Getting heated over heat issues

K

Kiltedindyyj

New member
Hello all I need your help. Just replace waterpump, t-stat, hoses, etc. now temp gauge fluctuates from about 155 and 210. No heat but blower is working. Both heater hoses are hot/warm. I have a '95 yj with 133k miles, also replaced mechanical fan with electric from ford Taurus it have it setup not to cut on unless I switch it on. Any ideas would be helpful and greatly appreciated.
Thx steven
 

are your heater hoses hooked up backwards?

its funny, you have the last year yj and can't get heat but your blower works and i have hte first year yj and i have heat but no blower
 
fluctuating 155-210.. you should be running a consistant 210. EFI motors are not like carbed motors where the colder you run them, better that run. EFi motors need to run a certain temp. Now I do not think this is the issue though.

couple ideas;
probably clogged heater core
the cable that opens the heat duct is not opeating correctly
the T-stat is bad (I've installed new ones before that were junk right away)
 
I checked the heater hoses they are both hot. I am getting a little heat now but not what it was before. And the temp gauge still bouncing from 155 to 210. Checked rod on heater box it's ok working correctly. Is it better to replace the heater core or try and flush it out? too many projects not enough daylight. ��
 

jps4jeep said:
fluctuating 155-210.. you should be running a consistant 210. EFI motors are not like carbed motors where the colder you run them, better that run. EFi motors need to run a certain temp. Now I do not think this is the issue though.

couple ideas;
probably clogged heater core
the cable that opens the heat duct is not opeating correctly
the T-stat is bad (I've installed new ones before that were junk right away)
Click to expand...


I also replaced the mechanical fanwith an electric but I don't use it wired so I can turn it off if I want.
 
and you put the heater on full blast when you were filling the radiator?


park it on an incline so the nose is up and pop the radiator cap and bleed it really well. these straight 6 engines are always kind of a hassle to bleed. i had a number of bmws with their straight 6 and it was the same issue, bleed them a certain way or they get hot on you.
 
superj said:
and you put the heater on full blast when you were filling the radiator?


park it on an incline so the nose is up and pop the radiator cap and bleed it really well. these straight 6 engines are always kind of a hassle to bleed. i had a number of bmws with their straight 6 and it was the same issue, bleed them a certain way or they get hot on you.
Click to expand...

I did put iron incline nose down but didn't have heat on full blast. Pretty sure all the air is out. Pretty sure. Not overheating but thermo keeps swinging back and forth. I have a four banger but it is plumbed like a 6 according to the Haynes manual.
 

hmm, no idea then man. keep bleeding it for a couple of days would be my solution.
 
You need the front of the jeep up when burping out the air. When cold open the radiator with the jeep pointed up an incline or jack up the front as much as possible. Let it cycle. There should be a stream of bubbles for a full 2 to 5 min. Keep adding fluid and cap it prior to shutting off the engine. Be sure the overflow is filled correctly and the overflow tube is not leaking.

If this is not is check your blend doors.

Replica the Thermo with a 195 deg ( I use STANT)

Flush out the Heater block by disconnecting the hoses from the engine. Using a garden hose flush the heater core in both directions. Be sure the hose is on high for max pressure and do this until the water runs clean. Re attach. Refill and burp.

Post back
 
To clear a heater core, in the past I would disconnect the hoses and blow compressed air into the return hose, usually 2 things happen; 1. mineral deposites would come out the supply hose or 2. blow a huge hole in the heater core. unfortunately thats how it is, unless you can get to the heater core and see that there is not a huge amount of corrosion, there will always be a risk of destroying the core. also limit the compressed air to about 20-30 psi.
 

I will try jacking it up tomorrow while I'm cookin dinner. Thanks for all the help. Hope everyone has an awesome turkey day.
Steven
 
Ok finally got time to change heater core. It was three times the weight of the new one. Heat works almost as good as original but pretty good heat better than no heat. Thank you to everyone who helped with ideas. Now to fix some body rot/rust and get my rock sliders on and prepare for z suspension lift.
 
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