Machinist Advice -- Engine Turning

Hello All,

I am looking for advice on the topic of "engine turning," a metal decorative finishing technique.

I want to do this...

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to one of these: a CJ-7 stainless steel dash overlay.

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The one engine turning method suited to a home shop that I am aware of is the wooden dowel in a drill press method: chuck a wooden dowel in a drill press, put a gob of grinding compound on the lower end of the dowel, lower the spinning dowel onto the work piece and grind the circular pattern into the metal. Move workpiece and repeat, again, and again, and again.

Obviously, a great deal of meticulous work.

Anyone know of another engine turning technique, less labor intensive yet suited to a basement (no lathe) workshop?

Gadget
 

I have heard of useing some very fine hard steel shaveing in the compound to speed up the work but that is the only other way I know of. Good luck tug
 

I did that to a friends 78 Firebird dash some years back!
I was lucky, the shop I wirked at had a bridgeport (huge drillpress with a vice and computer that has 6 compound plains of motion) We used a steel brush bit designed for removing paint. I think we got it from Harbor freight, I will see if I can find a #. Just set the stops so the brush was barely about the aluminum and made swirls. move the vice the desired amount and made another so forth. Started in the top left working from left to right and up to down! came out nice. Now that I am thinking of it, I think eastwood company might offer a similar kit! I will heck it out for ya Inspector!

Johnny
 
Hi-Ya Tug, Bounty, mingez, jps4jeep,

Thanks to all for the replies and some good ideas.

Johnny: I like the wire brush idea. I am fortunate to have a Sears Hardware Heaven and a Harbor Freight store nearby. This will be a great excuse to go to the Sears store and check out the assortment of wire brushes while pigging-out on the free "Craftsman" popcorn.

Bounty: I agree. It will surely be difficult to keep the swirls aligned in two directions. Especially difficult given my tendency to zone-out during repetitive work. The plan at this point is to clamp small boards to the drill press table as guides or fences for the movable workpiece.

mingez: I appreciate your preference for the smooth look of the stainless steel dash overlay, but I favor the engine turned finish. It was popular during the 20s and 30s for airplane cowls and instrument panels and often seen on British sports car dashboards of that period.

Here is a stellar example (ca. 1926-27) of the engine turning technique as applied to a very famous airplane.

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Keeping in mind that the builders of the Spirit of St. Louis would not have had CNC-machines at their disposal, how in the world do you suppose that was done?!?!?!

What a great example of the blending of craftsman and artisan!

Gadget
 

well.. to get the design even on a drill press.. you could make a grid, with squares of a width and height equal to the distance of the circles' centers.... then secure your workpiece onto another square object.... lay the "workpiece square" onto your grid, start one "turn" then move to an adjacent square, then move down one line, then back... you should eventually have an even pattern all the way through
 
SYE question with my new engine

The old swrilled brush look was done on aluminmum with a small wire brush. High speed and low pressure should do it. the best way at home is to make a wooden jig for a drill press.
Drill 1/4 inch holes in a line the same width of your brush.next drill a line perpendicular from the one you just drilled. Now drill the same pattern paralle to it. It should look like a big square cornered "U".

Clamp this down to the drill press table and you have your jig.

Chuck your wire brush in your drill chuck and true the face with a heavy grit stone so all of the brissels are flush to the face are running speed.
By using 1/4 dowle pins you can move your work surface side to side and front to back in a neat pattern. Dont worrie if the pattern is slightly off.

Remember high speed and low pressure.
 
Hello Snitty and Utah__Jeepster,

Thanks for the replies.

I like both of your ideas. I believe that I can now take everyone's helpful suggestions and synthesize a method that will work for me.

I can now tackle this job with some confidence.

Thanks to all who took the time to read and reply.

Gadget
 

I am planning on making an engine turned dash for my 46 CJ2A. I plan on making it in three sections with the center hinged to access the electrical and heater systems. A few years ago I built a dash panel for my boat from 18 guage stainless and engine turned it. I used a valve from a small block chevy with leather glued to it. I made a grid on the stainless with felt marker and used course valve grinding compound on the leather and did all the turning with a hand held 1/2 inch drill. It was pretty easy to hold the drill true because the valve grinding compound is oil based and if you start with a polishied sheet very little pressure is required. I had to place the dash on a sheet of plywood and stand on it while holding the drill to keep things straight but it turned out nice.Took forever but looks nice. Have you checked out fpmmetals.com? Let me know how this turns out and how you did it.
 
I am planning on making an engine turned dash for my 46 CJ2A. I plan on making it in three sections with the center hinged to access the electrical and heater systems. A few years ago I built a dash panel for my boat from 18 guage stainless and engine turned it. I used a valve from a small block chevy with leather glued to it. I made a grid on the stainless with felt marker and used course valve grinding compound on the leather and did all the turning with a hand held 1/2 inch drill. It was pretty easy to hold the drill true because the valve grinding compound is oil based and if you start with a polishied sheet very little pressure is required. I had to place the dash on a sheet of plywood and stand on it while holding the drill to keep things straight but it turned out nice.Took forever but looks nice. Have you checked out fpmmetals.com? Let me know how this turns out and how you did it.



Why not set it up in a mill, chuck up a grinding disc and slow feed it back and forth? That's how I would do it.
 

Yeah, I just noticed this thread, and thought Gadget was back....
 
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