Alright I need a Checklist.

[L33TJ33P]

:-D I sank lil'bit for the first time yesterday. I need a checklist of what fluids to check/change after having her sitting "headlight deep" in what I thought was normal ruts. Needless to say I have found that the doors are not water tight and my floorboard was filled to the bottom of the seats.

What I noticed after getting pulled out.

Clutch seamed a little soft but tightened up this morning.
an odd chirping noise from the engine compartment
Power seams a little low.

I need to change my Diff fluid anyway but should I go ahead and change:
Trannny fluid
Transfer Fluid
Diff Fluid
What else??

thanks

 

[MerkL]

I had a chirping like noise right before my transmission went out. I'd change the fluid in it, you might have got some in their like I did.

 

[Snitty]

maybe clutch fluid... all transmission and transfercase fluid... differential lube...

 

[jeepin916]

i would change anything that was sumerged under that stuff. i would even go and change the oil. you never know what may have splashed in also take off your distributor cap and rotor and make sure it is dry inside that can cause a loss of power, spray in some WD40 and clean out the cap.

 

[Tug-n-pull]

WTB TRANSFER CASE

Dude you got the ol Black and Tan Broken in now. That's really cool! Stick em good at least once a year just for stinks and giggles. Only thing I can't see any one mention changeing now is your shorts. heheheehehehehhehe tug

 

[L33TJ33P]

Ok so, when changing my Diff fluid, I am doing full synth. I need new Seals and everything correct?? Any suggestions on what type to use.

Now to the Clutch, how do I drain the clutch for new fluid? I am feeling a little grit in the pedal when depressing clutch.

Transmition is easy but I think I am going to have to order Synchromesh on-line or that other stuff which I can't remember the name of.

X-fer case?? How dow I change this fluid? Do I use the same fluid as the Trans?

Oil change is easy.

My belt seams to squeak a little now though should I replace that also or just spray it down with water till it stops?

 

[GreenReaper93]

off road video

There should be two bolts on the left side of the T-case. Easy enough. I think you use Auto Trans. fluid for the T-case.

 

[hi_c]

Yes, ATF for the T-case, and GreenReaper is right, there are 2 bolts on the driver's, BACK side of the T-case. As far as gasket goes for the diffs... just get some good liquid gasket sealer from your local autoparts store and be liberal with it. Anything that oozes out you can shave clean with a knife. To bleed the clutch, you'll need a friend to depress the pedal while you open the valve on the passenger side of the transmission. Use a hose to an empty bottle and your work area will remain clean. Personally, I wouldn't do full synthetic on the diff housings, but it's up to you. Question is, are you gonna change it every time you submerge your axles? If not, then make a good gasket seal 1 time, fill with synth. and don't change it everytime you get sunk.

I would agree with the distributor cap thing and changing your oil. Wouldn't you rather spend $50 on easy maintenance than thousands on new drivetrain?

C

ps. hope you took pictures!

 

[L33TJ33P]

I took Video Editing it down so that I can post it. I am changing all fluids, I am about due anyway. the Clutch just feels gritty I am thinking there is some dirt on a linkage somewhere, but I think that getting under there and checking it will be good either way. Then again when I push the clutch it moves something in the transmition right?? it could be the same crud in the trans causing the gritty feeling, or am I way off base?

:::edit:::
I also plan to start changing my Diffs about every 12K so I may want to use a gaskette.

 

[Tug-n-pull]

Go to Autozone get Pennzoil Synromesh for the transmission. Or order the Red Line off line but if you go to their web site you can most likely find it in a town the size of Atlanta. Other than name I think form all I have heard they are not that much better thant the other. and Synromesh is cheaper. The girt in th clutch is not likely in the fluid system at all as it is sealed. Just a hard part grit I am sure. I can not even see how you could get water into the clutch fluid sysem if you tried. Would not change that out myself. tug

 

[firemanharry]

I'd have to agree with Tug on the clutch fluid. As for the feeling of grit in the clutch/transmission I'd say run it and see if it stops. Besides everything else that's been mentioned I'd suggest checking the power steering fluid for milkiness - could cause problems down the road. 8)

 

[L33TJ33P]

Has anyone tried the Valvoline 75w-90 Synthetic gear oil? That is about all I can get my hands on down here in Atlanta. It should be about the same as MT-90. I may try it out and let you all know. it runs 9 bucks a quart UGH!!! but it is good for the whole driveline according to Napa and other autoparts places.

 

[currupt4130]

ive heard before never to depress the clutch when submerged and im not sure if thats true or not but supposedly it can open things up to disaster and if thats the case i wouldnt mess with it myself either unless you just wanted to redo your entire clutch system

 

[L33TJ33P]

line x procdure, costs and alternatives

The Fill bowl wasn't submerged but I don't know anyway to engage the gears other than grinding the heck out of them by slamming it into first with the gas pressed (so as not to choak it out) and suck water up the tail pipe. I will research that and see what I find.

 

[redrooster]

I would check the engine oil and all fluids. If the engine oil looks normal, not milky, then you are good. Open the fill plugs on your axles and see if they are milky (probably are). There is really no need to put synthetic in the axles unless it just makes you feel better. Check the transmissin fluid after it has set a while. If you pull the drain, the water will run out first. If it's not milky and no water runs out then you are probably ok.
As for the clutch, you probably have dirt in the pedal swing or mud in the bellhousing. Wait til it's cool and see if you can rinse it out.
Better hang that carpet out to dry too.
It's a lot of work to have a little fun... ain't it?

 

[redrooster]

BTW If you plan on doing that frequently then you may want to run your vent lines for the axles up into the cab somewhere.
Like I was saying on another thread... axle seals are single lip which means they are meant to hold the oil in..not keep water out. I wish I could find my old National oil seal book to look up some numbers for the double lip seal. I always try to steer clear of the deep stuff and still somehow manage to get water in the axles despite having long vent lines andtrying not to linger in the creek crossings.

 

[L33TJ33P]

typical

I need to figure out why no one has Diff gasketts for 99+ TJ's. Napa doesn't carry anything after 98 for the Wrangler. do I just use the blue silaca stuff?

 

[Junkpile]

I wouldn't waste the money on synthetic for the diffs. If you do much mudding you'll be changing that stuff often, and it gets expensive.

 

[L33TJ33P]

well, I don't deep water too awful much. This is the first time I have had to chnge it in 20K so, maybe it will not be too awful. Plus the Fluid is already bought

 

[TwistedCU]

I need to figure out why no one has Diff gasketts for 99+ TJ's. Napa doesn't carry anything after 98 for the Wrangler. do I just use the blue silaca stuff?

There wasn't a gasket in my D35 when I changed it's oil. Yes just seal it, but make sure you clean both surfaces very well and don't get any dirt in yer gears! :wink: