drive shaft angles? what should they be? help!!

[AKASHAJEEP]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: drive shaft angles? what should they be?

so do you think by the measurements that a 4* shim would get them lined back up?

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: drive shaft angles? what should they be?

I don't know precisely where you measured from. Are you certain that you were able to determine the tailshaft angle and the pinion angle?

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

Re: RE: Re: RE: 2006 FJ - It

I don't know precisely where you measured from. Are you certain that you were able to determine the tailshaft angle and the pinion angle?

i measured on the top of the driveshaft and on the bottom of the driveshaft in the smae places up closer to the TC output shaft, drive shaft only not on the yokes or ujoints. or the output shafts them selves.

i also measured the output shaft on the rear axle and that is where i got 10* on the rear axle.

if these are not the correct places could you please tell me where to measure at?

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: drive shaft angles? what should they

ok a very simple drawing of what and where i measured.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

The top measurement does nothing for ya. The bottom measurement is only accurate if you're sure the diff housing above the pinion is perfectly flat and parallel with the pinion shaft beneath it.

I recommend placing your anglefinder on the ear of the slipyoke, right above the ujoint cup retaining clip. Make sure the ear of the slipyoke is on top of the tailshaft. Then do the same for the yoke attached to the pinion.

You need to do whatever is necessary to find the angle of the transfer case mainshaft (same as rear output) and the angle of the rear pinion shaft. These are the two that need to be as close to parallel as possible. Then we'll worry about getting that slipyoke far enough onto the tailshaft.

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

so is the red what you are talking about or the blue? LOL

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Measure the angle of the red.

On a side note, it's unlikely the ujoints on a XJ driveshaft would bind unless there is a LOT of lift. The extra length of an XJ Shaft over shafts in a SWB jeep help keep angles down.

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

ok Igot 74* on the output on the axle and 84* on the TC output shaft. jsut out of courisoty what are the stock specs?
now with those measurements what degree shims will I need?

 

[88Wrangles]

Just wondering, but it's 74* and 84* to what? if it's to being at 0* (horizontal) then your transfercase and transmission and engine would be sticking almost straight up in the air. And your diff. pinion would be pointing almost straight up too.

Are you sure it's not 6* for the t-case output shaft and 16* for your diff. output shaft??

I can't tell you the shims that you need, just trying to figure out the angles so someone else can help you.

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

RE: TJ water leak problem??????

that is jsut what I read on the angle finder thingy!! he he
i assume it would be angled to 90* (seings how the patrs are so close to a horizontal line.) I believe in your description you were thinking of a vertical line. so back to math class here!! subtraction, how do i do that stuff again?? LOL (J/K)
90-84 (for tc) =6* differnece between level
90-74(for axle)=16* difference between level
difference between the two is 10* but i dont think it will be that easy. maybe by cutting that number in half (10/2=5) meaning that I would need a 4-6* angle diffreence in the rear to properly adjust the pinion angles? MAYBE?? im lost in my own thinking again!! LMAO

 

[TwistedCU]

This angle, that angle......


drop the TC another 1/2" :lol:

 

[XJNick]

Hi,

Why don't you just get the driveshaft lengthened??? I got my rear driveshaft lengthened after my EV conversion, as the splined end of the rear driveshaft was not slipping far enough into the transfer case slip yoke, and my U-joint angles were too steep (almost to the point of binding up :shock. I took the driveshaft to a specialty shop, it cost $100 to lengthen. Thus this was much cheaper than a SYE conversion.

But note that before I had my driveshaft lengthened, I did install 2* shims under the rear leaf springs. I didn't use larger shims because using shims that are too large can also cause problems. The combonation of shims and lengthened driveshaft solved my problems for less than $150 :mrgreen:

-Nick :!:

 

[88Wrangles]

He already said he didn't want to spend the money right now to do that. And, I wouldn't spend the money to have it lengthened unless I was 100% sure that driveline is in excellent shape.

I'm still confused about the angles though. 0* and 180* is horizontal. 90* and 270* is vertical.

Try what Twisted said, drop the T-case a little more.

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

Tire Balancing

88Wrangles first off I have to appoligze to you. I should have taken the damn driveshaft off (while measuring) and payed a little more attention to the angle finder that I was using. (one size dos not fit all!! LOL)
the correct measurments are now (drum roll?)
tc output shaft 4-5*
rear pinion 9-10*

 

[88Wrangles]

haha, no need to apologize. Just trying to make it clear for someone who might be of help (which is not me...I know nothing about what the angles should be or the "correct" way to figure out what shims are right!!).

 

[Junkpile]

RE: goodyear mtr or what kind of tire 33x12

I don't think you are going to get around this with your current shaft length. Shimming the axle would correct any excessive Ujoint operating angles, but you simply need a longer shaft (or slipyoke, but that would be harder on the output shaft and joints too). The more you tip the pinion up, the more likely you are going to be to pull the slipyoke out when you experience spring wrap. It sounds like a broken Tcase output waiting to happen. I think I would lengthen the shaft before I tried a longer yoke. Lengthening a shaft is more expensive than shortening one. You could go pick up a longer shaft at the junkyard for probably $10 and then around here you could have it shortened for $30-50. Like posted earlier lengthening one costs $80-100+. I've never lengthened one. You can find a longer(and possibly stronger) one and have it shortened for less money.

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

RE: Jeepless Again

It sounds like a broken Tcase output waiting to happen.

I agree and so does my stepfather (feild mechanic for a reputable oil feild company) and we have decided to go aginst any other options except that sye and cv driveshaft route. very expensive but is going to make all the difference when I am close to done!! hehe. I figure I am going to have to drive the 87' xj around for about a month or so till we can come up withthe funds to get her back on the road again. but it is something that has to be done because obvisouly hearing any vibes means that some sort of damages has been done to the output shaft on the transfercase. so that is jsut going to need to be pulled out and replaced with something a little better.
I have also been thinking about just dropping it down some to say maybe 3" but that isnt going to solve any problmes. I am jsut going to have to suck it up and get the SYE!!

TO EVERYBODY THAT HELPED ME:
I just want to take a quick moment and say thank you very much for all of your help and soupport. I know I have been a bit hardheaded but it was for a good cause!! LOL

 

[TwistedCU]

Show your appreciation by reading this thread :lol:
http://www.jeepz.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=326008

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

Show your appreciation by reading this thread :lol:
http://www.jeepz.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=326008

LMAO
ok ok ok, i will work on that later tonight!! LOL

 

[AKASHAJEEP]

RE: Cherokee speed sensor

should be changed now. letz see