Duraspark for the FI install

[8177]

No offence taken on the jokes. They are funny! I don't complain on funny. I have had a few bad experiences with distributor installs. I have learned to compare old part locations with new ones. Even if I got the oil pump lost wrong I could still have the body in the wrong place and it would not line up right. Need to wait on the cap adapter to make sure.
General hospital is over so now we can go have Chinese buffet!!! yeee haw

 

[greg92jeepxj]

I had to correct someone's failure to mark rotor to body and body to manifold ( in your case block) and it took a while . And several battery charges. I know the feeling . But you WILL get it !
Fried lice ! Fillet of dragon ! Yee haw ! ( jokes from Lethal Weapon & The Munsters , don't want the governor to try to take credit ).

 

[8177]

Wire dilemma number one. Ok from the stock ignition module the plug has a red wire with a white stripe. This has been cut and spliced with two wires. A red factory wire running to the bulkhead connector and going into the cockpit. the other wire spliced on there goes to the positive side of the coil I believe that the factory red wire to the bulkhead connector goes to the key switch. This is where the Ford red wire goes. does the positive side of the coil also go here. It is almost how the Jeep is wired now.

Now on the starter solenoid there is a light blue wire that goes up the same harness and inside the cockpit. I believe this is not the way the factory wiring went. Through the bulkhead yes but not directly to the solenoid.

So what I have left on the Ford wiring side is the positive coil, the red to the key switch and the wire to the solenoid. Any guesses.

 

[8177]

My guess would be the coil + and the jeep red wire to the bulkhead connector go to my ford ignition module red wire. The blue stock wiring to the starter relay stays where it is. So I have one wire, the white one that is supposed to get to the starter switch; In the diagram its the two wire plug. Would I take the blue stock wire to the starter solenoid, cut it and splice it so two wires come from it. one to the white ford wire and the blue jeep starter solenoid wire. Or is there another wire in the stock wiring from the key I can wire to the white wire.
Sorry for all the edits.
on my stock wiring harness I have a yellow wire from The BHC (bulk head connector) that is cut. I have a black with white stripe wire that goes to nothing.
One other wire that does not look right is a brown wire that is going to the two prong connector on the alternator, yellow wire.

 

[8177]

Any way I might be able to get Teamrush's input on this.

 

[8177]

Just guessing on this. I have a 3 lug starter solenoid. Two big ones for the battery/ starter wires and one small one for the wire from the ignition switch If I replace it with a 4 lug, I think I have a place to connect the wire from the ford module.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Jim , see if this diagram matches as far as color codes with the existing wiring on your jeep . I must continue this as soon as I can . If the color wires match and It seems that your jeeps wiring harness has the has the same connections , let me know if this works . You said your starter relay is only three lug which throws it off a bit , but I want to figure out if you need a four lug or will ignition wires meant for charging ignition coil during cranking will go through the dura spark module and not through the starter relay. We must find out exactly what wires the module has and where every one is supposed to go so we know which starter relay you need , three or four lug. I believe this is where we should start , from the module. I believe that is the key. The module will determine what is wired to the ignition switch , starter relay and so forth . Of course we want to be sure the module is correct for your jeep , but personally they all look alike on diagrams . But yes , we want to be sure. Hoping to be back Saturday afternoon to post , hoping that this diagram will help and bring good news for you . Will be back to hitting the books (diagrams ) then . My 1980 CJ diagrams will have to be read with a fine tooth comb but I would like to know if any wires match , any not on jeep but on diagram , any on jeep but not on diagram , trying to determine what's different and what's the same. Hope this works. This has me very curious. Will be back afternoon New York time. Post all you would like , helps me to search better in terms of colors and connections . Most interesting to me is the colors on ignition module but ignition coil and starter relay as well . Also distributor and extension harness from distributor to module.

 

[8177]

That's closer than the one I posted. The only thing different is the color wire going to the coil off the 4 wire plug and that is probably because I have the ford harness. Mine does not show the wire to the electric choke. Very close indeed. I have to run in to town to pick up the distributer adapter. I'll get a solenoid for the 81 year model.
I compared ignition modules from 77 (which is installed) to the 81 module. If the 81 was installed the wiring would be there. Could not find one for the 4 cyl that was originally installed to see what it may have had.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Was able to take a break for a moment , may be the last break I get before completion today , helping a friend move some items . Found this diagram and hoping it will also serve better . I cannot see if it differentiates 4cyl. from 6cyl. but I am hoping it will further match your existing wiring and hoping as well that all diagrams in your possession to date will help the project in so far as find the difference between what is currently on the jeep as opposed to what is actually needed for correct operation for the 258. Hope this helps Jim , sorry there is so much confusion . Greg

 

[8177]

Thanks Greg, everything you sent my way has been a huge help. I think I have it licked now. Just need the new 4 post solenoid. Every schematic I have seen proves I need one.
I had a New solenoid I used on a ford truck rehab a while back. I accepted the wrong part. NAPA was closed so I didn't take it back then and went to AutoZone to get the truck started. I was hoping it would work but it was only a 3 post. Just for grins I took it to NAPA today to see if they would take it back. They did and did a swap for a new 4 post. They had to order it and it will be here Monday. Year on the receipt..... March 2000.
Man I hate moving. Id rather be sorting through this mess on the jeep.

 

[8177]

Is there ballast resistor behind the dash. I se references to it and there is not one in the engine bay

 

[8177]

Greg I believe I just about have this thing whipped. that diagram you supplied slowly sunk in. Nee to fix the butcher job the engine swappers did and come Monday I'll have my 4 post solenoid and all I need is my exhaust manifold and the FI kit.

 

[8177]

Got the wiring straightened out a bit Greg. They had the big gage wire supplying juice to the back up lights and the small wire going to the ignition system. That's crazy!!! Got all the connections ready for the 4 post solenoid. Wont be able to test it till after the FI is installed. Wish I could have done the ignition mod first and then the FI but I was already too deep into it before I knew what I needed to do. I'll post more when I get the kit. Hope it gets here in time. Maybe if I delay the surgery by a week I can finish it. The date isn't set yet because the insurance is dragging its feet on the approval.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Bless me father for I have sinned , its been a day and a half since my last post . If someone tells you all they got to move is a refrigerator , bedroom set and a futon , don't believe them.
Well , finally caught up and going to bed , back to work at 7:15am New York time , why me.
been thinking about how it must be to try to sort out butchered wiring that someone did just to make assorted parts to get the jeep running and satisfy CARB with odd year parts and still pass inspection , and you still have to get it to pass smog and visual inspection and make it run to satisfaction. Been thinking does the jeep have the correct dura spark module , I don't know for sure but I think there is a module for 4cyl. , 6cyl. & 8cyl. separately , but regardless , they all still have to be wired up so that the ignition feeds voltage to the dura spark module for ignition for spark during cranking and voltage for spark after engine starts and that is all done from the ignition module through the starter relay connections "I" & "S" for ignition coil voltage during crank and run . Whether it is done jeep fashion or Ford fashion ( I don't see why they can't agree ) , its got to work that way . It's just a shame someone thought they had to dice up the engine wiring harness to accomplish this with mis match parts . I've seen it posted here on your threads that AMC was not consistent with color codes year to year ( I can personally vouch for that with other parts as well , but that is a whole thread in itself) but that must have caused someone to think more of the colors than where the wires actually terminate from one end to the other.
What our biggest concern is that proper gauge wires are connected from where they should start to where they should end , but of course we would like them to be the right color for future diagnostics. I realize that's all you've been trying to do,from day one , just sorry it's been more fun than one man deserves . Then of course I'm still hoping under the dash on that side of the bulkhead connector that all is right too . I think you said that had its own set of problem ?
I believe you have repeatedly stated that . All we've been asking for is the correct wiring diagram for your jeep , correct me if I'm wrong but I should be referring to a 4cyl. diagram ? For some reason , that was on my mind that your jeep began life as a 4cyl. as so many have as base models . You recently stated that in a recent post and that will help as I hope to sot out better proper terminal locations as well as correct color codes ( I hope too ) and what is actually wired in to the harness on both sides of the bulkhead connector. That , I guess will make a difference between a 4cyl. & 6cyl. I would think ? I will try not to think about AMC and their blessed yearly rituals to confuse jeep owners and restorers with inconsistencies on wiring and parts selection.
I guess as long as we got the right module , its all standard regardless of what color wire goes from point A to point B and any splice in between , we just need to know what goes where . As long as we got the right diagram to work from ( I've been trusting Willys overland ) , we should be ok ? I think as long as START & RUN is properly wired from ignition switch to engine harness and all after for engine to start and run , voltage for everything after that can be figured with less worrying as it is just power wires but from the proper location . Some folks say its just easier to get a good salvage harness engine and chassis and start fresh but that has its own set of headaches . Painless would be thought to be our God send , but all I've read from posts on other members restoring a CJ is new harness is to be spliced to existing harness . Gee wiz , I always thought they would supply a harness from the bulkhead to termination points on both sides of the firewall . Never installed one , always worked with factory harness and wiring diagrams .
Mitchell has it all , but subscription only and per vehicle . We're at the mercy of the dealer and the parts store. Jim , I pray we helped you get it , the way you want it . I know your the type of restorer who only wants things right , not just good enough . I hear that . I'm no different .
PICS only makeshift if has to be , but still unacceptable in my book. Right is right. That is what
I've always strived for too. I just hope it's finally the way it should be , I know you don't mind working hard at it , but I know you just want the right set of direction to . Sure hope we got it now. Hard for me to say "WE" , you did all the work , I just posted. Don't want the credit , others helped and we all just would like to know that everything works from a spark,plug to a dash light and everything between . Wishing best of luck for the procedure as well as the CJ project .
Always best wishes , Greg

 

[greg92jeepxj]

" you are forgiven my son , seven our fathers , three hail Mary's and the act of contrition .
Kiss the ring " .

 

[8177]

Yep the dura spark is all new, correct for what I need and installed. Too bad I don't get to check it out for being wired correctly. It seems I all ways wind up with 2 or 3 new systems to op check at the same time'

Yep the fuse panel was a birds nest of add ins to get power to who knows what. I was able to take it all out. I think those guys had more beer than sense.

I think I have it all sorted out in the engine bay with the diagrams you posted. Even though I could see it on paper it was just all so goofy under there that I couldn't tell what I was looking at. I had to pull the bulkhead connector off, verify color to the location and trace the wire. Home made splices in the middle of a wire going to some place and the wire that was needed was tucked in the harness. Unfortunately when I spent that one morning cleaning up the harness I cut some of those out. Good thing I'm a packrat and kept all the wire I removed. I'm not even going to check the lighting side of it yet. everything seems to work so its good enough for now. Well except they used to tow it and the blinkers send Morse code when to turn one on.
Not sure of a surgery date yet but it wont be this week. I thought he operated on Thursdays but its Monday and Tuesday. SO I'm guessing...hoping next week .

 

[greg92jeepxj]

I'm so glad you've got a handle on the wiring that the jeeps wiring harness is getting closer to how it was wired factory , I know that's the way you want it and that's how it should be to work correctly and be reliable . Once the jeep,is running reliably , you can venture to cab wiring and exterior lighting . All in good time . Most important is the procedure . That is the first concern.

 

[8177]

Well I have to write an appeal letter to the Insurance company now so there is now going to be a delay in the procedure. Its ok I have time for the install now but I sure want to get it over with.

If I left the wiring the way it was if I ever needed to do something I would go right through this stuff again. Don't wish that on my most evilest arch nemissis.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

I completely understand not wanting to just "leave it " as that would never sit well with me either and I don't think it would with too many people too. You know it's got to be right not only for reliability , but so there are no electrical issues with the new electronic fuel injection system to be installed . You will certainly want to know that when the kit asks you to tap into a 12v supply to feed the module for the injectors and not to mention an electric fuel pump to be installed as well .
These will tax the electrical system for volts and if an upgrade is to be done for the alternator if required you will want to know that the wiring harness is in the best shape and correct in the event any modifications must be made for a bigger alternator. That's not a huge deal but with poor wiring it will be. But I don't want to jump ahead so quickly since I have not been through the PDF I saved ( hope I got the right one) and don't know yet what mod's will entail.
It is imperative that basic engine harness be correct and working well as you know .
We also know that the success of the upgrade to the fuel system depends on it .
Im glad your a pack rat like myself who refuses to part with valuable parts and various miscellaneous items from vehicles that may be needed at a later date and be difficult or next to impossible to obtain thane. I have different reasons for keeping things , I'm sure you do to.
but rule of thumb as you know from previous resto's and repairs is NEVER throw away ANYTHING until the job is finished and WORKING. Especially original wire for the fact that it is correct gauge , color code and tracer , and correct terminals . I hope that all traces of original wires from bulkhead connector on both sides of firewall can be found or at least terminals available to install for your needs . No one usually removes them , only cuts , which I hate too. That will be a great help to finding original match diagram to restore wiring. Just knowing diagram matches bulkhead connectors makes identifying correct routing of wires and making certain they do in fact still exist after someone's handiwork . I get hung up on these things because I like things right.
Going for fish out what 4cylinder diagrams I have and compare with six and eight just to see any differences. Hope the parts are in your possession soonest for the completion of your project.

 

[8177]

No parts today but its just as well. Knocked a piece of steel angle iron, Something I keep for just in case, and it whacked my foot through my Tennis shoe pretty hard. Think I broke a toe. Didn't sleep t all last night it hurt so bad. And could not take any time off of work. Running on too much coffee now. Headed to bed though.