jackflack44
New member
Do you guys suggest short arm or long arm suspension lifts? Also, what is the difference?
Long or short...
- Thread starter jackflack44
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jackflack44
New member
Other than the obvious, I mean performance wise.
Long is better.
short arms do not allow a longer spring to move along it's natural progression and tend to pull the axle towards the pivot point when moving downward, also, springs can dislodge, suspension loads and binds, You tube search three wheel jeep, that is what happens with a 4" lift and short arms.
IIPO, short arms should not be unsed with a spring over 2.5"
short arms do not allow a longer spring to move along it's natural progression and tend to pull the axle towards the pivot point when moving downward, also, springs can dislodge, suspension loads and binds, You tube search three wheel jeep, that is what happens with a 4" lift and short arms.
IIPO, short arms should not be unsed with a spring over 2.5"
jackflack44
New member
So if i wanted to do a 4"-6" lift definitely go with long? Do you think the jeep would look akward with 4"- 6" of lift and 33" tires?
I've been running 4''lift & 33''s for 5 yrs now with no ill effects. On the RTI I score around 850 ( just to give you an idea on the flex ) But 4'' is the max you should go with 4" lift.
Though FL. is nothing like Wind Rock.
If you would like to see a pic of the jeep let me know.
Though FL. is nothing like Wind Rock.
If you would like to see a pic of the jeep let me know.
jackflack44
New member
Ya, I'd love to see a picture. Whats the RTI? What do you mean by 4" is the max I should go with 4" lift?
jackflack44
New member
Item #TJ401BPH-R / Skyjacker Suspensions
What do ya'll think about this?
What do ya'll think about this?
Depends on how you use the Jeep. If you don't get off road much this kit would be fine. I bought this kit initially when I was thinking about going from a 2" budget lift to a 4" short arm. The kit was on sale at 4WD Hardware for $480 with free shipping. The problem is, after I bought it on an inpulse I started checking around and found that there are some problems with the kit. First of all, you'll notice it doesn't come with any upper control arms, so if you want to run an SYE that's an added expense. The lower links it does come with are fixed length and reuse the stock bushings (no flex joints). I read reviews that said it flexes poorly and the lack of flex/adjustability caused severe wear on the control arm mounts. Also I saw lots of poor reviews about the shocks. Another problem is that if you look closely you'll notice that the kit comes with extended sway bar end links front and rear, no disconnects - so that will limit your suspension travel. The kit comes with a track bar bracket extension for the front and rear but still you won't be able to dial in your axles without an adjustable track bar.
What I ended up doing was I kept the springs and shocks for now and pretty much ditched the rest of the kit. I upgraded to a full upper and lower set of X-Flex control arms from Rough Country, added a front adjustable track bar from Rough Country and a rear adjustable track bar from JKS, a set of Quicker swaybar disconnects for the front from JKS (I did keep the Skyjacker extended rear links) and ditched the transfer case spacers for a PORC SYE kit.
In other words, I spent about $1500 or so to correct the shortcomings of this kit. The price of this kit is great and if you use your Jeep mostly on-road this kit might work OK for you, but if you do any serious off-roading you'll be ahead of the game buying a better lift kit like the 4" X-Flex kit from Rough Country which comes with upper/lower adjustable control arms and an adjustable front track bar - just the full set of X-Flex control arms will run you almost $700 seperately, so it'll save you money in the long run. Learn from my mistake
.When I say 4" is the max with a short arm the reason being is besause of the angle of the lower control arms. Now my jeep being a Rubi LJ I don't need a SYE and haveing a longer wheel base, I seem to do alright with a short arm.
The lift I'm running is a RC4" series II.Before the front controle arms get to the axle side they streighten out so they going streight to the axle not at an angle. But yes the 4" x lift would be nice.
Any way heres the jeep on the RTI
The lift I'm running is a RC4" series II.Before the front controle arms get to the axle side they streighten out so they going streight to the axle not at an angle. But yes the 4" x lift would be nice.
Any way heres the jeep on the RTI
jackflack44
New member
Is there a good 4 inch lift for under $1000? Long arm?
jackflack44
New member
So how does this RTI scale work? Looks pretty cool.
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
jackflack44
New member
How much did that run you?
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
I paid around 1700$ at the time. The company has made several changes to its lift kits since 2001. But this is one of the most important things your going to add to your jeep. I always tell people to wait till you can afford the best kit you can buy.
Your lift kit determines how your jeep rides on and off-road.
Your lift kit determines how your jeep rides on and off-road.
jackflack44
New member
I understand that, I'm a high schooler making minimum so it's hard to save up that much money.
Personally RTI scores don't mean junk to me, especially when an RTI score makes no specific determination about proper suspension geometry.
You can run 4" spring lift with a short arm kit, on the street, you'll probably never know it. once you introduce axle articulation to the equation, this is where the issue arises, and it gets worse once you lock the axles.
I understand your on a highschool budget, so budget your money appropriately.
if you want 33" tires, get a 1" body lift and 2" Budget lift. you will be with in the useful range of the stock arms, fit the tires, and have fun for less money. then I would save up for some rocker protection, oil pan protection, front and rear lockers etc..
Just to add, in my opinion, lockers are more helpful offroad than slinky suspension
You can run 4" spring lift with a short arm kit, on the street, you'll probably never know it. once you introduce axle articulation to the equation, this is where the issue arises, and it gets worse once you lock the axles.
I understand your on a highschool budget, so budget your money appropriately.
if you want 33" tires, get a 1" body lift and 2" Budget lift. you will be with in the useful range of the stock arms, fit the tires, and have fun for less money. then I would save up for some rocker protection, oil pan protection, front and rear lockers etc..
Just to add, in my opinion, lockers are more helpful offroad than slinky suspension
jackflack44
New member
What about a 2.5" standard skyjacker with a 1" body lift?
The standard Skyjacker kit would be fine, but honestly you can get a good budget lift for $200 or so and you really won't notice any better performance from the standard Skyjacker kit. I would suggest either the Rubicon Express 2" budget lift or the Rough Country budget lift, both are good. If you've never really wheeled your Jeep, you'll be amazed at the trails/obstacles you can clear with just a budget lift. I was able to keep up with guys in full size trucks on blue (medium) trails at Paragon with just a 2" budget lift and my stock Wrangler GS-A tires a couple years ago. You have to be more careful about what lines you pick, but believe me you can have plenty of fun and get into plenty of trouble with just a budget lift. Then once you're out of school and/or have more income you can upgrade.
LOL I ran Pebbles and Bam Bam (a red trail) at Paragon with a stiff arse 3" lift and 33's with welded diffs (in a D35 OHHH) made it with out a tug or breaking stuff, but that was pretty much the begining of the end for my YJ. I ran that balls to the walls knowing I had the D44's and 36 waiting to be installed at home.
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