Runs great then after a block wants to stall

Basically you disconnect the battery and drain any stored energy. So if you remove the positive battery wire and touch it to negative or turn the key to start...it will drain any circuit stored energy. Anything that can draw stored energy quickly you will clear the codes. Wrapping them together for time is still draining the charge only through the device leakages... It just takes longer.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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arcangel said:
tj_nick
Who has tryed this????????
This very simple procedure will Erase the “Adaptive Memory” stored inside the TJ PCM and allow a new “Adaptive Memory” to be developed. After performing this procedure the PCM will re-learn and store into Adaptive Memory your engines performance characteristics. Please perform these steps exactly as they are written, in the order they are written. This will cause the adaptive memory in the PCM to be erased and cause the PCM to go into Fast Learn Mode adaptive mode. Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. Reconnect the Battery Cable Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine Turn Headlight “On” Turn Headlights “Off” Turn Ignition Key “Off” The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM. When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory. When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”. The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles. Warm-up Cycle A warm-up cycle happens when all of the following conditions exist.


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Click to expand...

I have done this several times. This is best after fixing a vacuum leak or after changing sensors. The PCM memory recalls the high O2levels of a leak and sprays injectors longer. By resetting you recover mpg faster.
Also by doing this it will show if you have a vac leak. Idle will jump above 1000 rpm .

Anyone else care to chime in???
Regards,
JPNinPA

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Last edited:

Also want to let you know places like AZ, OReillys and advanced have ODBII code readers you could use for free. You don't have to go to a dealer.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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Any luck yet?

I just did a head on a old crv and it seemed all the sensors went bad afterwards. First i went through and cleaned and reseated the connections. Cleared the codes and drove it. Three codes came back. A battery voltage code. A o2 sensir and a knock sensor. It turns out the replacement battery was undersized.





JPNinPA
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After clearing code by method u explained should the radio should have reset also?
The other thing i notice after reset if i let the jeep warm upbpast 160 degree the problem doesnt happen!!
Ps is there any way to get rid of all theses sensers?



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Yes the radio stations and time will reset. Disconnecting the battery and touching the leads together or turning the key on should drain the charge. If it didn't you may need to wait longer with the key on.

Did the codes clear and what ones came back?
Regards,
JPNinPA

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Last edited:
So this happens in open loop. Open loop is the time before the PCM uses the sensor signals/info. During this time it uses a lookup table to determine air fuel ratio.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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If the radio reset you likely did.
Codes are stored until corrected and certain criteria met like # of starts. In some cases they need to be reset to be cleared. When malfunctioning the PCM makes and stores adjustments.
By clearing the codes and resetting the PCM the engine will be at a ground state. Odd running will not happen due to stored settings.

With this happening below 160 there are two things I could think of off the batt. A vacuum leak or a bad upstream O2 sensor.

To check for a vac leak take some carb cleaner or wd40 and , with the engine running, spray around the intake where it meets the block, the base of the throttle body, the injectors and plugs. A change in rpm or sputtering lets you know you located a leak source. Sometimes small cracks seal when things heat and expand.

If it's an O2 sensor you need to borrow a scan tool that you could see live data. The sensor should be switching in a regular pattern.

Use oem sensors. NTK is the oem mfg for o2 sensors.



Regards,
JPNinPA

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Last edited:
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