Painting Help

Ritt

New member
RE: Selling the Jeep (ouch)

I painted my 48 Willys last spring with Rust Encapsulator Primer just to hold it for a year. Now I want to finish the rest of the body work , media blast the underside of the tub and paint next May when its warm enough.

What type of feed can I get away with on a Gravity Feed gun with 8 cfm at 45 - 50 PSIG available? Is this enough?

What is a good gun for both primer and finish coat then clear? Not too expensive? Are the guns on Harbor Freight ok?

What settings do I use for color finish coat and for clear coat? Do I need a special gun?

T.I.A.
 

I have only painted one vehicle with one of those Professional style gravity feed guns, and I picked it up at JC whitney, and I used a flat black suade type paint to hide the imperfections.

Other than that, sorry man!
 
Most any gravity feed gun will do the trick. The Key to keeping things working well is keeping the gun clean. I used to paint at a shop for 7 years. the 2 big players for spray guns were Sata and Devilbis Both are going to be very expansive for the accasional user. Also if a gun sits to long the seals wll dry up and need to be replaced. You could get away with using 1 gun for all stages of the paint job as long as you stick to the basics. No pearl or metal flack in the clear kind of thing. I wish I could help with the air requirements its been awhile since I've sprayed anything.

Hope it helps
 
Thanks for the info. I can't wait to get started. I just want to use a good quality paint to resto it, nothing fancy. It just wouldn't be right.
 

That's more than enough air for a gravity feed gun. The Harbor Freight gravity guns are fine. Just keep it clean. Get a filter separator while you are at it.
The best primer I have found is Sherwin Williams 988 self etching in a spray can. They probably sell it by the quart as well. I have knocked the paint clear offbu the primer held.
 
RE: My Jeep

First things first. the Harbor freight guns will work just fine for what you are doing. You already know that the end product will only be as good as your ability. If you stay with a solid color and wet sand and buff to get rid of any runs, dry spray, or trash the the job should look just fine. You need to buy one of thoes filters that go on the gun at the air inlet. this will keep moisture and oil out. As for as the settings you need to set the air pressure according to what the paint calls for and fine tune it from there. set you spray pattern by spraying some paper taped on the wall. adjust it for the widest pattern the gun can achieve without it looking like an hourglass shape. when painting the jeep overlap each pass by 50% and if your using base coat clear coat only spray enough base to achieve a uniform color coverage. the first coat of clear will be kinda dry the second and third coats medium wet. 3 coats of clear will give you enough to wet sand and buff out alot of dirt. What color are you going to paint it?
 

RE: Trailer towing package 4.0L XJ 1998

whiterubicon said:
What color are you going to paint it?

Thanks,

I'm finding this to be the toughest part of the whole job :D . As I mentioned, winter is here so all outside work just slows way down, I have until May to deside. I don't want a color that will be too far away from stock looking, I aways liked dark, maybe blue or green. There was a little original paint left up under the dash and inside of the "tool box" under the rider's seat, light gray. There probably was 4 coats of crapy stuff over everything else. I used paint stripper to get it down to bare metal on the top surfaces but I'll pull the tub off and get it media blasted some time this winter. I have to besure it doesn't get sprayed by road salt bring it home.

I kind of learned a little spraying the Rust Encapsulator last June but I still have more body work to really smooth out some ripples. I sent some pics to the seller the way it looks now and he said he wants it back. He also said he's glad he gave it to the right guy.


pictureJPG-4.jpg


pictureJPG-5.jpg
 
Back
Top