Rollcage Construction

[JeepMonkey]

As everyone knows the roll cages in Wranglers aren't so well built that they would stand up to a serious roll over. I have already added a bolt in cage and would still like to go stronger. A friend of mine is pretty handy with the tube bender and welder, so we got to talking about adding some more strength to my cage.

Do you guys think that we could just weld the joints in the bolt on cage and add some more support pieces in other locations? Or would I be better off removing the bolt on cage and starting over completely?

 

[redrooster]

I'm glad you posted this. We haven't had a good roll cage thread in a while.
What kind of bolt in kit do you have? If you are talking about the TJ in the picture, then you are pretty limited with what you can do around the dash without cutting into it. I suppose you have already discovered that.

 

[JeepMonkey]

The cage I have in there now is the Or-Fab bolt in style. It actually goes to the dash and then there are flat steel pieces extending to the floor. They are actually bolted thru the floor where the drain plugs were. I'm going to start by building a bracket that will be welded to the frame and then to the bottom of the cage. Then I figured I could weld a few gussets into the corners of the after market cage for added strength. For the rear section I'm going to go completely custom fab and do a new cross piece at the rear of the original cage. I'm also going to tie it into the frame right behind the rear wheelwells. I watched an episode of Extreme Off-Road the other day where they did just that.

Or-Fab offers a complete weld in kit, but at the time I bought this I didn't have the welding connection I do now. I think it would be perfectly alright to add weld on pieces to the bolt on stuff. It shouldn't weaken it right?

Here's some pictures of what I have right now.

http://www.orfab.com/images/TJSportCageA.jpg
http://www.orfab.com/images/SprtCagetop.jpg
http://www.orfab.com/images/SBR200.jpg
http://www.orfab.com/images/SpcageWdown.jpg

 

[cewtwo]

Make sure you go DOM.

I got the poison spider cage and welded it in myself.

Haven't needed it yet...

 

[jps4jeep]

while the or fab cage is nice, and can with stand a roll or two, you will need basically two things in any cage design

1. more triangulation, that is what will add strength and rigidity to the cage in a roll over situation

2. tie the cage into the frame.

While DOM is the standard, a well designed and fabricated hrew cage can be just as strong if not stronger than a hacked in DOM cage. Make sure your joints are nice and tight and the welder really penetrate into both pieces and you will be in great shape.



I like the Poison Spyder cage, I think it offers a great foundation for a safe cage.

I don't have any pics of my cage on hand, but mine is build off the factory B pillar, everything else is 2.25 DOM. I've had it on it's Lid twice now, none too serious, but it has held up.

 

[cewtwo]

I agree with the triangulation. I added lots of additional smaller ones where I thought they would add strength.

This is some detail to show how the rollcage went in. I added some plate under the tub to tie the uprights into the frame. At the side of the dash, you can see one of the triangular gussets that are added for strength. You can also notice that I took some artictic license by movingthe front top back to allow the visors to go up and down.

It was only tested once and took the hit quite well.

And the moral of this picture is - Never let your dog drive the trail...

Even the Poison Spider cage (at least the one that I procured) only covers the front. I still need to add a strut at the back between the uprights at the top of the back window to ensure a good cage.

 

[redrooster]

The goal obviously is to add support in the case of either side rolls or front and rear rolls. Several things you may want to look at:
1. Add a horizontal dash bar on that ORfab setup. It could be smaller diameter to maintain visibilty.
2. Use a smaller diameter bar at a 45 between your A pillar and the overhead bars (grab handle-esq). This will help support the A pillar if you endo.
3. Overhead bars like this looking from above [/\] will help keep everything square from front, rear and side rolls. Also help keep the rocks off your noggin.
4. Tie the A and B pillars into the frame with sandwich plates at the body and tubes down to the frame. You can use rubber bushings where the tubes mount to allow the body to flex if you like.

If you want to go one step further, add a cross bar with diagonal bars to your B hoop. These bars would strenghten the cage in a side roll. Look something like this from the rear _\/_. If you plan on having back seat passengers, you may consider adding support there by installing bars overhead and tying the C pillars in to the frame.

For those that don't know, the A pillar are your post coming up by the windshield, B is the roll bar behind the seats and C is the bars coming off your rear fenders.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

HREW should be fine, DOM is overkill for what we do.

You're find welding on the stock cage mainhoop.

 

[currupt4130]

My cage is, and I hate admitting this, half HREW and half SCH 40. It's held up. I have a cage kit from and S & W Racing. It started off with one of their HREW 10 point cages and got modified as needed. S&W Race Cars

They make good stuff. It's held up. It's in need of replacing after all the torture I've put it through, but still, great cage for the price. I had a buddy do the YJ cage in his TJ. Took some minor retro-fitting, but it went in fine.

 

[JeepMonkey]

Thanks for the advice!

Cewtwo, do you think if you'd have left the winshield down it would have survived?

If I get this done the way I want it will all be tied into the frame in several locations. On the T.V. show they mentioned using rubber bushings to help keep down the transfer of vibrations. I'm glad I watched that because I hadn't thought of that. I will most certainly be adding more supports to the rear half of the cage. That's where the boy will be riding when he's old enough.

When I described this to my wife she actually asked me why I'd want to do all that? It would look stupid driving down the road. I told her it would look awesome if we were rolling down the mountain!

 

[redrooster]

Don't skimp where the kids are concerned.
I just installed a PRP preemy seat in mine with 5 point harness for my 2 year old. He's already been on 3 mild trail rides. I am also going to put a bicycle helmet on him when it's time to hit some more exciting trails. His head isn't big enough to fit in one a the present.

 

[Wrangl3r93]

The rubber bushings are a good idea. A local jeeper had one put in his tj, tied into the frame, and now every time he takes a turn it pulls a tire off the ground.

 

[redrooster]

Huh? That doesn't make sense. He would have to have the most top heavy cage in the history of mankind to completely flex out the suspension and lift a tire in a turn. Besides, that would have nothing to do with the cage tie-ins to the frame being direct or bushed.

 

[cewtwo]

I did not install rubber bushings. Haven't needed them. Good solid construction should not need them (IMHO).

If the front window was down? I don't know. A bypass to an obstacle was blocked by a downed tree. The Jeep was left at the top of a hill above the bypass without the emergency brake being set. It rolled down the hill (gaining speed as it went). The tree had a branch that went into the windshield and stopped the jeep (suddenly) at about 5 points.

I would say it was a 50/50 shot that worse could have happened!

The good news? The tree was no longer blocking the bypass!

The booboo is almost all alright now, though...

 

[Wrangl3r93]

Huh? That doesn't make sense. He would have to have the most top heavy cage in the history of mankind to completely flex out the suspension and lift a tire in a turn. Besides, that would have nothing to do with the cage tie-ins to the frame being direct or bushed.

His cage looks like any other cage I've ever seen, I don't know what would cause it. I haven't actually seen it do it in person, he was just telling me about it when I said a cage was the next thing I'm doing to my jeep.:?|

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Lifting a tire has to do with poor suspension geometry, control arms are prolly too steep. He was prolly getting a little flame flex before and not lifting a tire, now no frame flex and it lifts a tire. Also easily done with no rear swaybar.

I'd use bushings on the frame tie-ins, it's the proper way to do it, otherwise you're making all 11 body bushings useless and transferring all chassis vibes into the body and passengers. easier on parts also.

 

[currupt4130]

I can lift the tire on my dad's Rubi. Just grab second gear going around a corner and punch it...

 

[JeepMonkey]

Watch out for that tire lifting stuff..... Yes it is poor suspension geometry and the angles on the control arms are way too steep. Steep enough so that when you do show off "hittin 3 wheels in the corner" you'll eventually break the rear left mounting point of the upper control arm. Go ahead....ask me how I know!