about metals......

Does the titanium pin make it any better than the less expensive steel pin?
 

Titanium is a far superior material than steel but remember that if the material that the titanium pin goes in is not strong enough, something has to fail and it will. Personally, I think you will be OK with the part as it is and the steel pin. I just don't trust too much the idea of 16,000 lbs. what are you polling with the jeep that weighs 16,000 lbs??? I just finished my bumpers and they are rated at a pulling weight of 12,000 LBS ( the material is any way).... I don't intend to ever exceed that and then how strong are the bolts holding them??? Do you see what I am getting at?? Don't waste your money on a Titanium pin if the whole thing is attached with steel screws. By the way, not all screws are the same. When using screws to pull heavy loads, try to buy screws that have rolled threads not cut. A rolled thread is much stronger. That is why most aircraft screws have rolled threads. The root of the thread has a radius at the bottom of it making it much stronger. Hope I am not getting you confused here but I am a machinist by trade a manufacturing engineer. By the way, nice looking part anyways. Thinking about making one for my self now but I am I am going to use some 7075 Aluminum that I have in the shop from a brake project that I made for someone....
 
Thank you, I get it. The "loaded model" comes with the rubber bumper and titanium pin for a little more, that's what I purchased anyway. Like you said, I'm probably going to pull myself or someone out of a situation, not exceeding or testing the limits.
Thanks again for the expertise..
 
Welded a piece of scrap 3/16 strapping from the side of my frame to skid plate for extra security until I can afford to fix it right...
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It looks fixed for now! When you get new the new piece, weld it over it.... Double protection.
 
Ghost Rider said:
It looks fixed for now! When you get new the new piece, weld it over it.... Double protection.

Its the bottom of the frame rail that needs to be replaced.... I'm either going to get the safe t cap frame repair pieces or if it is still solid enough I'll weld in a new bottom? Not sure yet

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looked for new radiator for the truck today got loaded on the trailer takeing it with me to the junk yard tomorrow to test fit different radiators till i find one that will fit!!!!!!!!!!
 
And it's compatible with an MRI machine
It is because it is non magnetic. It wouldn't be a good thing to have magnetic hips or knees and go through a MRI. Machine. I used to do the prototype work on hips and knees at a p,ant owned by Bristol Myers Squib in Largo Florida. Machined lots of Titanium in my life.....
 

Ghost Rider said:
It is because it is non magnetic. It wouldn't be a good thing to have magnetic hips or knees and go through a MRI. Machine. I used to do the prototype work on hips and knees at a p,ant owned by Bristol Myers Squib in Largo Florida. Machined lots of Titanium in my life.....

Also not good to have AICDs go into MRI active zone. Not good for side arms, either. They can discharge and it has happened
 
Bought a new box for the trailer. Need to weld a bar across the back to hold it up. This will make it much easier to attach the axle straps in front. The new box is perfect size for ratchet and axle straps.
 

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Looking good. I have only one suggestion.... If you can afford it, buy your self a sheet of steel diamond plate and replace the wood on the trailer. I just spent $750 in materials alone to fix my trailer. The damn wood is holding moisture and the trailer will get all rusted and rotted out quick. There was almost nothing left of the frame because of it. I basically rebuilt it from scratch. Working on the sides and tail gate right now. I will post some pics of the way it looks now and all the rusted steel because of the wood. Just my two cents... A full sheet of 4' by 10' cost me $95 at my steel supplier. When the trailer will be finished, it will last me for the last of my life...
 

Flushed power steering, oil change, fuel filter, and broke some bolts in half lol
 
Productive day, welded some braces on the trailer for the new box and patched a couple of old holes from previous box. Usual bumps in the road. My brother mistakenly measured the second brace which sent me to Tractor Supply for some more angle iron. Then he dropped the second brace and I picked it up, only to realize he just cut that end with the plasma cutter. WOW, that hurts! Nice blisters on my thumb and middle finger. Everything turned out nice..

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So I decided to finally replace my fender flares on YJ with the ones that I purchase 6 months ago.... The problem was that the new flares are poorly engineered or are meant to fail in a short period of time because there is approximately about 7/4 (it varies from hole to hole about 1/8") gap between the contact surface of the flare and the surface where the washer for the mounting screw rests upon. This means that if you torque the screws too much they will eventually crack and break of or you leave not tight enough and they will rattle. So I had to make some spacers that had to be custom thickness for each screw gap and they had to be one side flat and one at 18 degrees to match the flare. It was lots of work but the first flare is installed, screws tight as they can be and the flare is rock solid. I will post pictures soon to see the setup. Got I go and finish the rest.... Lunch is over
 

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Changed the oil. Max Life 10w-30 and a Purolator PureONE filter. Every 3000 miles religiously and the oil still looks like tar when it comes out.
 
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