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Here are parts from previous posts that may give you some ideas for a fix:
These were for a fix on a 4.2 carb motor, but any info is better than none.
Past Post#1:
Over the years I have had a lot of sleepless nights just trying to find my illusive leaks. In most all cases the culprit was something very small. If I took the position of major surgery every, or any time I had a Jeep problem, I would be broke.
My 1989YJ 4.2 had a leak dripping onto the exhaust crossover pipe and back across the transfer case that drove me nuts. (“Rear seal $200.00 Said the mechanic). No, it was oil in the air cleaner overflowing through a rivet hole and down along the block past the rear seal area onto the pipe. Once I found the leak, it was another chore figuring out why oil was in the air cleaner in the first place. Another Jeep mechanic I asked had said “Bad rings or valves and a rebuild was in order†again wrong. The actual reason was a small orifice in the PCV system needed to be sprayed with gumout to clean excess sludge. If I had taken the mechanics advice, the cost would have been thousands. Actual cost to fix four years ago was $1.88.
In conclusion, 95+% of my major Jeep problems have been minor fixes.]
Past Post#2:
Regarding oil in the air cleaner.
I have been reading this same topic from forum to forum. Everything from removing valve covers to rebuilding motors because of warn or broken parts. Here is a suggestion from a Jeeper that had and fixed that same problem. I now have well over 225,000+ miles on my daily driven, rock crawling, 1989 YJ. (With no oil in the air cleaner) . With help from the one non-salesperson at Jeep, I fixed the problem with a $1.88 can of gumout. With the engine running you can lift the pcv valve out of the valve cover and put your finger over the end and you should have (While reving the engine)some serious suction. If not, the pcv valve does sometime clog, (When you shake it, it should rattle) To clean he suggested spraying with gumout or replacing (if necessary). But the culprit is usually inside the hose that runs from the pcv valve to the intake manifold. If you removed the air cleaner you would find a split in that (approx ½ inch outside diameter) hose. It connects two hoses together. Inside is a small orifice (approx 1/8 inch inside diameter) that gets clogged very easily. (Trying to remove the two pieces usually ruins the orifice)(It gets brittle)
Before you remove anything, with the engine running, spray gumout into the pcv valve or remove it and spray directly into the hose (keeping the rpms up, so the engine won’t stall) Depending on the severity of the clog a little or a lot of gumout will be used. (Sometimes a piece of piano wire is needed to unblock the orifice) You should notice immediately a difference in the amount of suction at the pcv valve. Reinstall the valve, shut of the motor, open and clean the excess oil from inside the air cleaner. Replace, if necessary, the air filter (this is a good time to install a K&N filter) Remove the little filter, spray it with gumout, replace it and put back all the other parts. This completely fixed my problem. Two years to find and $1.88 and five minutes to fix.
Note: With this line clogged, the pressure inside the valve cover forces oil up through the rear hose into the air cleaner. And with so much oil inside and leaking out of the air cleaner, it leaves room for shady mechanics to suggest some serious $$$ repairs.
This info might not be correct for your 4.o with fuel injection, but should make you think or it might help someone else.
[addsig]
