Switches

[Turbogus]

That's just what I'm doing JPN I made a piece of 2/0 welding wire with a solid copper terminal that'll feed into a power splitter.

 

[Turbogus]

I like to use these guys for grounding most of the circuits that I add on my projects.

 

[Turbogus]

Well, looks like I'll have to revisit that switch. There's power with the key on, but it's to both the Fog and Driving wires;

I didn't wire in the negative (from another thread I was told it was unnessesary) but either the back of this switch is hacked or it's just lacking a ground. What do y'all think?

 

[JPNinPA]

So as soon as you turn the key on the lights turn on? Or with the key on no matter up or down the lights are on but in the middle they are off?


Or are the LEDs in the switch not on?

Ohm out the switch


JPNinPA
Using Jeepz.com app

 

[Turbogus]

THe LED headlights are on a seperate circuit and function fine. This switch is only for the H3 Fog and Driving lights. When I tested with an Ohmmeter prior to installing the poles were seperated and the switch functioned as the labels in the photo above. Perhaps all of the other work I've been doing has my mind bedazzled but I think this was right.

 

[Turbogus]

Here's the diagram I used,



I found this diagram that more closely resembles my switch DPDT

 

[JPNinPA]

I meant the LEDs in the switch. Connect the ground for the switch LEDs to work.


This is how I think the LEDs for the switch are wired internally.

Here is the reverse current I talked about.

I think you need this one

JPNinPA
Using Jeepz.com app

 

[Turbogus]

I've tapped a hot circuit at the fuse fanel using a dedicated tap for mini fuses for the switch power. I just can't seem to get my head around how to make this switch function; Up for Fog, Center for Off and Down for Driving (lights). So far in my search engine research I could only find one reference to the exact switch this is, it was an old EBay ad.
I retested the four pin contacts with my Ohmmeter and it seems in only one of the many configurations was I able to find an 'open' in the switch with the switch in the middle position.



Here's what I found running Pin tests with my Multimeter;
Switch OFF
Pin 1 to Pin 2 = 50 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 3 = 99 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 5 = OPEN


Pin 2 to Pin 3 = 50 Ohms
Pin 2 to Pin 5 = OPEN


Pin 3 to Pin 5 = OPEN


Switch FOG
Pin 1 to Pin 2 = 50 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 3 = 107 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 5 = 0.1 Ohms


Pin 2 to Pin 3 = 51 Ohms
Pin 2 to Pin 5 = 52 Ohms


Pin 3 to Pin 5 = 101 ohms


Switch Driving
Pin 1 to Pin 2 = 50 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 3 = 99 Ohms
Pin 1 to Pin 5 = 99 Ohms


Pin 2 to Pin 3 = 49 Ohms
Pin 2 to Pin 5 = 49 Ohms


Pin 3 to Pin 5 = 0.3 Ohms

I don't know if this is indicative of a bad switch or not.

 

[Turbogus]

HAAAAH! I like that switch button

 

[JPNinPA]

HAAAAH! I like those switch button(s)

Fixed it!


Ah it's difficult to see or understand which pin is which. Could you help out by identifying what is what.

I see 4 tabs and 6 locations/rivets. Only #4 and maybe #6 is visible.


Also in general 50 ohms is a lot for a switch contact. Any current and you have a supplementary heater.

JPNinPA
Using Jeepz.com app

 

[Turbogus]

So.... I'm dealing with a bad switch?

I got the little dingus apart and while there was a little crud on the teeter totter copper doodad after cleaning it up the switch did no better.

 

[JPNinPA]

So it's not a DPDT it's a single switch.
And those are mini lamps not LED?




JPNinPA
Using Jeepz.com app

 

[Turbogus]

Turns out they're incandescent and I learned that this switch seems to be available from boating/nautical shops. I'm waiting to hear from one how many pins are on theirs.

Another pic showing (somewhat) pin assignments;

 

[Turbogus]

I have a conventional 6 pin switch coming from IBoats.com, it seems to be a match;


Since I already know how to pull this dingus apart I can replace the pace of this one with the (faded) printed face. I wonder if I can retouch the text on the original one.

 

[Turbogus]

I found an EBay seller (likely in China) selling this very switch new, with the same odd connections;

1pc of Rocker Switch , Fog/Driving Light 4P 15A125V 10A24V DC , MADE IN TAIWAN | eBay

When I get the switch from IBoat, if the size is the same I'll just swap out the covers.

 

[JPNinPA]

They have or are sending a schematic? So no surprises?


Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk

 

[JPNinPA]

Is it the nostalgic look or size that you are purchasing the exact same switch?

Check mouser for (on)-off-(on) switches there are just under 4,000 of different types.


Regards,
JPNinPA

Sent using TapTalk

 

[Turbogus]

Yep JPN, I'm just matching the switch that was in place. The hole is already in the panel and while I could find another blank like I had, I'll work with this one unless it becomes impossible. Mousers' that's one of my favorite sites, not only for switches, but for all manner of connectors and such. I've even found new underhood connectors that match the OE connectors on my '78. I was going through all of those switches on their site but the one I found was easier to nail down and with that modded switch I mentioned it'll be together soon I'm hoping.

 

[Turbogus]

Got the new switches yesterday and they behave normally with no feedback. I also inverted the lens as I though FOG should be yellow, rather than red. if I could find a white lens for the DRIVING tab that'd be ideal but I'm not one to split hairs.

 

[JPNinPA]

Wouldn't white be too bright and distracting?

JPNinPA
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