Need help with cherokee sport brakes

mrdrac

New member
So you think you got mods, eehhhh?

Hi GUYS

I have problem with the brake jobs, i have removed old rotor and pad.. and installed new front rotor and pads and installed everything back in. but the problem is that the jeep is dragging the brake from time to time when i put my gear into D and released the brake and it won't move.. and i applied some of gas pedal to move, i could feel the scratching or dragging on certain area, and i figured that rotor is not straight so i took it back to store and exchanged and still have same problem i have cleaned the hub area.

anybody know what causing this. it is getting frustrating to figure it out.

i already tried the bleeding the brake system on front only and still have same effect. what am i missing? bad wheel bearing, i have checked with tire mounted and it is pretty tight so i assume that the wheel bearing is fine.

strange when i put lug nut on it and tighten, it will not rotate (move) it is stuck. when i loose up the lug nut, the tire could rotate ( move ) smoothly so i have tested took the tire off and calipers assembly off and leave the new rotor in and put lug nuts in and tighten and it wont move at all.

anybody have idea what kind of problem that is.

thank you very much, im so glad that i found jeepz.com

David G.

my jeep is 1999 Cherokee Sport 4x4 with drum in rear...

the rotor is front.
 

Bleed the brake fluid? Loosen up the bleeding bolt or how ever you called it.. and press about couple times til it really squirts out and Press down all the way and hold.. Have a friend help you so while you press and hold, he can close it off or tighten it. one side at a time.
 
i think i bleed it in wrong way. i had my friend pump 5 times then i let it come out and tighten. i quess that wrong process... thanks! i ll try that. :D
 

The proper way to bleed a system without using a pump is:
1) have a friend press & HOLD brake pedal.
2) You loosen bleeder screw until fluid squirts out.
3) when no more fluid is coming out, you close bleeder valve
4) have friend release brake pedal
5) repeat until clean fluid with no air bubbles comes out.

Note that you should not release the pedal with the bleeder valve open or you must start all over again

You MUST bleed the brakes in the proper order, which is furthest from the Master cylinder first and on towards it. Normally the order is:

Rear right
Rear left
Front right
Front left

If you don't bleed all four brakes Any time the system is opened up, you probably won't get all the air out.

Also, maybe your rims are too big? Did you buy aftermarket rims or are they stock? It sounds like maybe the rim is pressing against the caliper causing it to drag.

Hope that helps :D
-Nick :!:
 
okay, my friend come by and helped me bleed the brake system.

still no luck... do you guys think the calipers maybe seized?

does brake seized cause the brake to hold the calipers.

if you guys don't know, next shot is the damned ripoff auto shop.

thanks guys for helping out, this website is champ..

David
 
mrdrac said:
does brake seized cause the brake to hold the calipers.

Hmmm, I'm not quite sure what you're asking. If the caliper pistons become stuck in the out position, it would cause the brake pads to drag or lock up the wheel. Also, the caliper slide pins (the bolts) must be heavily greased to ensure the caliper assembly can freely slide back and forth.

However, you didn't say anything about the rims. The fact that tightening the lug nuts makes the brakes grip sounds like something is pressing on the calipers when the wheel is on.

-Nick :!:
 

Okay let me explain clear...

number 1...

when i take the caliper off the caliper frame. and there is only rotor attached to the hub... the rotor and hub does rotates smoothly... as i leave as is. and i throw in the lug nuts in into rotor to put rotor into place... when all lug nuts is tighten... the rotor/hub will NOT rotate at all. it is stuck in... even without the caliper being in place on the frame. i suspect there is problem with hub assembly.

does you guys think that is the hub?

David
 
Here is the NEWS

i solve the problem>

first of all rotor is wrong size. what a stupid pep-boys store. the thickness of the top of rotor where 5 holes is. the metal thickness is too thin and it pressed against the lower part of disc brake guard.

pisses me off and im calling pepboys to resolve with the stupid computer that gives wrong rotor.

GRRR!

david
 
hey I am having the same problem with my 2000 Jeep wrangler 4cyl. 5spd.

I have gone through three different sets of rotors and they all do EXACTLY what you are saying. I did the same test as you were I put the rotor on the hub and tighten down the lugs with no caliper and no wheel and the damn thing is so tight it wont even turn!

So what is the verdict?? Did you find the right rotors at Pep Boys? What was the price and the part number if you dont mind me asking?

I appreciate any help you could give me! I hate the fact that this simple brake job has had my Jeep off the road for a week now and still counting! :evil:

Any info is much appreciated!

Please email info to Scottcba1@aol.com!

THANK YOU!

-Scott,NJ
 

Have you tried the dealer? I know they charge too much, but at least you'll get the Jeep back on the road :D . I had a similar experience with my rear wheel cylinders. The parts stores sold one's that didn't fit by like 1/16", so had to resort to the dealer :roll:.

-Nick :!:
 
Hi Guys

NICKXJ, you might have to resort to dealership, I didn't!! I contacted Dealership, and they said they have correct brake rotor for my jeep which are for early 1999 models. the rotor i grabbed from pepboys ( the wrong one ) is for late 99 models. Dealership price is 105 each.

for late models of 1999 jeep cherokee is raybestos pg plus rotor part number 7142.

for early model of 1999 jeep cherpkee is raybestos pg plus rotor part number 76923 both cost almost same 55 dollar each.

now my jeep is moving and providing me a superior braking.

im posting this in case if somebody have same problem as i do.

have fun jeepin. :lol: :mrgreen: :p :) 8)
 
No, you mis-understood me.

I was talking about rear wheel cylinders on my 1988 Cherokee. Just trying to make a point that sometimes you have no choice :roll:.

But, I'm glad to hear you got your problem solved :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

-Nick :!:
 

heheh oh i got it. sorry ha. alrite. thanks for your help, everyone is great to help each other. next thing i will do the bleeding of brake i wanted to get rid of old fluid in the brake and put fresh clear brake fluid. and ur helpful on that info :)

Take care

go JEEPING there's nothing like one.
 
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