Rubicon axels in a YJ

2000roo

New member
Will the axels out of a rubicon work on my 88 YJ? What kind of modification will be necessary to make it work?
Keith
 

Cut off all the control arm mounts and spring buckets, unless you plan on linking the YJ. Weld on spring perches and shock mounts. With a torch and angle grinder would take a good day-day and a half to cut and grind off all the mess.
 
I would keep the 30 until you want to step up to at least a HP Dana 44..... If you're only running 33's with <4.88 gears and a stock motor you should be fine. Maybe swap in the rear Dana 44 or an 8.8.
 
Oh yeah.... Also keep in mind that the manual hub locks on the front dana 44s require a 5x5.5" lug pattern instead of the YJ 5x4.5 which would mean you might have to purchase new wheels as a part of your project. Just swapping out the rear axle would let you stick with the origional lug pattern.
 

They will work, but there are a LOT better options out there. The Rubi d44 housings are not much stronger than what you have now, and you would still have unit bearings in the front.

Consider real d44's since they would be easier to fit into a YJ and have stronger housings, serviceable bearings, better (cheaper) highsteer options, locking hubs, larger brakes, more standardized ring and pinion, etc.

I run a Wagoneer front d44 and an Isuzu Rodeo (Honda Passport) rear d44. This combo is the same width as stock axles, has matching 6-lug wheels at each corner, and 4wheel disc brakes. They're a lot better axles than Rubi D44's and a LOT cheaper.
 
Rubi 44's are 5 on 4.5 or jk rubi are 5 on 5 and ther eis a conversion kit for manual hubs and 5 on 4.5 pattern. It is pretty much a modified warn full float D30 kit.

I think your biggest issue will be to get the stock lockers to work. I have never done it, but I have heard that getting the right air supply and pressure on the older units is a real bear to do.
 

'80 and newer Grand Wagoneer axles would work better.
 
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