ECM Removal???

dennisonwj

New member
I have a 1988 Wrangler Laredo with the 4.2L and an AX-15 manual transmission. It has the original distributor, factory air conditioning (I KNOW, I did not order it), etc. It also has a Weber 34 DGEC carburator, the Carter is GONE.

I would like to remove the damned ECM and make this Jeep what it should ALWAYS be, mechanical. I was reading that a Nutter Bypass will help me achieve this goal. I live in the National Fascist State of Maryland, but the verhicle is Historically registered and emissions is NOT HAPPENING.

Now the questions fellow Jeepsters.

1) If I do a Nutter Bypass with the above setup, can I REMOVE the ECM and all the wires that are attached to it. Or does it do other things that would require it to be still installed? The Weber does have an electric choke, but I think the ECM is out of that equation. I ask this because it is a nightmare under my dash and it will take real commitment to take apart the dash to unmount it and remove it.

2) After a Nutter, what vacuum tubes DO I NEED TO KEEP, I want to remove and plug all unneeded vacuum hoses, it is a mess in there.

3) After Nutter, I want to also remove the CTO and plug the hole in the block. Has anyone done this, and what do you use for the plug?
 

I live in MD too.... But as retired LE, I disagree with part of your statement :)! If you already have the Weber and historic tags, you can do away with all that stuff. If you upgrade to a HEI ignition, we can clean up your engine bay all together.

What part of MD are you in?

John
 
Used to live in Ellicott City. That is when I first started using the term "National Fascist State of Maryland". LOL I was referring to the "sterile" landscape known as Howard County. More specifically Columbia, we non-howard country folks refer to the helpless Columbia-ites as an available food source when the sh%% hits the fan. :) Just kidding, kinda.

BTW, what does "LE" stand for?

Anyway, to the Jeep. I was researching the HEI ignition and it seems to do the same thing as nuttering the vehicle, but at an 80$-!00$ cost. I really do not have the time to go dig through a junkyard for old GM parts, plus it feels wrong putting them in a Jeep, me being a Chrysler fellow and all. I am of course open to suggestions, can you point me to an article that outlines the HEI installation process?
 
You can remove the ecm. The only thing that it does is adjust the old carter.
As far as vacuum lines. The only one you need is the one to the distributor.
And as far as keeping your jeep all jeep. The original distributor was designed by ford. As a matter of fact, The whole engine was designed by ford and bought by jeep. About the only thing that is truely jeep is the tub and frame. Ammost everything else was either designed or built by another company.
 

I am sold on the HEI after your comments and research, thanks for all the inputs. Here are some questions.
1) Many say DUI, but CRT has seemingly the same performance parts for 100$ cheaper. Opinions please?
2) I know the plug wires need to be swapped for HEI wires.
3) Can I run the stock plugs, or do I need something else?
4) What vacuum hoses and electrical wires can I remove after it is installed?
 
I am sold on the HEI after your comments and research, thanks for all the inputs. Here are some questions.
1) Many say DUI, but CRT has seemingly the same performance parts for 100$ cheaper. Opinions please?
2) I know the plug wires need to be swapped for HEI wires.
3) Can I run the stock plugs, or do I need something else?
4) What vacuum hoses and electrical wires can I remove after it is installed?

I'm not certain as to the differences between the CRT and a DUI? What I can say is that over the years I've had the CRT "juice box" conversation which came with the 86' that I'm currently and it worked just fine prior to rebuilding the engine. I've upgraded to the DUI with my new motor, it appears to be hand built and was sent with a handwritten spec sheet specific to that unit. But I have not started it up yet, so who knows? On the other end of the spectrum, a few years back I bought I $60 HEI unit from Skip White Auto on EBay and it worked great. Regardless of who's you buy there is always a chance that the new distributor drive gear will eat up the cam drive gear on the existing cam shaft. The exception is the juice box kit because you'll reuse the lower end of your existing distributor.

You can use stock plugs but you should at least put fresh ones in and re-gap them between .040-.050. Your existing stock wires will not work. HEI require female ends on both the distributor and plug side, you'll also need a wire greater than 8mm I believe for the increased current.

The only vacuum line you'll have to keep as Steady.foot pointed out is the distributors advance line unless you have P/S.

BTW...... LE is short for "law enforcement".
 
Firstly, I would like to note that you may not agree with the Fascist Maryland comment. Here is an example. The Governor O'Malley using a rain tax to recover the coffers that he fleeced for personal, political, and useless projects from the Chesapeake Bay foundation. And that was a political and unpopular suggestion from the POTUS who wanted to make O'Malley a running mate in a future corrupt election. """Even Benito Mussolini kept the trains running""". Fascism at it's strongest.

Now to Real American ideals.

After research, I am with you on the HEI. Several members have mentioned that the CRT HEI distributors (Jeep HEI's) are at least comparable to the DUI line (http://performancedistributors.com/p...i-distributor/). Thy are both HEI, but the CRT is MUCH less expensive. DUI vs. CRT?
 

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Just interested in the conversation between the retired LEO and the guy who didn't know what LE stood for....:D
 
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