Eldebrock fuel return
- Thread starter sweetpeet
- Start date
PoliceMonkey161
New member
Alright, so check this out. I had to do a quick sketch of the schematic. It's fairly easily to do, just make sure you disconnect the battery prior to starting.
As we talked about, install the oil psi switch using a threaded tee (no tapping is required). Find your starter relay (normally on the inner passenger side fender well). Run a wire from the positive side of the relay coil to the positive side of the 12V mini relay coil usually marked with an "A" (you supply, see photo). Run a wire from the "B" side of the mini coil to ground. Run a jumper from the + side of the relay to the C (common) pole of the relay. Next run a wire from the N/O (normally open) side of the relay to the N/C (normally closed) side of the psi switch. Then splice into the positive side of the coil or 12V supply (if HEI) and run to the N/O side of the psi switch. The C side of the switch runs to the pump, be sure to include a fuse in that line (whatever the pump manufacture calls for, normally between 10-12 AMPS).Now while the starter is cranking, you'll have power to the pump and once oil pressure builds up (almost instantly) you'll have power in the "run"position of your ignition. Think of it as added safety for the engine, if no oil pressure registers the engine will not run.
If you look at the wiring diagram included with the psi switch, it will not show a mini relay. You will need this with the"electro-magnetic" or solid state wiring of your Jeep due tofeedback.
Easy....No problems! I can PM you my cell number if you need help.
View attachment Oil PSI.pdf
As we talked about, install the oil psi switch using a threaded tee (no tapping is required). Find your starter relay (normally on the inner passenger side fender well). Run a wire from the positive side of the relay coil to the positive side of the 12V mini relay coil usually marked with an "A" (you supply, see photo). Run a wire from the "B" side of the mini coil to ground. Run a jumper from the + side of the relay to the C (common) pole of the relay. Next run a wire from the N/O (normally open) side of the relay to the N/C (normally closed) side of the psi switch. Then splice into the positive side of the coil or 12V supply (if HEI) and run to the N/O side of the psi switch. The C side of the switch runs to the pump, be sure to include a fuse in that line (whatever the pump manufacture calls for, normally between 10-12 AMPS).Now while the starter is cranking, you'll have power to the pump and once oil pressure builds up (almost instantly) you'll have power in the "run"position of your ignition. Think of it as added safety for the engine, if no oil pressure registers the engine will not run.
If you look at the wiring diagram included with the psi switch, it will not show a mini relay. You will need this with the"electro-magnetic" or solid state wiring of your Jeep due tofeedback.
Easy....No problems! I can PM you my cell number if you need help.
View attachment Oil PSI.pdf
PoliceMonkey161
New member
For some reason, the schematic is not loading.......... Let's try this-
PoliceMonkey161
New member
This will not likely solve all your problems, but it will give you a steady, consistant fuel flow. In addition to the added safety of just having a properly wired fuel system, if you run a return line you will likely see an increase in economy and less chance of vapor locking in the summer heat.
My guess would be that you have an over arching problem with some minor tuning of your carb. I would start by checking the float level and for proper choke operation. Next I would look at my mixture setting (I'm not well educated with Eldebrock, but the principles are the same). I would also verify at my ignition system is working properly and that I'm getting the proper spark advance throughout the RPM range.
Best of Luck....... Keep us posted.
My guess would be that you have an over arching problem with some minor tuning of your carb. I would start by checking the float level and for proper choke operation. Next I would look at my mixture setting (I'm not well educated with Eldebrock, but the principles are the same). I would also verify at my ignition system is working properly and that I'm getting the proper spark advance throughout the RPM range.
Best of Luck....... Keep us posted.
69jeepcj
New member
carbs are not off road friendly, the float bowl level is always changing while off road and your carb is trying to keep the same level as it is while on the street and cant, and flooding and bogging is the result. You can try lowering your level and that may help some, but unless you have a Q-jet carb or one of the off road carbs you will probably continue to fight this issue. ford motor craft is another decent carb off road. I too deal with this. It takes a lot of work to get a street carb to behave off road. inclines and bouncy terrain show it the most.
69jeepcj
New member
I hear they are very good. I want one myself, I heard eldys offroad carb is pretty good too. So it is flooding and bogging on street inclines, not offroading? geeeeez!!!... yeah that shouldnt be going on. im at a loss right now. question for those reading, what shuts off the fuel flow from continuing to dump fuel into the carb after the float levels are reached. Almost sounds like there is no restriction of fuel being dumped into the carb at all.
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