K link steering

[Joopin]

Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my steering linkage and I found this... what do you think?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/16064_302.htm

It basically puts an idler arm in the mix, gets rid of the trac bar, and puts a shackle reversal on the jeep. All the tie rod ends are put at less of an angle than I have now by a long shot.

Here is another link...
http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/03014wd_suspension_system/index.html

Thoughts?

thanks

 

[TwistedCU]

I think you should buy it. I've always been a big fan of Full Traction. Good quality, usually all bolt-on, and a solid fit.

If I had a SOA it's the route I would take.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Looks like the steering kit doesn't include the shackle reversal, although it may be part of the SOA kit. I wouldn't use a shackle reversal as it unloads traction at the front tires when you encounter an obstacle, the front tire moves upward and rearward instead of forward into the obstacle as with the stock setup. That reversal kit blows because it mounts the shackle below the spring hanger. To do it right, the upper shackle bolt should be sleeved through the frame to keep the back end of the spring up higher, keeping your leaf spring mounting points level.

That steering kit seems like it is getting away from being KISS simple.

For about $50 you can buy three tapered inserts and flip the stock steering to the top of the steering arms.

MORE has a decent kit: http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catalog/St Corr Kit/stcorrkt1.htm

 

[jps4jeep]

Jesse, I think your wasting money... Nice set up damn pricey

couple things

Here is my set up, ya it's a 44, so minus the steering arms cost about $150, the tubing 1.5 dia .25 wall DOM, simply drilled and taped for 7/8-24 thread and use moog F450 Tie rod end. Simply Ream my Pitman Arm, Ream out your knuckles (so that the tie rod ends sit above the ear) and have a killer set up. Or run heims.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

There are GM TRE's that you could have used to keep from having to ream your pitman arm.

http://goferitoffroad.com/products.htm is the tapered inserts to move your stock steering to the top of the steering arms. Cheaper than buying a reamer. $49 shipped to your door for 3 inserts.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I've got highsteer too, but it's easier on a D44

 

[Joopin]

Hmm, I'm gonna have to reconsider this then. It looks like you guys have some cheaper alternatives.

John, is your set up considered to be a high steer? I realize you are using better and beefier parts for the linkage, but I'm confused how you got your draglink at the lower angle. Is that a different knuckle than the D30 that I have? Can I modify my D30 knuckle into a high steer? What exactly do you mean by "steering arms" and what exaclty cost 150 bucks? ...Man I feel like a noob asking all this...

Thanks for the links bounty... of course I am looking for the cheapest way to do this, I'm going through a set tie rod ends every year. I actually have my mechanic put new axle seals on my D30 now, since he's got all that off already, I could have him throw on a different knuckle. (if that's what you guys are saying here)

Sorry for not understanding... I gotta get myself back into gearhead mode, it's been a while.

 

[Joopin]

Okay, I did some research and I now know what "steering arms" are, haha. John, is this kind of what you did?
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/steer/yjsoasteer/

or this?
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/steer/SOA/

Also, do either of you guys run front track bars? I don't see them in your pics. My jeep is unfortunately a daily driver too... so I have to have one right?

 

[currupt4130]

Joopin you can't do hi-steer like pictured above with the dana 30 as easily as with a 44. some 44's have flat top knuckles and allow you to bolt a steering arm to the top of the knuckle with some machine work. There are options out there for the 30, most only get the drag link up though. And for the record, I like full traction, but I don't like that K link thing. Personally I think that thing looks like a rock magnet with all the linkage and crap.

Here are a couple options:

http://www.rocky-road.com/yjott.html
http://jb4x4.com/products.htm
http://mountainoffroad.com/catalog/St Corr Kit/stcorrkt1.htm

The knuckle pictured below is one of mine (for my 44). It was a brand new casting, cast without the lower arm, but has the flat top for the hi steer. You can see the steering arm bolted to the knuckle. You can see a factory knuckle on the bench in the back with an arm bolted to it.

 

[TwistedCU]

That steering kit seems like it is getting away from being KISS simple.

I dunno... I think using an idler arm simplifies things, not complicates them.

I also like that it allows you to adjust the steering ratio. In addition, it is a really beefy kit (more so than the MORE kit).

Yeah there are cheaper alternatives, but I think considering the simplicity of this along with the fact that you can adjust the steering ratio it's not a bad value at $550. For a guy like me who likes to do his own work, but has a limited time frame to do it, kits like this one are a no-brainer.

 

[jps4jeep]

Jesse, I do have flat top knuckle from a 75 chevy 1/2 ton.. I think I may have not described it clearly before, with a D30 (assumeing you still have it) you will use the stock knuckles but flip the TRE from under the ear to above the ear.. and with a SOA will give you a considerable amount of clearence.

Bounty Yes they make inserts to convert and other what nots.. I paid a local machine shop $5 to ream the pitman arm and the Hi-steer arms, and $16 for 4 tube ends drilled, reamed and tapped. so I am assuming that Joopin can also fine a shop to ream out his D30 knuckles for a similar price. (while in there, replace U-joints, unit bearings, upgrade shafts to TJ one piece etc...)

I prefered the beef of the 450 ends compared to the chevy, plus I only have to carry two spares instead of 3. and all the threads are the same (minus right hand left hand) so I only had to use two taps at one size.

Bounty, Do you have a close up of your Drivers side perch. I am SOAing my junk onto XJ leaves and RE 1.5 springs and would like to see who you made the perch.. did you just grind into the casting to flatten it out?

 

[jps4jeep]

This is the best pic I can find of my set up, I like the knuckles corrupt has, but for $50 for the pair at the yard.. I can deal with the lower ear, plus I have yet to hit them due to the close proximity of the tire

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Bounty, Do you have a close up of your Drivers side perch. I am SOAing my junk onto XJ leaves and RE 1.5 springs and would like to see who you made the perch.. did you just grind into the casting to flatten it out?

I don't think I have a good pic of that. I ground away some of the casting and used a Mopar spring perch ($12pr.). I just left the outside of the spring perch along and ground the inside down so it rested on the cast housing. I then used regular rod to weld to the axletube and 55% nickel rod to weld the inside of the spring perch to the cast housing.

For an alternative, Teraflex has a kit that raises the draglink for around 5 bills.
www.geocities.com/b1pig/zjtera.html

 

[jps4jeep]

I don't think I have a good pic of that. I ground away some of the casting and used a Mopar spring perch ($12pr.). I just left the outside of the spring perch along and ground the inside down so it rested on the cast housing. I then used regular rod to weld to the axletube and 55% nickel rod to weld the inside of the spring perch to the cast housing.

welding is not an issue, thats part of my 9-5...

these perches?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_34306_-1

 

[currupt4130]

Jesse, I do have flat top knuckle from a 75 chevy 1/2 ton.. I think I may have not described it clearly before, with a D30 (assumeing you still have it) you will use the stock knuckles but flip the TRE from under the ear to above the ear.. and with a SOA will give you a considerable amount of clearence.

The only problem here is that you're pushing your tie rod and drag link close to the springs. I know when I first sprung mine over (dana 30 still) that if my drag link was any closer to the springs, I wouldn't have been able to turn all the way to the right.

 

[jps4jeep]

The only problem here is that you're pushing your tie rod and drag link close to the springs. I know when I first sprung mine over (dana 30 still) that if my drag link was any closer to the springs, I wouldn't have been able to turn all the way to the right.

Learn something every day.. I did not know that. I know on 44's with out a spacer it can be an issue.. did not know for the 30.

Thinking out loud here, you in theory could use a larger TRE that would lift the drag link slightly higher?

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Those are the perches I used, and keeping the outboard side intact made sure the height was correct, only had to trim the diff side to sit on the cast.

 

[currupt4130]

Learn something every day.. I did not know that. I know on 44's with out a spacer it can be an issue.. did not know for the 30.

Thinking out loud here, you in theory could use a larger TRE that would lift the drag link slightly higher?

The best solution is being able to put at least the drag link over top the springs like the Teraflex knuckle does.

 

[Joopin]

well I just came from the shop where my jeep is at. I am having them put in new axle seals in the D30... and right now is the perfect time to put a high steer on!! Two of my tie rod ends are shot... one of them is the one that is attached to the bar, which is the expensive one I guess.

I was looking at the Rocky-Road knuckle over steering system that currupt linked to. It looks like the best deal since I have to buy new tie rod ends and every thing anyway.

http://www.rocky-road.com/yjott.html

It puts EVERYTHING above the spring pack which is cool, instead of just the drag link. I'm wondering though if you have to use the stock pitman arm though. And it doesn't say much about HOW the trac bar is raised... of course they arn't answering the phone either.

I still don't see many cheaper options for me, I dont' have the luxury of time right now either... or I would go find a D44 for the front like you guys! This kit is still cheaper than the K-link... and doesn't have the downside of the shackle reversal.

 

[currupt4130]

You're still running a front trackbar!? I thought that was one of the first things everyone ditched... BTW, you do need to switch back to a stock pitman arm. The drop pitman will throw everything out of whack. That kit puts it back to stock angles.

Edit: Just looked at their site, they have an optional panhard extension. Same thing as a track bar, just different name.