I have read most of the old threads on lifts and still cannot make up my mind which one to buy. For around $500 shipped (give or take $30 or so) I can get Rough Country, Hellcreek, or Rustys. Am I correct in understanding that all three of these are essentially the same Rough Country lift, but each one uses different springs? From what I have gathered, the only one of the three to use double wrapped springs is Rusty's. If this is the case, I think it's the better deal, Anyone wanna talk me out of it? It looks like it comes with everything I need and won't have to buy anything extra. Though I do plan to add a 1" body lift as well.
Lift Kit experiences
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LVRockCrawler
New member
Re: RE: crank position sensor
as for 4" lifts, I like my Hellcreek, came w/the shocks and drop pitman arm link and Tom offers GREAT support... quick answers and solid advice... I like the idea of the military wrap w/Rusty's (didnt have an opinion at the time i got mine...) - esp. if youre gonna modify anything (i.e. the spring clips, add/remove leaves, etc)... and just remember... NO PRO-COMP!!!! ;O)
as for 4" lifts, I like my Hellcreek, came w/the shocks and drop pitman arm link and Tom offers GREAT support... quick answers and solid advice... I like the idea of the military wrap w/Rusty's (didnt have an opinion at the time i got mine...) - esp. if youre gonna modify anything (i.e. the spring clips, add/remove leaves, etc)... and just remember... NO PRO-COMP!!!! ;O)
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I like my Rusty's, has the full military wrap at the frame hanger end and a 1/2 wrap at the shackle end. Great added strength to the main leaf where it commonly bends, at the end of shorter 2nd leaves.
We bought two Rusty's kits at once and got a good break, they installed relatively easily and all 8 springs have performed and held up well over the last two years.
We bought two Rusty's kits at once and got a good break, they installed relatively easily and all 8 springs have performed and held up well over the last two years.
How were the instructions that came with your lift? I've never installed one by myself before so I need all the help I can get. Easy to follow directions/ease of installation will definitely play a part in my decision. LVRockCrawler, you say Hellcreek has great, excuse me, GREAT, support. Anyone have experience with Rustys instructions/support?
Edit: looks like you posted your experience with Rustys while I was spellchecking my post, Bounty! I know the topic of lifts has been just about beat to death on this forum, but you never know what small detail or tidbit of information you might glean if you rehash it once in awhile.
Originally I was going to do a SOA lift, but now I think this is the better way to go.
Edit: looks like you posted your experience with Rustys while I was spellchecking my post, Bounty! I know the topic of lifts has been just about beat to death on this forum, but you never know what small detail or tidbit of information you might glean if you rehash it once in awhile.
Originally I was going to do a SOA lift, but now I think this is the better way to go.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
headers
Better being relative. SUA is better in the sense it is relatively easy for the DIY shade-tree mechanic to install and generally handles better onroad. SOA is better in that they generally perform better offroad as the axles move more using flatter springs, although it requires a lot more experience to build and build correctly.
SOA isn't for everybody, and I'd recommend SUA for you. I'll likely go SOA when my D44's are ready to install.
Better being relative. SUA is better in the sense it is relatively easy for the DIY shade-tree mechanic to install and generally handles better onroad. SOA is better in that they generally perform better offroad as the axles move more using flatter springs, although it requires a lot more experience to build and build correctly.
SOA isn't for everybody, and I'd recommend SUA for you. I'll likely go SOA when my D44's are ready to install.
LVRockCrawler
New member
Ive done 2 lifts on YJ's and the instructions were both similar (almost carbon copy...) pretty complete, step-by-step and combined with some common sense and a bit of mech. inclination you shouldnt have a problem... just have a decent "breaker bar", some PB Blaster (or sim. penetrating oil) some bearing grease (for the bushings) and a good torque wrench....
as for the topic being "beat to death"... i dont think it can be and NO ONE should be shy about asking (you can do a search but things change fast and the old posts dont...) - i speak from experience... it was back in late 95 that i did my first lift and didnt have a post like this to ask... consequence: yes.. i bought a PRO-COMP lift... so any advice you can solicit you should and this site (usually) wont "flame" you for asking any question.... thats why i like it here!
as for the topic being "beat to death"... i dont think it can be and NO ONE should be shy about asking (you can do a search but things change fast and the old posts dont...) - i speak from experience... it was back in late 95 that i did my first lift and didnt have a post like this to ask... consequence: yes.. i bought a PRO-COMP lift... so any advice you can solicit you should and this site (usually) wont "flame" you for asking any question.... thats why i like it here!
TwistedCU
New member
RE: Radius arms?
Personally I'd stay away from Rough Country right now. There have been a few instances of new springs having sagging issues posted on here as of late.
Hell Creek and Rustys are both safe bets.
Have you considered Rubicon Express? They are very complete kits and come with better quality shocks (at least they do from this place) :
http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=148
?
By the time you pay shipping for the others the prices may be closer.
Personally I'd stay away from Rough Country right now. There have been a few instances of new springs having sagging issues posted on here as of late.
Hell Creek and Rustys are both safe bets.
Have you considered Rubicon Express? They are very complete kits and come with better quality shocks (at least they do from this place) :
http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=148
?
By the time you pay shipping for the others the prices may be closer.
GaryMB
New member
RE: stalling problem, mechanics can
From what I've heard about Rough Country, I would also not buy their springs. Hellcreek or Rusty's would be my bet for that lift. Unless your set on one of those three lifts, though, I would suggest Black Diamond Suspension or Rubicon Express. They're more expensive, but are great quality. Right now I'm running Rancho springs+shocks, and it is a quality suspension that handles great, but the ride is very rough. I'll be buying a set of RE springs later this week when I drive through Rancho Cordova.
From what I've heard about Rough Country, I would also not buy their springs. Hellcreek or Rusty's would be my bet for that lift. Unless your set on one of those three lifts, though, I would suggest Black Diamond Suspension or Rubicon Express. They're more expensive, but are great quality. Right now I'm running Rancho springs+shocks, and it is a quality suspension that handles great, but the ride is very rough. I'll be buying a set of RE springs later this week when I drive through Rancho Cordova.
jay79cj7
New member
RE: Stupid ground hog
I bought a Rough Country kit for my CJ7 from Hell Creek this winter. I didn't know it was a RC kit that I was getting because he doesn't advertise it as such on his website. Ask if you are not sure. I am fairly happy with it so far. It was really stiff at first, but it has smoothed out quite a bit. I have not had the problem with sagging springs that others have reported.
I bought a Rough Country kit for my CJ7 from Hell Creek this winter. I didn't know it was a RC kit that I was getting because he doesn't advertise it as such on his website. Ask if you are not sure. I am fairly happy with it so far. It was really stiff at first, but it has smoothed out quite a bit. I have not had the problem with sagging springs that others have reported.
slo-wrench44
New member
RE: Re: RE: Atlanta
i had the problem with the springs. i bout the rough country kit and thought the install was simple. only problem is the front springs sagged out in 3 months of highway driveing and two half hour off road trips. very sad . i was warned. didnt listen due to a budget. now i have been waiting for almos 2 1/2 months for new springs!!! not happy i have to drive it with the front bump stops touching so if you thought a lift was rough try driveing with no front suspention! i have wiped out both drag link ends and one ball joint since it went bad. and a u joint on the front axle. and i cant stop driveing it cuz its my only vehical. stay away from rouogh country if you can
i had the problem with the springs. i bout the rough country kit and thought the install was simple. only problem is the front springs sagged out in 3 months of highway driveing and two half hour off road trips. very sad . i was warned. didnt listen due to a budget. now i have been waiting for almos 2 1/2 months for new springs!!! not happy i have to drive it with the front bump stops touching so if you thought a lift was rough try driveing with no front suspention! i have wiped out both drag link ends and one ball joint since it went bad. and a u joint on the front axle. and i cant stop driveing it cuz its my only vehical. stay away from rouogh country if you can
sourceminer
New member
I bought a 3.5 inch Fabtech kit:
Box Kit 3.5" 87-96 Jeep YJ w/PS
The transfer case is relocated via billet spacers that allow the use of the stock skid plate
drop pitman arm, extended sway bar links, track bar relocation brackets.
YJ Front Leaf spring 4 leaf pack
YJ rear Leaf spring 5 leaf pack
Fabtech Performance Shock (front & Rear)
Looks good but I am still searching for a less bumpy ride. I know that having leaf springs will always make for a bumpy ride, but I cant help but think there has got to be a better ride! (driving my TRD Tacoma is like driving a cadillac) I have removed the rear track bar and loosened the Fabtech shock shackles, But still find myself dealing with a very rough ride. My guess would be the shocks are not doing there job. Any suggestions as to the shocks I should be using? Also should I remove the transfer lowering kit and replace the drive shafts?
Shocks that have been suggested:
Rancho 9000
Bilstein
Box Kit 3.5" 87-96 Jeep YJ w/PS
The transfer case is relocated via billet spacers that allow the use of the stock skid plate
drop pitman arm, extended sway bar links, track bar relocation brackets.
YJ Front Leaf spring 4 leaf pack
YJ rear Leaf spring 5 leaf pack
Fabtech Performance Shock (front & Rear)
Looks good but I am still searching for a less bumpy ride. I know that having leaf springs will always make for a bumpy ride, but I cant help but think there has got to be a better ride! (driving my TRD Tacoma is like driving a cadillac) I have removed the rear track bar and loosened the Fabtech shock shackles, But still find myself dealing with a very rough ride. My guess would be the shocks are not doing there job. Any suggestions as to the shocks I should be using? Also should I remove the transfer lowering kit and replace the drive shafts?
Shocks that have been suggested:
Rancho 9000
Bilstein
LVRockCrawler
New member
its a leaf spring jeep - gonna have a "buck-board" ride - there are things you can do to improve it (sent to you via PM) - removing the drop and R/R w/ new shafts will improve belly clearance and help w/vibes... also making room for more flex in the future but wont improve ride - the springs will settle in time (unless you install Pro-Comp - yikes...) and yield a bit better ride - but remember its a lifted, short wheel base, leaf sprung JEEP! not a Lexus... THANK GOD!!!! you'll appreciate that rough ride when youre off road soaking up the rocks and bumps and mud and trenches and dips and...... ENJOY!!!
p.s. you can always dump the lift you did do, spend the money on a spring over lift and use stock springs for a stock feeling ride....
p.s. you can always dump the lift you did do, spend the money on a spring over lift and use stock springs for a stock feeling ride....
sourceminer
New member
Ok so it has been a few weeks since I have done my lift... All I can say is BE CAREFUL when getting a Lift done.
Since my lift has been done, I have had weird vibrations, Rough Riding (even offroad), Motor mount broke (which also broke the distributor), Transmission mount busted, Transmission strut needing replacement, Rear wheel almost falling off (only 2 days in having them changed) because of the lugs not being tightend. this list is going on and on...
All I can thank for this mess is IMZZ Industries out of Brea CA! Thanks for not taking care of your customer.
I have called them and Called them to give him the chance to help a hurting customer out. Stupid of me to be so ignorant in the lifting experiences catagory.
I have probably spent about 3500.00 in all. I still have more issues I would like to be looked into, but everyone I turn to seems to have an argument against the previous person I have talked to. What a mess...
Since my lift has been done, I have had weird vibrations, Rough Riding (even offroad), Motor mount broke (which also broke the distributor), Transmission mount busted, Transmission strut needing replacement, Rear wheel almost falling off (only 2 days in having them changed) because of the lugs not being tightend. this list is going on and on...
All I can thank for this mess is IMZZ Industries out of Brea CA! Thanks for not taking care of your customer.
I have called them and Called them to give him the chance to help a hurting customer out. Stupid of me to be so ignorant in the lifting experiences catagory.
I have probably spent about 3500.00 in all. I still have more issues I would like to be looked into, but everyone I turn to seems to have an argument against the previous person I have talked to. What a mess...
sourceminer
New member
OK so since my post I have been doing a little research on SYE's. Seems that the argument for placing one of these on Jeeps with a 3.5" lift or more are common. Rather than just going out and getting one installed bla bla bla... I find it hard to believe that I would not have been advised of this. Should this be done?
The U joints are fine, I had the rear drive shaft balanced and extended, but I still have these Vibrations in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear, Can even feel them slightly in 5th.
The U joints are fine, I had the rear drive shaft balanced and extended, but I still have these Vibrations in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear, Can even feel them slightly in 5th.
TwistedCU
New member
RE: Is the RUBICON lifted compared to a stock tj.
Up to 3.5" is fine on a YJ without doing a SYE. You do, however, have to lower the transfer case.
4" is marginal, anything over 4" should really have a SYE, but you'll have people argue that they run 5" without one with no problems.
If they did a TC drop on yours, I would try loosening the 2 nuts* that position your transfercase on the skidplate. With them loose, drive around the block (taking it relatively easy) then retighten them. This will allow the transfer case to reposition itself to compensate for the TC drop.
* These are under your TC skidplate, the bolts they are attached to go through slotted holes in the skidplate.
That has alleviated vibes for me, and has worked for at least one other guy on this site (HiC maybe??? - I can't remember). My old BDS YJ kit had that procedure in it's installation instructions, I don't know why they all don't :?
My XJ's TC drop kit's instructions had me loosen the motor mounts before and tighten them after the installation.
I would think doing one or both of these could help your vibe problem if you have a TC drop and are only sitting at 3.5" of lift.
Up to 3.5" is fine on a YJ without doing a SYE. You do, however, have to lower the transfer case.
4" is marginal, anything over 4" should really have a SYE, but you'll have people argue that they run 5" without one with no problems.
If they did a TC drop on yours, I would try loosening the 2 nuts* that position your transfercase on the skidplate. With them loose, drive around the block (taking it relatively easy) then retighten them. This will allow the transfer case to reposition itself to compensate for the TC drop.
* These are under your TC skidplate, the bolts they are attached to go through slotted holes in the skidplate.
That has alleviated vibes for me, and has worked for at least one other guy on this site (HiC maybe??? - I can't remember). My old BDS YJ kit had that procedure in it's installation instructions, I don't know why they all don't :?
My XJ's TC drop kit's instructions had me loosen the motor mounts before and tighten them after the installation.
I would think doing one or both of these could help your vibe problem if you have a TC drop and are only sitting at 3.5" of lift.
hoobness
New member
save the money and do the work yourself, youll also know its not f..d up. I did my SYE 2 months ago and have no probs. its the Advance Adapts kit including shaft from tom woods. Easy as pie. the hardest part is putting the case back together. if you can assemble a plastic model kit, you can do 9/10 things to your jeep. patience, time and carefulness will save a ton of money and headaches.. 3500 for a lift, wow.
sourceminer
New member
Well well well... Wait till you guys read this!
Ok so as I stated above, I had a tire that almost came off on the highway with my wife and I in the jeep. This was after only 2 days of having new wheels and tires and the new lift kit installed. I had to pull off the road because of the noise. I found the tire wobbling on the stubs; HAND tightened then torqued the lugs down (as well as the other 3 tires!). Complained to IMZZ that someone obviously did not tighten the lugs. Their excuse was that because the Rims are aluminum the tires need to be re-tightened, what ever I said. So I let that one fly even though I knew that it was bogus... So the other problems I mentioned about wired creaking in the Suspension and Vibration while driving.
I thought about the tire thing and realized (after I had made a second trip to IMZZ to have things RE-Tourqued) That maybe they Still did not tighten anything down... I grabbed my 3/4 inch wrench and guess what!!! Tightened the damn u-bolts down! that’s right; they were loose on the rear axle. All the problems are gone! My suggestion to anyone that wants a lift, Do the research first... Learn about all the lift problems and recommendations, also check into what may be needed to go the next size up... sometimes that helps you understand what problems can occur. Or simply become an expert at the lift you want!
Ok so as I stated above, I had a tire that almost came off on the highway with my wife and I in the jeep. This was after only 2 days of having new wheels and tires and the new lift kit installed. I had to pull off the road because of the noise. I found the tire wobbling on the stubs; HAND tightened then torqued the lugs down (as well as the other 3 tires!). Complained to IMZZ that someone obviously did not tighten the lugs. Their excuse was that because the Rims are aluminum the tires need to be re-tightened, what ever I said. So I let that one fly even though I knew that it was bogus... So the other problems I mentioned about wired creaking in the Suspension and Vibration while driving.
I thought about the tire thing and realized (after I had made a second trip to IMZZ to have things RE-Tourqued) That maybe they Still did not tighten anything down... I grabbed my 3/4 inch wrench and guess what!!! Tightened the damn u-bolts down! that’s right; they were loose on the rear axle. All the problems are gone! My suggestion to anyone that wants a lift, Do the research first... Learn about all the lift problems and recommendations, also check into what may be needed to go the next size up... sometimes that helps you understand what problems can occur. Or simply become an expert at the lift you want!
Sparky-Watts
Banned
sourceminer said:
Actually, that is true of any new wheels, especially aluminum. It takes time for the lugs to actually "seat" into the rims properly before they will grip and hold without working loose. You should check them every 50 miles for the first couple hundred, then about every 100 miles for the next 3 or 4 hundred miles. After that, they should be seated properly and won't work loose anymore. Most any tire and wheel dealer will tell you that up front.
That just sucks. You need to spread the word about that offroad shop to all local wheelers. Any moron who has ever installed a lift knows that you have to retorque the damn bolts. They should have made sure you understood that before you ever left the first time.....but then you came back and they didn't even check it?.....they are going to kill someone. Never expect your customers to be as knowledgeable as you are.
