Thinking about getting a SWB Jeep.

mingez said:
Are there any advantages, performance-wise, going with one over the other. I know the costs of the YJ will be better, but what about performance?

The newer TJ's (I think 2000 & newer) have better trannies than the older TJ's and YJ's. I know that's true for the 4.0L but not sure on the 2.5L (or the 2.4L on the newest years).

The suspensions are the main difference. Without opening a leaf vs coil debate, both have advantages. The TJ and it's coil spring suspension has a more "car-like" or comfortable ride, and also flexes pretty well even in it's stock form with the swaybar(s) disco'd. The YJ has a leaf spring suspension which is more solid, simplifying the suspension (no control arms or rear swaybar). This is why the TJ lifts cost alot more and the TJ is more prone to "death Wobble", which is correctable by the way. Saying one is better than the other isn't really easy, because solid arguements can be made for both. Much of it boils down to preference.

The drivetrains are all pretty comperable (91 and up) and had very little change throughout the years. Not a factor except for some of the TJ's have Dana 44 rears.

Other than that it is mainly styling differences. TJ 4.0's have been known to have problems with the exhaust manifolds cracking, but most have prolly been replaced and I read somewhere that they have finally been recalled.

Whatever ya choose, I think you'll love either one. I think the YJ would be a better choice because they are less expensive to buy and less expensive to build up, but admittingly, I am quite biased.
 
mingez said:
Besides, I can always make the grill on a YJ round.

{clutching his chest}
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Of course someone had to mension the dear old CJ. Get the 258, lose the carter carb and all that smog crap and you have a nice motor. No matter what year CJ7 you get (82-86) you will always get good axles. Wide track axles; dana 30/amc 20 and in the last CJ7's in 86 that came off the line had dana 44's out back. Though the shafts for that dana 44 are extremely rare it is still a dana 44. The amc 20 is a good axle. The amc 20 with a solid axle conversion is said to be as strong as a Ford 9inch. The ring gear is 8.75 inches but is aprox 1/4" thicker than a DANA 44. When buying a jeep it's all about how much you want to spend when buying the actual vehicle. You can find a decent CJ7 for 4k, a decent YJ for 6k, and a decent Tj for around 10k.
 

Joopin said:
Ummm wm69... crappy crappy crappy, you make the CJ sound like it's flawless! We would all be driving CJs here! One bad thing about the CJs is they have this bad rep. for THE TUBS RUSTING TO PIECES! There is a reason most CJ owners are looking for YJ tubs all the time. Or you could go buy new everything for a CJ...

I have two CJ7s now and neither of them have any rust. In fact, of 5 of my buddies who own CJ's (77-86, so all of them are covered), only one has any rust, and that's cause it was pushing a snow plow in Chicago. Granted you might have to look a little harder for a pristine CJ, but they are worth it, and they ARE out there. Guy down the street just sold an 86, dana 44 rear, 3.31's, hard top, 258 w/ 5 speed, warn 8274, 29K MILES for $5500. It looked as good as it sounds, and had I known he was selling it my wife would be divorcing me for buying a 3rd jeep. Get that jeep, put a weber/mpi on a 4.0 head and you've got a sweet jeep for under $6500. If you think that's one in a million, there are about 10 old men in my hometown who all bought jeeps from 78-86 and don't drive them (case in point, my dad's scrambler has 3500 (yes that's hundred) miles on it). Most of them sit at a hunting club from sept-may, when they are brought home, serviced, and maybe driven around town a little. They are only used to hunt out of sept-may, so what you end up with is a bunch of low milage original jeeps in pristine shape, and they're CJ's (and even some old broncos). I love going to that hunting club and just drooling :lol:
 
Well I guess you are part of the smaller percentage then wm69. Everyone I know that has a CJ is either looking for a YJ tub to swap or already did the swap. I guess it's like any vehicle, if they are kept in a good climate where it's not proned to rust, you can find a decent one.

I guess Migez has to get a TJ body, with YJ leaf spring suspension, and a 258 with EFI... There ya go, that's what you need to find, or build.
 

I have to agree with TwistedCopper. The YJ is simpler in it's suspension design. You can ditch all the flex-restrictors (rear-track bar, sway bar, front track bar) and still maintain a fairly stable ride. I'll have to narrow my suggestion down to the 1995 YJ 4.0 because of the stronger u-joints in the front axle and the external clutch slave cylinder. Honestly, if you can find a 1995 Sahara, jump on it.

Now if the cost of a 95 YJ 4.0 and a 2000 TJ 4.0 were the same, I'd say TJ. It would be nice to have some added reliability, but not at the cost of $5k or more. I also don't like the TJ dash... it's so big and clumsy. Being 6'4" my knees are all over the TJ dash. Plus, I can't believe they put a hand-brake in the TJ... that is so car-like.

Finally, the 2.5L is fine. I get about 16-18 mpg (yes, even with 33's). It's all about your driving habits (shift at lower rpms and leave early to get to work so you don't have to rush.) But if you get a 4-cylinder, get a 91 or later model. These have the MPFI (multi-port) where the earlier 2.5L have TBI (throttle body injection). The MPFI gets better HP and torque.

Corey
 
You are all forgeting about where mingez lives. New Mexico doesnt have a big rust issue. All three of these jeeps are very straight forward and easy to work on. If you do get a CJ7 get an 82. Wide track axles and not computer controled.
 

hi_c said:
1995 YJ 4.0 because of the...... the external clutch slave cylinder.

I think that external slave was introduced in '93. Could be wrong, but I think it's right. Anybody know for sure?
 
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