Radiator and Elec. Fan (complete)

TwistedCU

New member
Motorcraft is in

The drain plug on my radiator broke the other morning. I overtightened it and broke it just befor the plastic threads. It's fixed, but when I took the shroud off to give myself some room to work (and light) I noticed that my radiator is in really bad shape. I was going to wait till spring to put in an electric fan, but since I need a new radiator I guess I'll do them both at the same time.
A few questions:
1: Is it worth it to get my radiator re-cored or should I just buy a new one? Anybody know where I could get a good deal on a new one (just a factory replacement)?

2: What size fan should I buy? 16"? I know the Taurus has a good sized one from other posts, but I want to buy one new and don't have time to find a used one.

3: Is there any real advantage to the Flex-a-lite model that is made to bolt in besides the ease of installation? I think I'd rather save $$$ and fabricate a bracket, but if they are more durable or water resistant or something I might condsider one.
 

OPPS!

I hear ya brother! I noticed the poor condition of my radiator last January, of course it went a couple weeks later. I replaced it with a 3 core unit I got off the internet. I have had no problem since. As for the taurus fan, I am unsure of the year or what the exact fit is, but I am planning on a electric conversion. I have looked at a couple of different types, flex-a-lite electric, and replacement, a generic brand and more. The electric flex-a-lite seams to be the best bang for the buck. it is a exact fit, comes with a new temp switch. the ability to shut off for deep water crossing, and my favorite a warranty! A bit pricy, but according to my research it is worth it!
 
If you fancy fabricating a few brackets, you can pick up an Aluminum radiator from Seco cheaper than a replacement Jeep one. They come with generic bolt holes for mounts. They are not all that hard to mount though. Measure yours and note where the hoses enter and exit then check out Seco to see if they have oneclose to it. I think the name brand is Northern but don't quote me on that.
 
I too feel your pain. New radiator heater core hoses clamps thermostat yada yada yada this winter. But in the end it is worth the effort. As for getting it recored take to a good radaitor shop and if it is worth saven they will and if not they will help you get a good deal on a new one. 79 cj7 radaitor ran me 160 buck or there a bout in price for a new 3 row with a lifetime coverage. Peace of mind priceless. tug
 

www.radiatorbarn.com can get you a new one cheap and quick.

Don't get a parts-store universal fan, the bearings don't last. I imagine the Flexalite is of better quality, but I'm going OEM Ford Taurus. Doesn't matter that it's used, it'll last.
 
I remember when I got my radiator that there were several web sites that were all the exact same except for the name. It looked like one company was running several different domain names and some had significantly better prices than others. It was strange. My advice is spend a few minutes shopping around before you order one.
 
Bounty__Hunter said:
www.radiatorbarn.com can get you a new one cheap and quick.

Don't get a parts-store universal fan, the bearings don't last. I imagine the Flexalite is of better quality, but I'm going OEM Ford Taurus. Doesn't matter that it's used, it'll last.

$142 shipped with lifetime warranty. Pretty good deal, thanks Bounty. I'd like to get a Taurus fan, but I have so little time off these days, it's just so much easier to point and click than to drive around or even call around to junkyards. Haven't really made up my mind yet, but I'm going to do it soon.
 
I got a radiator at a local parts store today and my fan is guaranteed to be here tomorrow. I broke down and got the Flex-a-lite, mainly because it bolts right in, has a built in adjustable thermostat, and a warranty (plus a 90 day return policy from Summit Racing).
I'm looking forward to quicker heat and a few more ponies - I need all I can get out of my 2.5L!
 
Well I got everything installed. The radiator is the wrong one but fits. It has two nipples on the motor side at the bottom. I don't know what they are for (mine didn't have them) but I just ran a hose between them and it seems ok. It's really cold here and the fan doesn't come on unless I turn the thermostat all the way down, which lets it run all the time when it has power and I have it wired to constant power so it will continue to cool after I shut it off. The radiator is smoking when the motor gets hot and I'm not sure if it's got some leak somewhere or if it is some kind of oil burning off or paint or what. Right now I'm letting it cool down all the way to try adjusting the thermostat one more time and get a better look at my radiator.
 

The ports you speak of are transmission fluid lines for if you had an auto. You can cap them or leave them open.

The smoke may be the newness, I dunno.

I usually set my fan to turn on at 210*.
 
Bounty__Hunter said:
The ports you speak of are transmission fluid lines for if you had an auto. You can cap them or leave them open.

The smoke may be the newness, I dunno.

I usually set my fan to turn on at 210*.

I can leave them open? OK, so they are for transmission fluid (duh) so they are independant of the coolant. Got it.

The smoke coming off it kind of smells like when you first turn on a new grill or oven or something. Anyhow, the smoke seems to be lessening and the coolant level is still full, so I'm not concerned about it. I still want to put some wire loom on the wiring and change the cheap connectors that came with it but for now here's the finished product:

PDRM0021JPG-2.jpg


PDRM0023JPG-2.jpg
 
Stupid question here. The electric fan comletely replaces the belt driven one? So you can remove the big ugly shroud and fan blade? I like that idea. Make it much easier to work in there. But another question. What happens if your electric fan craps out on the trail. Are they reliable. OK sorry that was 3 questions.... :lol:
 
Yes it replaces them, yes you can yank them, and Yes, there's lots of room to work now! If it craps out I'd say you'd be in a bind, but that would be the case for many things that can break or go up at any given time! As far as reliability, I've heard good things about Flex-a-lite, and I'm going to install a kill switch for deep water so I don't fry it, but it would have to be pretty deep to worry about it!
 
You can cap the transmission ports with 1/8" NPT plugs ( #2 pipe plugs). You can probably get them at Lowe's. It's better to cap them, that way if you ever decide to get an automatic, you won't have them plugged up with mud.
 
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