FRAK I have CANCER

[Weylyn]

I was toodling around today (in the snow, recovering from Pneumonia) and when I got home, paint was cracked and flaking. on further inspection, I broke off some of the paint. This is what I found

Anyway, winter work I guess. Scares me to think how far I will have to go to fix. Any suggestions on primers. Not wanting to restore at this time as then I have to pull the body and that, I don't have the shop space for at the moment. OK and the Bug is still naked

 

[54cj3b]

use some moratic acid to nutralize the rust soak it good till stops fizzling then rinse with clean water dry sand area good apply a small thin coat of body putty if needed and sand smooth than spray a nice coat of zink primmer on it then spray with red oxide primer prep and paint

 

[glenn beck]

i was always told the primer before the putty as the primer protects the metal and the putty sticks better

 

[Weylyn]

hey thx John, I was just looking at a grinder but your method sounds better. Will pick up the supplies when in town tomorrow. Gives me a excuse to spend money.

 

[54cj3b]

if you prime first whats to bond the putty to the metal? anything I do body repair I always grind all the paint and make a clean scourd surface for the putty to adher, if you prime/paint under putty the will paint will flake in extrem hot or cold conditions causing putty to crack and causing the finished paint to crack also and then fall off over time

 

[Weylyn]

if you prime first whats to bond the putty to the metal? anything I do body repair I always grind all the paint and make a clean scourd surface for the putty to adher, if you prime/paint under putty the will paint will flake in extrem hot or cold conditions causing putty to crack and causing the finished paint to crack also and then fall off over time

Thx for explaining it to him, I am a amatuer when it comes to body work. Never been crazy about bondo, but boddy filler to fix minor imperfections is always good. I always knew metal needed to be bare but thought about grinding smooth. Your thought on the rust remover gave me great ideas. As I peeled off some of the cracked paint, as seen in pics, you see how thick the paint is? Was this normal. Seems this way throughout the body where I have poked around. So far no areas that will need to be cut

 

[mcmud]

What you are seeing is the result of a prior attempt to fix. Very similar if not identical to what you or the next owner will see if you use the procedure outlined above.

The thick paint you mention is actually bondo over rust. It was likely sanded or treated to what appeared to be clean metal prior to the application of the filler and then primed and painted over. IMO muratic acid will not neutralize rust. It will remove scale but is a caustic solution and will eat metal. Sanding will never remove all of the scale but will actually leave fine particles of it. Too spawn more rust.

What I would suggest that you do is use the POR15 products, Marine Clean, Metal Ready, POR Coating and enough Straight Line filler to apply a thin layer over the coating. The filler is expensive but a thin coat will allow subsequent coating of any of the premium but less costly over the counter fillers. Straight Line filler will stick to the coating if it is applied within the finger drag time. This time line is depending on relative humidity, from 30 minutes with high humidity to three hours during low humidity. If you are unable to fill the area within that time window you could follow up after a sanding of the coating.

This method would place the protective coat under the filler and against the problem area...where it should be.

Follow the directions on the product to the letter and you will have completed the repair rather than postpone its reappearance.

 

[Weylyn]

ok looked up the por-15. Its a 3 step process. But who sells it. Do you have a link for the retailer?

Also jeep has been in family since 73 when my dad bought it. My brother bought it from Dad and I bought it from him. Never had body work nor rust. Stayed in AZ until about 3 years ago and while it has been sand blasted by dust storms, never driven in snow or ice. Mainly been a ranch ride for moving hay and grain for horses and cattle

 

[mcmud]

I do believe that is body filler, evidenced by the way it is being pushed off the under lying rust. The OEM primer and the paint would exfoliate in tiny bits. Plastic filler remains rigid enough to do just exactly as see in the photo.

If you can peal it off in a piece larger that a nat it's filler.

Any paint store or hardware store which sells Pleucid coatings will have access to it and many auto paint store have it too. Or order from the net.

I have no affiliation with them whatsoever however I do know that the product works...if you follow the directions.

 

[TerryMason]

Weylyn,

Order por 15 straight from the manufacturer - POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks

I've used it lots of times and it's simply great. Wear gloves though - if you get it on your skin it won't come off.