Make my own Roll Cage

The tube would crimp or collapse. The area that would need to be heated couldn't be done all at once and you couldn't complete the bend in one motion, which would mean inconsistancies. As it bent, it would try to pull away from the wheel, making an uneven bend.....if it worked at all.

If I'm wrong, please let me know. I'd really be interested in seeing the results.
 
Re: RE: liquid check valve???

I'll just have it made up when the time (very quickly) comes..... Thank you for all the suggestions, I'll do the usual "Lazy Zach" and have somebody else (a "professional") do it for me, my mind is in full suspension mode right now...... and it hurts
 

Junkpile said:
Have you guys ever tried that heating it up and bending it around a rim trick yourselves? With tubing?

Many of times, of course there is a lot more to it then simpley heating and bending.

When I would do this, I would spend the time setting up jigs so I would know where ot bend the steel and how far to bend it, over bend and compensate for expansion/contraction during cooling. this is really a two person opperation. as for the collapsing, crimping, I never had that problem, If the majority of the heat is applied to the Out side portion of the radius, the inside will maintain majority of the integrity, while the actual bend would be accomplished with a slightly diminished wall thickness of the most out side portion of the radius. +/- .0025cm

Also most of the bends are not very drastic but rather more gradual, If I had to make a bend for a shock hoop for example, and the ID radius would be in the area of 5 inches at 300*, then I would take the piece to my local machine shop and have them make that bend.
 
RE: Pa Jeep Show Pics

Here's the deal. That bender pictured is more than likely a pipe bender not tube bender. The budget ones like that can be bought many places like Harbor Freight for dirt cheap. Nonetheless, it is made for pipe and here's why: Pipe is measured on the inside diameter and tube on the outside diameter. Therefore the pipe dies will not correctly fit tubing. That is why some of the guys said they used it but the bends looked jacked up. It will make dents at the edges of the die and also flatten the outer radius of the bent tube making it get narrow through the bend radius. The dies also commonly get wedged on the tube and you have to beat them off with a hammer. This is from personal experience before my friends and I went in on a Pro Tool hydraulic bender.
It will work, but your bends won't look very good and you will struggle with it. A good looking bend is not necessarily important to some but the quality of the bend (i.e dent and crush free) is directly related to how strong the bend is.
I wheel mine relatively hard and in some dangerous spots. I wouldn't consider riding Tellico, GrayRock and some other choice places without strict confidence in my cage. We see rollovers nearly every time we go out. Quality bends as well as frame and seat tie ins are the way to go if you are going to wheel it hard (judging from the questions you have asked previously, you are planning on running hard). I even fabbed up some handle bars with motorcycle grips for my wife.
If you are going to do some casual wheeling then something like a Smittybilt add on front hoop with spreaders may suffice. I would still recommend tying it into the frame.
Balance out money spent on tubing and tools vs. buying a cage from a local shop and you will have your answer. I high quality cage from an offroad shop will likely be in excess of $1000. Money well spent if you consider the price of hospitals and funerals these days.
 
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