Help! Rear tow hooks on a YJ?

hi_c

New member
I have a YJ and want to put some rear tow hooks on it. Problem is... I also have a receiver hitch. The hitch is in the way of mounting tow hoods directly to the frame cause I have to be able to put nuts on the screws inside the frame... which means that the hooks have to mounted, pretty close to the end of the frame. I know some off-road orgs say that a receiver hitch is sufficient for a tow point (class 3 hitch) but I'd rather not use that since it's only rated for 3,500 lbs. and the force of a "yank" while stuck is probably more than that.

So where did you mount yours... do you have any pics?

C
 

I don't know for sure but I think you would be fine with a "Snatch Strap" Much more effecient than a "Recovery strap" and 15' snatch pattern.

That is on your Reciever.

:::Edit:::
Greawulf should be able to help you with all the numbers.
 
A snatch strap is Elastic. It stretches to create more pulling power without the sudden :: POP :: of a regular strap. That way you don't break anything.
 

Elastic and thousands of pounds doesn't sound like a good mix... is this a regular practice?

c
 
Snatch Recovery
What is a Snatch Recovery?

A Snatch recovery is where a bogged vehicle is recovered by using a mobile vehicle to pull the stuck vehicle free.

A Snatch recovery differs from a normal tow recovery because the line connecting the two vehicles is not tensioned prior to the recovery as in a tow recovery.

A Snatch recovery relies on the elastic properties of the strap to work properly. During a normal snatch recovery, the strap will elongate by around one metre.

A Snatch Strap is a nylon-webbing strap approximately 9m in length and 75mm wide with eyelets at both ends. It has a typical breaking strain in the order of 9,000kg for a standard snatch strap. It pays to look after your snatch strap as a nick of only 1cm can reduce its breaking strain by over 50%.

The snatch recovery technique requires a second mobile vehicle and a snatch strap to perform the "snatch".

The mobile vehicle is positioned to allow around 2m of slack in the snatch strap, while avoiding getting bogged as well. The direction of both vehicles should be lined up as straight as possible and the strap should not be twisted.

Hook the strap to a suitable vehicle tow point using shackles rated to at least 3.25 tons.CAUTION - Never place a Snatch strap over a towball.



NEVER put the strap over a towball as it is not rated high enough and can break with fatal results (people have actually died this way).

If a towbar is the only rear point available, then remove the towball and use a rated shackle (minimum 3.25 tonne).

Some light duty towbars are unsuitable for snatch recoveries as they are not designed for the high shock loadings that a snatch recovery places on them.


For safety, you should never walk over a snatch strap once it is connected at both ends.

It is advisable to place a blanket, or similar, over the middle of the snatch strap. This will act as a 'parachute' if the strap or mounting points were to break.

Once the vehicles are connected and all bystanders are well out of the way (a minimum of the strap length in ALL directions), the bogged driver should signal (by hand, flashing his lights, CB etc) when he is ready.

The mobile vehicle should drive off at a steady pace (lst or 2nd low range recommended). The driver of the bogged vehicle should have the engine idling in either reverse or 1st low range (depending on the direction of tow) and as soon as the jerk from the snatch is felt, release the clutch and, hopefully, drive out.

Be careful not to run over the snatch strap as you drive off. Stop as soon as you are clear of the boggy area and remove the strap.

If this fails to extricate the bogged vehicle, repeat the process but use more speed when taking off in the mobile vehicle. Alternatively, increase the amount of slack in the snatch strap to 3m.

If the mobile vehicle cannot be placed close enough without risking bogging it as well, two snatch straps con be joined together. Place the eye of one strap through the eye of the other. Then pull the rest of the strap through its own eye. It is advisable to place a rolled up newspaper (or similar) in the loop before it is pulled too tight as this will aid undoing the two straps later.

NEVER join the straps using a shackle as this can turn into a "bullet" if either strap where to break.

Provided by www.offroaders.com.
 

No problem. Just trying to get you by with what you have, by re-assuring you that the rear reciever is enough.

Usually, you will not be connected at the rear. Unless you are the one doing the pulling.
 
your hitch is more than adequate to recover with.. i shatched a deuce with mine and it held.... hell, my hubs let loose before the hitch did! your hitch may be "rated" at 3500lbs, but can take well over 10,000lbs of force when recovering.... just dont try to tow something that heavy..... i've heard of people shearing the bolts onthe hitch, but that is extremely rare, and a jeep doesn't weigh all that much...
 
I mounted my rear hook on the outside of the driver's side frame rail, just in front of the shackle. Angle the hook down so the strap stays on and the hook is parallel to the frame. Two grade 8 bolts all the way through the other side of the frame, just don't drill into the fuel tank :shock:
 
Here ya go :D
DSCN3061JPG-3.jpg
 
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