Aux. Light switch placement?

Joopin

Super Moderator
1049355

Well I have been DYING to buy something for my jeep with a gift certificate I got for christmas... it was only 50 bucks so I ended up ordering a pair of the Light Mounting Brackets that is mounted on the windshield hinge, and I got a pair of 6" off road lights too. All the stuff comes with them but my question is Where is a good place to mount the new light switches/switch? Under the dash? Thats the only place I can think of... I also plan on getting a light bar sometime so there will eventually be more switches... Any Ideas would be great!!! Thanks ~Joopin[addsig]
 

1049371

on mine, there is an open spot where a switch could go. its on the right of the steering colum, next to the rear defroster switch.

Reggie[addsig]
 
1049381

drilling holes under your dash gauges and putting toggle switches there is a nice touch... put one switch under each gauge... that allows 5 switches total.... and at night... you will know where they are, because you will know which gauge to reach under.... its a good look too if you do it clean.[addsig]
 
1049402

Another option would be to put them across the front- Thats where I have mine- kinda cool to go across and flip all the switches turning them all on/off. Just another idea- Just make sure its in a spot thats easy to get to and convenient also- Nothin worse than having to search around for the switch when you want to turn it on!![addsig]
 

1049438

Thanks guys, all good ideas... installing them today. Hey do you think a KC 6" light cover will fit a non KC 6" light? Just wondering since the KC stone shields are so much cooler looking. Thanks again![addsig]
 
1049490

a 6" cover is made to fit a 6" light... i would think it would work for ya there[addsig]
 
1049554

If they are the 'soft' covers, they should fit; my friend used a generic 6" light in a KC light housing, so I would assume that even a harder plastic cover should work too, even if it doesn't a little TLC should make it work-[addsig]
 

1049589

A little input.

When I installed extra lights, that had covers, I found out the hard way that riders like to play with switches. Fortunatly these switches only work with the keys on. Unfortunatly the cool covers hide the fact that the spot lights are on until you see smoke and flames

(Those lights get so hot the melt the covers very fast)

After the first set of covers burned I decided to install a master switch for all powered extras. I ran the power first to a aircraft switch, on the lower left dash and then to the spotlight on-off switch. I also did the same for gps and cb, just to be safe.

This might sound a little overkill until you see flames while driving down the highway.



Let's just call this KID PROOFING.
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NOTE: The switch under the dash is a three way toggle. Left, turns on a KC used for serious rear lighting and a in cab buzzer (That tells me it's on) and Right, turns on a auxilary fan if needed for rock crawling. Center is off.

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[addsig]
 
1049595

Good Idea Morgster... I installed a kill switch for the entire jeep (for security reasons) I will just hook up all the other switches to that one. Thanks for the info guys... ~Joopin[addsig]
 
1049649

Joopin, I'd forget about getting a light bar. You won't be happy with the way they illuminate. To install a light bar, you have to drill somewhat big holes into your windsheild framethe for the wires and the mounting hardware. These holes become cancer to your windsheild frame!
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They will eventually leak no matter how well you seal them up, or much siicon you use. One of the first aftermarket accessories I put on my jeep was a 4 lamp light bar. (20+yrs ago now) sure it looked kool, but it's functionatility was very poor! When all the lamps were on, I couldn't see out the windsheild! Problem was, there was so much white, bright light emminating from the 4 KC style (150w) lamps that anything, dust, moisture, bugs, mud, etc...on the glass reflected the light, effectivly blocking view.

Another thing to consider with a light bar is it's gonna sit up a few inches higher than the top. This could be a problem if trail riding and a low clearance is needed.

If your like me, when I'm off road ( summer time) my windshield is laid down 90% of the time. The light bar will do no good with the windsheild down.

Biggest issue is though the damage that WILL come if drill into thethe frame to mount the thing! Water will eventually rot the inside's out! I know this, been there done that. My windshield leaks as if it wern't there now.

A better location for the lamps is the bumper, the fenders, or at the hinge's. Anyplace below your line of vision.













[addsig]
 

1049675

First things first... Morgster, where did you get those switches?? I like the covers on them alot... Good placement for the switches too. My lights came with a really stupid looking rocker switch, I thought it was going to come with a toggle switch like yours. I can still get one from work but no cover. JPRTROY, thanks for the advice on the lightbar issue, Although the lightbar I was thinking of getting was the CARR Folding Rotabar which has 3 positions, normal back and forward. So if the windshield is down it is still very functional. I think you still have to drill holes in the windshield though. Maybe they will make one that folds AND bolts onto the hinge.

[addsig]
 
1049741

Joopin:



"Red Toggle Switch Covers" Part# SUM-G-3902C $9.99 ea (Cover only)

"Covered Toggle Switches" Part# NOS-15606 $25.95 ea (Switch w/Cover)

http://www.summitracing.com/ (800) 230-3030



You can also find them at electronic stores, sold as cover only or with a switch, usually more expensive.



NOTE: There is a difference in the quality of the switches. You get what you pay for.
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[addsig]
 
1049744

If you want alot of switches, go to Allied Electronics Do a search for switches. One company they carry has really cool HUGE switches by Carling Switch. Also normal size ones.



Morgster; you should get stickers for the switch covers that say "ARMED" and "SAFE"[addsig]
 

1049748

bigT

The design of these switches simple:

Lift the cover and flip the switch it's on. (Good to go)

If the covers down it's off. (The cover shuts off the switch)
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[addsig]
 
1049764

That Carr light bar ain't that bad lookin, but, ya still need to drill the frame! Water, CANCER for the farme. The other thing to look at, I touched on before. The lights that mount to it. The plane of the bulb's (front of the bulbs) extedns over the glass. When turned on, if the windshield glass is not spotless clean, you'll see the dirt!. There used to be shields available for the old KC style lamps. these shields would be installed under each lamp, and extend beyond the front of the lamp maybe 9 or 10" looked goofey as hell, (like tiny scoops under each light) but they protected the glass from the light, allowing one to actually see. Not sure if thses things are still available or not, I wouldn't let my jeep be caught rolled off a clift with these things on her.

If these people at Carr an move the lamps back behind the plane of the windsheild glass, then I think you'd be happy with it. Have you trid this: taking a handheld spotlight holding it (or have someone hold) in a position where an off-road lamp would be positioned on a light bar and turn the thing on? Basically mimicing a light on a light bar. If, after doing so, your happy with how the illumination is, go for it. I think you'll be surprized though.

give it a try. I really hate seeing someone ruin a windsheild with a lightbar! ut hey, that's just me.

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[addsig]
 
1049773

That's cool. I meant like on a fighter plane. Where the switch cover is labeled. I thought it'd be kinda funny to make it look like a fighter plane switch to fire missiles.[addsig]
 
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