Jeep Front axle
- Thread starter Demodave
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Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Re: Jeep Frony axle
Welcome to the Z.
Best to tell us a little about your jeep like Model, year, current mods, etc. There's also a way to enter some of that info into your profile so it shows on top of every post you make. Help us help you.
Welcome to the Z.
Best to tell us a little about your jeep like Model, year, current mods, etc. There's also a way to enter some of that info into your profile so it shows on top of every post you make. Help us help you.
Rubiconrich
New member
Re: Jeep Frony axle
Get a Scout or Waggy Dana 44 front end and cut it down.
Get a Scout or Waggy Dana 44 front end and cut it down.
Still looking for front axle or front axle set to fit my 2000 TJ. Like to run 456 gears. Have a dana 30 in the front and a ford 8.8 in the rear with Toyo 37x14.5x15. Looking to improve on a new axle with the best possible pricew. Anyone with any information would be helpful or if you could point me in the right direction.
Thanks
Thanks
Rubiconrich
New member
Re: Jeep Frony axle
There are two differnt waggy front ends one with the pumpkin on the same side as a CJ and the other with the pumpkin on the YJ/TJ side. Once you have the right one there is no need to cut it down but you will have to swap out the ends to match your Jeep.
There are two differnt waggy front ends one with the pumpkin on the same side as a CJ and the other with the pumpkin on the YJ/TJ side. Once you have the right one there is no need to cut it down but you will have to swap out the ends to match your Jeep.
54cj3b
New member
Re: Jeep Frony axle
The best price is free of course :shades:
also depends what its out of and if its driver side or passenger side drop
and if its stock or not and whats in it gears lockers shafts
inner's outer's ect
see stock waggys and scouts going for anywhere from 250 to 450
and built from 500 up to about 1000 sometimes more
The best price is free of course :shades:
also depends what its out of and if its driver side or passenger side drop
and if its stock or not and whats in it gears lockers shafts
inner's outer's ect
see stock waggys and scouts going for anywhere from 250 to 450
and built from 500 up to about 1000 sometimes more
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
You don't have any options but the Rubicon d44 if you want to keep the same 5x4.5" lug pattern as the 8.8 rear axle. This option doesn't really gain you anything but a stronger ring and pinion. You still have a relatively weak housing and non-serviceable hubs, small brakes, etc.
If you want one of the strongest d44 setups, look for one from a 3/4t Ford around '79. The housing can easily be narrowed for Wagoneer shafts and you have a high pinion and the strongest housing available. I'm currently setting up 2 for my jeeps. Then you can set up the outers to run either 6x5.5" lug pattern like I chose or the common 5x5.5" similar to CJ's and Scouts. The rear 8.8 shafts can be redrilled to 5x5.5" lug pattern or buy some Superior axleshafts with the dual pattern.
A stock Wagoneer axle isn't too bad of an option but it is low pinion. I run one now but switching to the Ford axle for high pinion and stronger housing.
Regardless of which d44 route you go, you will have a LOT better axle with serviceable bearings, cheaper highsteer, larger brakes, etc.
Re: Jeep Frony axle
I want to thank everyone that helped me out. Have another question. I just found what may be a great deal on a dana 60 and Ford Sterling axles from a 99 Ford F-350 super duty. The dana 60 has a high pinion 373 both axles have disk on them. They are the metric 8-lug. What do you think of this combination? Is it worth spending the money on and getting narrowed? These axles have only 44000 miles on them and the rotors and pads are brand new.
I want to thank everyone that helped me out. Have another question. I just found what may be a great deal on a dana 60 and Ford Sterling axles from a 99 Ford F-350 super duty. The dana 60 has a high pinion 373 both axles have disk on them. They are the metric 8-lug. What do you think of this combination? Is it worth spending the money on and getting narrowed? These axles have only 44000 miles on them and the rotors and pads are brand new.
Re: Jeep Frony axle
Might want to double check, that axle Should be a D50 regardless, not bad axles, the bolt pattern is limiting, ball joints are not the best option with a larger axles and tires, the unit bearing on those axles are not that great either. Ball Joint aside, the pre 97 F350 axles would be a little better, 81-89 would be even better than those, they are king pin axles.
Might want to double check, that axle Should be a D50 regardless, not bad axles, the bolt pattern is limiting, ball joints are not the best option with a larger axles and tires, the unit bearing on those axles are not that great either. Ball Joint aside, the pre 97 F350 axles would be a little better, 81-89 would be even better than those, they are king pin axles.
Re: Jeep Frony axle
In 1999 The F350 DRW came with a D60, if the F350 is SRW then it is a D50. The 10.5 Sterling is equivalent to a D70 as far as strength and will have disc brakes, as you know.
The metric bolt pattern is not an issue at all as far as rim selection it has been out now for 11 years and every rim style is made in both 8 lug patterns.
Ball joints- At worst the solid axle D50 has an axle weight rating of 5000# which is more that an entire stock TJ weighs. I would think the BJ's are a non issue in an axle this heavy. But then again there are people out there who can break a solid steel ball in a padded wall cell while wearing a straight jacket. Unit bearings- I didn't like these when GM first started using them in the IFS, the Dodge went to them and lastly Ford. I will say after disecting them the Ford unit bearing is the beefiest of the three. I am also starting to get used to the idea of changing the whole assembly as opposed to r/r the serviceable bearings and races when either get worn. I do not like the vacuum Ford auto hubs, I changed mine out for Warm premium.
I am running a Sterling/D60 on my TJ, the rear is full width but the front I narrowed a little. Both have Detroit lockers in them, 4.88 gears on 38.5" tires. I used H2 rims to bring the tires in a little. My TJ weighs over 5000# and they are working out great. I really like the huge brakes considering the vehicle weight and large tires.
Narrowing the Sterling- The axles are not the same length from left to right, so easiest would be to narrow the left a little so the axles are the same length, this would put the pinion in the middle of the housing as it is offset a little to the right.
In 1999 The F350 DRW came with a D60, if the F350 is SRW then it is a D50. The 10.5 Sterling is equivalent to a D70 as far as strength and will have disc brakes, as you know.
The metric bolt pattern is not an issue at all as far as rim selection it has been out now for 11 years and every rim style is made in both 8 lug patterns.
Ball joints- At worst the solid axle D50 has an axle weight rating of 5000# which is more that an entire stock TJ weighs. I would think the BJ's are a non issue in an axle this heavy. But then again there are people out there who can break a solid steel ball in a padded wall cell while wearing a straight jacket. Unit bearings- I didn't like these when GM first started using them in the IFS, the Dodge went to them and lastly Ford. I will say after disecting them the Ford unit bearing is the beefiest of the three. I am also starting to get used to the idea of changing the whole assembly as opposed to r/r the serviceable bearings and races when either get worn. I do not like the vacuum Ford auto hubs, I changed mine out for Warm premium.
I am running a Sterling/D60 on my TJ, the rear is full width but the front I narrowed a little. Both have Detroit lockers in them, 4.88 gears on 38.5" tires. I used H2 rims to bring the tires in a little. My TJ weighs over 5000# and they are working out great. I really like the huge brakes considering the vehicle weight and large tires.
Narrowing the Sterling- The axles are not the same length from left to right, so easiest would be to narrow the left a little so the axles are the same length, this would put the pinion in the middle of the housing as it is offset a little to the right.
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