Please......Some Carb Help

[civimike]

1040058

have s 1989 sahara with the 4.2L st six. I have the original carbarator on the car. This Carb is in serious need of a rebuild. I purchased the 38/38 weber from Quadtratec. (K551-38)I brought the new carb, and my jeep to my local macahnic. He Is worried about the computer connections that go to the old carb. There are no new connections on the new webber carb. Has anyone ever used this webber carb? Good luck? bad luck? Will it still pass emisions after I install the Weber? Any info would be helpfull.

[addsig]

 

[TerryMason]

1040059

Ahhh... the wonderful carter carb. I wonder what they were thinking when they originally put those on Jeeps.

Anyway, you shouldn't throw away your original carb. In Virginia (where I live) it's not legal to put a weber on. I think that you should pass the mechanical smog check, but you probably won't pass a visual inspection (You can buy adapters to put the stock air cleaner on and "hide" the new weber though). I guess the theory is that they don't want people messing with the emissions system and possibly making more pollution, even though you're probably improving it.

I haven't installed the weber myself, but I don't think it uses the computer at all, and basically takes it out of the equation, which is a better way to do things for you. If your state requires smog checks, your mechanic should be able to tell you if it's legal or not (as long as he does emmissions test at his shop).

Terry

[addsig]

 

[tangel]

1040066

Civimike,
I just put a Weber 32/36 on my '86 CJ7 about a month ago. The power increase was not quite as much as I had anticipated, but it was definitely noticeable. The Weber carb will not use any of the computer connections for the original carburetor, and does away with a number of pollution control devices. If you follow the instructions that come with the carburetor, it will retain the EGR and PCV, and Pulse Air emissions systems. I believe if you keep these emission systems operable, the new carburetor should pass the mechanical emissions test without difficulty. To pass the visual part you will most likely have to get the adapter that Terrymason mentioned and use the original air cleaner. Search for "weber Jeep install" and similar things to come up with some websites that provide helpful information and pictures. One of the most helpful pages I've found is http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm This is an index that breaks down and explains all the mess of emissions stuff on your engine. I hope this helps you, good luck with your install, the driveablility improvement is worth it!

-Tangel
[addsig]

 

[jprtroy]

1040114

Carb's. A thing of the past for me!. Anyone owning a CJ with the 6cyl should think about fuel injection! Start saving those greenbacks! Go ahead rebuild the carb, get to so it'll drive until you have the coin for the kit. I realize the average joe can't outright afford fuel injection. they ain't cheap. I installed the Mopar Multiport kit on my 82' CJ-5 and that kit ROCKS! I've posted about it earlier.
The kit is easily installed, good easy to follow instructions. It pains me to see people fighting with carb's now. With EFI, you'd never have to worry about ; flooding out on hills, stalling, rough idle, hard starts, (specially on steep inclines) Back when I had my carb, I remember shopping around for a new one. the carter BBD (what a pile!) a brand new one was $400 or some ridiculous figure, a rebuilt (refurbished) was $250. I choose a refurbished one, and ended up rebuilding it many times over the yrs. I couldn't use any other style as smog would fail it visually. (plus the ECM or computer wouldnt plun into any other carb) I'm fortunate enough to have a good job that pays enough to allow me to afford jeep goodies. I still put some coin away for a few months so I could get the kit, and not have sticker shock after the purchase.
I know the carb is the cheap & easy way to go, but,if you get rid of that s.o.b. you will be glad!
Sorry I wasn't any help on fixing your immediate issue.
Later
Troy




[addsig]

 

[SBJeepster]

1040135

I have a 1978 Cj7. Can somebody help me with me with my problem? Everytime I go up a steep hill the engine dies and i have to start it back up. Is this good? So i got to take a good run at it to make it to the top.

Also is it good to jump my jeep.

Please help

 

[synergy]

1040137

yeazh its probally your carbs flooding itself because of the steep angle, of course is this a steep oh shit kinda hill or a regular type of hill. and jumping isnt good but who cares. I jump my jeep off anything that stand s still long enough for me to drive on it.
[addsig]

 

[SBJeepster]

1040147

Does anybody know how to prevent this? Do i need a new carb? ANd does Anybody know where i can get a 6" lift.

What does CJ stand for?.
If it has "Golden Eagle limited edition" on it, is it really limited?
Whats the biggest engine a 1978 CJ7 can hold?
Where can i get some High proforamce mufflers, exhast system, air filter, spark plugs, and spark plug wires?
I also need a Top. Which on is better Hard or soft?

 

[jprtroy]

1040152

SBjeepseter CJ = Civilian Jeep. How much money do you have? That answere will determin how big a motor you'll be able to squeeze into a CJ tub. Chevy 350's fit nicely, LT1's fit nicely, Dodge 360's have been squished in, AMC offered the 390, and 401. (maybe not in that year though)
Tops? What is your local climate like? do you live in a "snow belt" or sunny climate. If you live in an area that freezes every year, your jeep top will also freeze, and the clear plastic windows can shatter if tried to roll up while frozen.
On the other hand, a hard top in warm areas, is a pain in the ass to remove, usually requiring at least 2 people to do it. They will protect better in cold (freezing) climates and more quiet while rolling down the HWY.
I'd say, warm climate, go with a soft top. Snowy climate, hard top. Soft tops can be removed and rolled up while wheeling too!. Hard top? can be removed at a camp, used for a secondary or only table, with storage under.
Parts? Try 4wd.com I think is the address. Four Wheel Drive Hardware.
For the stalling problem, only real way I know to get rid of it is to get rid of the carb it's self! GO with Fuel Injection! Any fuel injection system available today will far out run any carb for the jeeps. And yes, for those that have read my posts in the past I'm GONNA say it again!
The MOPAR kit RULES! Sequential multi-port fuel injection. (What the new TJ's have)
Damn thing will run upside down! (till the oil dissapears that is)
One trick I heard about thru a mag. article way back when, was to install a adjustable fuel pressure regulator in the fuel supply line to the barb. This was basically for rock climbing, or really bumpy trails.
Theroy was, as you entered the trailhead, adjust the fuel regulator down. The one I had was numbered 1-9. As you enter the trailhead, you dial down the regulator, this, restricted the amount of fuel entering the carb, allowing the motor to keep the bowl(s) not full. While the regulator was dialed down, you couldn't go fast, (Course in rocks that's not a problem) Regular trail speed around 5 to 10mph maybe. After the run, you'd have to dial up the regulator, because the motor will starve for fuel.
I did this to my jeep before I fuel injected it, and it seemed to help. It kept the motor from flooding out. But my motor (the 82') was a guiney pig for smog crap. Had all sorts of crap to monitor, adjust, control the spark, fuel , and timing. When things didn't work, they REALLY didn't work. I cut all the crap out when I installed the fuel injection!




[addsig]

 

[SBJeepster]

1040169

I think ill just stick with the carb. but i still not a new top and doors. What is the best kind and the cheapest. i need the cheapest because i might roll it a mess it up. and enough money to buy anything for it.

what does TJ and YJ mean.

Everytime i shift into reverse the gears always grind. what kind i do to prevent this.? My transmission is Manual.